UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

25m.

Rockfax Description
The arete is tackled up a thin crack, starting on its right. The top section gives fine and exciting climbing but the start is chossy. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook. Includes bits of the trad route The Prow. 11/Jun/1995.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
brian watson 10 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nice in the crack and arete, care needed until then bit chossy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice in the crack and arete, care needed until then bit chossy!
John Alcock 7 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Well worthwhile, as Brian says a harder version of Pregnant Pause and should clean up as much with traffic.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well worthwhile, as Brian says a harder version of Pregnant Pause and should clean up as much with traffic.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking the King

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Coastguard South)

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