Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete of the great flake is a popular line with some excellent positions on the arete. Start up some awkward ledges. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 2002

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland for the beginner (lead climbs).

martin one 04/Oct Lead rpt
with Lucy
Steve27 06/Sep Lead
tom_lewis89 04/Sep Lead O/S
with Katie Arnold
Hidden 18/Aug Lead
Hidden 15/Aug Lead
ChloeJ 06/Aug Lead dog

Trickier start but really fun aerate near the top. Great view from the top

Hidden 03/Aug Lead
s1362083 02/Aug Lead O/S
mark4344 16/Jul Lead
with lorraine
kushan.vyas 11/Jul Lead O/S

Very overgrown on some sections. Approach is a bit tricky.

katherinesydney 05/Jul Lead O/S

really good route at the grade. finish is exciting.

The Ivanator 05/Jul Lead O/S

Wonderful Arete high on the route, great exposure and positions for the grade.

NikkiClimbaCrag 04/Jul Lead O/S
with Rob
dansimkin 28/Jun Lead O/S
royle883 15/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun Lead rpt
David Staples 10/Jun Lead rpt
hlburns ?/Jun Lead O/S
hzilla ?/Jun -
David Staples 28/May Lead rpt
ewanjp 25/May Lead rpt

Love this climb - wonderful on the arete

with alicec
alicec 25/May 2nd
Hidden 17/May Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 17/May Lead O/S
with Ed Green
jungle 16/May Lead O/S
n.fionda 16/May 2nd
David Staples 30/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Apr Lead rpt
David Staples 19/Apr Lead O/S
Sian Carter 13/Apr 2nd
rhys mence 13/Apr Lead O/S


Gustav 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Joe
jamie ward 21/Mar Lead O/S
with Marcus Harvey
Chris Sansum 21/Mar Lead O/S
with Ruth White
jrccrosby 15/Mar Lead O/S
Theeni 15/Mar Lead O/S
with Joseph
Stanners 07/Mar Lead O/S

Cant believe this doesn't have any stars in my guide. Good lead from Andy. Easily a 2 star route !

with Andy G
CreepingExcellence. 07/Mar Lead O/S
brian watson 14/Feb Lead rpt
with Sophie Nunn, anne marie sheppard
Sophie Nunn 14/Feb Lead O/S
with annmarie, Brian
Hidden 05/Feb Lead O/S
Denzil Guy 23/Jan Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Steph
AaronBosley 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 TR O/S
robbo99 16/Aug/14 Lead β
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
rustyfishhook 15/Jul/14 Lead
professorcobra 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Philoosh 16/May/14 Lead O/S
kieranbowen 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
VFR Tom 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
richy85 14/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Paul
Paul Eckton 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with steve read
Chris dyer 08/Apr/14 Lead dnf

we both couldn't work out the next move after the fourth bolt

with Jack Hunter
Dino Dave 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Dave AMC
danimal88 ?/Nov/13 2nd
with charlie
dan gibson 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with alley
magsb 04/Oct/13 2nd
with John Roberts
Phil_Hall_97 12/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Phil Jones, Chris Haines
dom94 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Huguet
alan.phobos 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dave, Dan
Rafal Malczyk 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Jenei
DanTT 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Amazing! Crux to get to the arete, then the best climb ever. Feels exposed at the top but amazing leanbacks.

with Dave Clayton, Alan Campbell
Legs 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/13 2nd
armand_dude ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
NickSayers ?/Aug/13 Lead
lukerathmell 22/Jul/13 Lead
with Anthony Rathmell, Niki Rathmell, Rachel Bennett
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
minstrel nips,sean 04/Jul/13 Lead dnf
rustyfishhook 04/Jul/13 Lead β
with sean
kate tarrant ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
DaveMo 30/Jun/13 Lead
with Simon Woodcock
jwpil 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ben
dereke12000 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Good up on the arete

with Rich
Dan_F 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Ben jones
dobby 200 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Gyles, Jo
georgenvk 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
matt_read 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Ashford
trannumrahim 18/May/13 Lead
with Ewan Panter
Dan_F 05/May/13 Lead β

Good fun easy climbing..

Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 20/Oct/12 Lead
with Sarah Flint
Hidden 07/Oct/12 Lead rpt
JuneBob 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
tradguy 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Mark Hazell, philippa wiffen
tomB 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Juliette
tobydunford 17/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
candicegallab 11/Aug/12 Lead
marcthebeat 11/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Candice Gallab
coneco 05/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Peter Dickinson
Steve954 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Love it!!

with Richard
Hidden 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead
David Staples ?/Jul/12 -
Ali.B 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Really nice warm up route. Harder than 4+ though

Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
SenorVivo 04/Jun/12 2nd
TiffTiff 31/May/12 Lead rpt
with Sam Leach
joshchalke 27/May/12 Lead O/S
tomshanti 27/May/12 Lead β
with Becky, Brad Fry, Josh Chalke
surfer38 26/May/12 Lead β

Lead this climb after a number of others in our party had tried (some succeeded). Excellent and varied climbing. Only the bottom ledges that are slightly grassy stop this being a 3 star route.

RichardDavidson69 26/May/12 Lead dnf

Got half way then got scared !! I should have top roped first..

with Chloe Davidson
adamjeffs 05/May/12 Lead O/S
mishtu 05/May/12 Lead
bradfry ?/May/12 Lead O/S
philhaigh 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead
Gem Minihan 04/Apr/12 Lead dog
Tobbsie 04/Apr/12 Lead dog
samfayers 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
ElBarto 31/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Partner abandoned the route and I web up to retrieve the gear then came back off.

martin one 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with jeremy
Trippinjester 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
rustyfishhook 18/Mar/12 Lead β

Fucking Epic! Excellent for its grade, whoever bolted this knows what climbers want. Will return with more virgins!

Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
Semtex 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 TR rpt
petecox84 ??/2012 -
Duncan Turner 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with stu
Danny Crump 23/Oct/11 Lead
onlyfoddington 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt

did a very direct start, but later got perhaps a little friendly with the arete

risby 16/Oct/11 Lead β
missxandrabee 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Dave
gibsond 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
cdpuk 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

If I've got the right route, book says 15m but I'd estimate 22m from what was left after descent. Has the lower off been raised since the the 2005 Rockfax?

KLucy 19/Aug/11 2nd
dmaldonado 07/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Sam Jones
Steve954 06/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Great route

with Nigel, Andy
coneco 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Majid
TiffTiff 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Grace
m.alexander 26/Jun/11 -
lawsy_boy1 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S

absolutely love this route

pedro.silva 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great climb. Felt very exposed with wind and water from nearby "water fall".

with Caz & Fred
Bcrich01 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Dave
gidmord 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Horton
Hidden 26/Apr/11 -
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
grimpeuse 24/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
banks 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Max Granger
paulnc 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Flic
Hidden 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead
ali macphee 08/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
natalio 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
Jim Gaffney 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with George Swadling
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
lukerathmell 16/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Fenwick
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead
drysori 22/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Nov/10 Lead rpt
DrJon 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
lewiz 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
benscarter 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Simon Forman
Rupey 09/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 13/Aug/10 Lead
with ben
benscarter 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

can't believe the guise gave this no stars! scrabbly start but the arete is magic!

erbridger 02/Aug/10 Lead dog

First arete climb, tended to use face only but adapted towards the end. Still not used to exposure, especially spray from waterfall and wind.

pdhammond 25/Jul/10 Lead
erbridger 15/Jul/10 Lead
Saurus 20/Jun/10 Lead dog

A cheeky little start but once on the actual face then real fun. Great little (more like tiny)/slightly overhanging middle section which you just need to commit to! Once through have a good shake out and enjoy the schweet arete to the right creating fantastic holds all the way up - The harder end of F4 indeed...

Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

A very dubious "warm up".

with Liz
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
steve taylor 30/May/10 -
with Steve Williams
Matt Smith 26/May/10 Lead O/S

Guidebook says generous bolting, I think that may be a hint of Rockfax sarcasm as it didn't feel generous. Climbing was fun though, slightly hard for a 4+ in some places.

barfani chita 20/May/10 Lead O/S

The middle section is a bit of a challenge, but just loved the arete at the top! Enjoy!

with Saurus
barfani chita 15/May/10 2nd dog
with Saurus
MikeB1 14/May/10 Lead
martin one 08/May/10 Lead O/S
with Eric
Snowboy 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Good adventurous route, don't forget to use the right hand!

Richard Horn 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead
montymoo 13/Mar/10 Lead
with Gareth
dale1968 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Ian JL 01/Jan/10 Lead O/S
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
luke2442 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead β
dmaldonado 31/Oct/09 Lead dnf
with Tom Withers
Hidden 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S
drewclimber 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with gordon
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah
onlyfoddington 13/Sep/09 Lead
sonic46 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Danny Harrow
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
AnniH 02/Aug/09 Lead
with Tony B
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
KDhruev ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
lukewilliams 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Steve954 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Great route, a few interesting moves and great views. due to the height.

with Andy
rd20 21/Mar/09 Lead β
with Brandon
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead
Al Davidson 28/Feb/09 Lead dog

bottom bit not so nice, but it got better and better as it went along. Steep, varied, juggy when needed, and a fantastic feeling of exposure on the flake arete at the top.

with Lisa Woo
kim.mulji 16/Nov/08 Lead β

found it hard, but amazing climb!

with Jayne
rd20 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Martin
jayne-bravo 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Kim (nst)
TomWebber 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
tdudley 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
overexposure 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S

My first climb on Portland. Ledges at the beginning tiresome, but from then on a pleasure. Becomes a nice thin flake at the top, delicate footwork in places. Reasonable bolt spacing.

with OL
trev_f 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
leigh 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Ed
KarlH 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Zygoticgema 30/Aug/08 2nd
with KarlH
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead
Chubster 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Yvette Breacher
FrostyWebb 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Hannes
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead
Ant Mace 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Lloyd Cowdry
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
nevostevo 21/May/08 Lead O/S
with andy
Hidden 21/May/08 Lead rpt
jl 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon
Zoomer 25/Apr/08 Lead

Steep and a bit spaced on the bolts. Superb!

Jules 210681 25/Apr/08 2nd
Neil Tucker ?/Apr/08 Lead
with Andras Pinter
roc n run 23/Mar/08 TR
with H
breed 20/Mar/08 Lead O/S
AlexD 17/Feb/08 Lead
with Joe
joeurwin 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with alex
breed 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
cayteye 10/Feb/08 TR
tradguy 10/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Alex More ??/2008 Lead
with KDhruev
Moodo 23/Dec/07 Lead
with Mart rich
Jonathan Emett 21/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Topsy Turvy 21/Dec/07 Lead
tobydunford 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Humpty Dangler 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Getting on the route was an uncomfortable squirm onto a dirty ledge, followed by a scramble onto foliage, but from then on pure joy. Gaining the outside of the arete was amazing. Glance around the back; it's thin like a knife blade, providing the best hand holds ever encountered and a straightforward, if sustained final third. The fact that this route doesn't merit any stars in the guidebook speaks volumes for the quality of the climbing here at Portland, because this route is better than many with stars elsewhere.

with Luke
ASchwirtz 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Nikki
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead
rrrock! ?/Sep/07 Lead

partner clipped bolts 2 - 3 past the shitty grassy shelf - there on an excellent climb

AsleepOnBelay 06/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, bolts seemed generous to me, the fantastic exposure makes it feel less protected. Careful on the low ledge though, bits can come off in your hands.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 05/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Jack R-N ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Marti999 21/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Eoinparker ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with iain ward, james easterbrook
Hidden ?/Jul/07 -
vertigo 12/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Very crumbly low down but solid high up. Nice finishing ledge for a sandwhich before you sort out your belay.

markju 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S

My First experience of sport climbing,, had a good weekend, thanks to Roger

with Roger
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
alexrp 26/May/07 Lead

Enjoyble climbing up the arete. Must be worth a star or two.

with Lee R
MarkRyder 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Alex
jw231 ?/May/07 2nd rpt
with gfoster
eppa 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

nice arete, but if anything seemed a tiny bit more run out than any of the other routes done today - not "generously bolted"! Found the upper section fiddly for my feet.

dougross 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Final climb of the trip a nice, relatively easy 22m 4+ lead, with what seems like a small field just after the start.

with Simon W
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/07 Lead
jw231 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
108bez108 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Steve
kevinknights 03/Feb/07 Lead dnf

backed off at 5th bolt - foot hurt stopping balance! Cracking route though

with Lee
Hidden ??/2007 -
andrea83 ??/2007 Lead O/S

My first ever lead climb!!!

Hidden 11/Nov/06 Lead rpt
sam coward 15/Oct/06 Lead rpt
with Tom
clipskipper 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Pleasant and interesting 4+. Not that generously bolted, despite what the book says. Definately worth the trip. Don't underestimate the start.

with armchair climbing
Hidden 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
camillaclifford 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with mrtom
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
vet 19/Aug/06 TR O/S
with Nick
JPGR 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Scott
tradguy 28/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/06 Lead
timharrison ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 11/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
timharrison 11/Feb/06 2nd
sam coward 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Helen
django ?/Jan/06 Lead
with Rob Snell
Peter Swift ??/2006 TR O/S
with sue
Peter Swift ??/2006 TR dog
with sue
Hidden ??/2006 -
michael burrows 01/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Rebecca Buckenham ?/Oct/05 Lead dog

one fall

with Andre
Wilbur ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Caine
viking ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden 17/May/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/04 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AshleyLong, Hidden, Hidden, underitall, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set