UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete of the great flake is a popular line with some excellent positions on the arete. Start up some awkward ledges to get to the good stuff on the arete itself. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 2002.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
clipskipper 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Nice line and interesting for the grade. 25m though, not 15m.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice line and interesting for the grade. 25m though, not 15m.
Michael Simpson 12 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: it is a bit scrappy at the start and the rock needs care but wow! what a great second half: beautiful exposed climbing with some absorbing rock features. I agree with the first comment one of the best at this grade I have done.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: it is a bit scrappy at the start and the rock needs care but wow! what a great second half: beautiful exposed climbing with some absorbing rock features. I agree with the first comment one of the best at this grade I have done.
viking 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: very loose - lost one foot hold and one hand hold on the way up this...rubbish. Warm up on Sper the Fern instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very loose - lost one foot hold and one hand hold on the way up this...rubbish. Warm up on Sper the Fern instead.
Wilbur 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: very very loose. Also, it's never 15 metres - more like 25 metres in length..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very very loose. Also, it's never 15 metres - more like 25 metres in length..
Phil Anderson 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Is this really only 15m? From memory, I'm sure I almost reached the limit of my 50m rope on this climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is this really only 15m? From memory, I'm sure I almost reached the limit of my 50m rope on this climb.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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