Dorset > Blacknor Central >
 
Gaze of the Gorgon** 6a+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Niagara Wall
 
Sniffin' Glue >>
[Climbing Gaze Of The Gorgon on Portland, and getting very tired at the top!, 3 kb]28m. A major crack-line that is both strenuous and sustained. © ROCKFAX
A very long crack climb with spaced bolts. Warning from user: "DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE. IT IS ALL FALLING APART. 3RD BOLT IS IN 'ROCK' THAT IS NOT ATTACHED TO THE WALL" - Please email if this changes.
FA. Tim Dunsby 3.10.92. Accidentally also claimed as as Vaziu by Damian Cook in 1995 03/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Photo: Climbing Gaze Of The Gorgon on Portland, and getting very tired at the top! © Rob Laird
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 70 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

climbed the first 3 bolts on the route to the right. This makes it safe-ish, if a little unnerving, although not that much worse than the starts of many other classics in the area. The crack is fantastic, and well worth the start. Take a helmet!
Jonathan Emett - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with tomski

Hidden - May/13

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/13

thomb - Lead - 21/Apr/13 with Gareth, Tom Syrett

Very loose in the lower section!
DorsetGareth - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Tom B

tsyrett - Lead dog - 21/Apr/13

Loose at the bottom but nice climbing in the second half. 60m rope needed. Didn't see warnings here before attempting.
James Gomez - Lead dog - 04/Jun/12 with Seema Desai, Andy Levitt

SenorVivo - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with James Gomez

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/May/12

Wow - had no idea about the warnings about this climb before we did it. actually really enjoyed it, first route of the day, was super careful climbing up the first section and then quite enjoyed the lovely lay-back up the second half, between the terrifying run-outs that is. probably best not to climb it again though..
natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with Dan, Be

Aborted after stepping onto a microwave sized block just below the secong bolt which disapeared under my feet! Luckily I was holding onto a jug at the time and was able to hang on. Definately one to avoid!
JamesBrowning - Lead dnf - 06/May/12 with Alice

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Mar/12

Hidden - TR - 24/Mar/12

Try traversing in from the route to the right to avoid the looser section.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Dougie

how are people giving this route any stars, the bottom is crazy loose! bag of ....!
mlg678 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11

Lower half extremely unstable.A very risky proposition!!!
tinker69 - 07/Aug/11

Agree with previous comment that route is falling apart. Third bolt appeared to be in a detached block of rock! Retreated hastily
lewiz - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/11 with Kirsten Donovan

Very much caught out by the crux near the top, just a little spooked by the setting too! great route though, will go back for it. Definitely feels exposed and run out for the grade!
tom.ireson - Lead dog - 24/Jul/11 with Sarah Procter

ROUTE IS FALLING APART. DO NOT ATTEMPT. VERY DANGEROUS.
Jus - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/11

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with Rosea

Rosea Day - Lead β - Mar/11

PeterDawson - TR O/S - 2011

Arm Spazum!
tomB - Lead dog - 04/Sep/10 with Juliette

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - Jul/10

Alex More - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with keiha

must go back and complete on lead
KDhruev - TR - 27/Sep/09 with Alex More

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Aug/09

hippo99 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - TR dog - 05/Jul/09

Luke d - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

danm - Lead - 02/May/09 with Sion

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09

Rob Kennard - 15/Mar/09 with Jane Weir

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - Feb/09

Jane Weir - Lead - 2009

nealh - Lead - 2009

trev_f - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Mick Ward

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Rich

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with John Vet

nawface - Lead - 2008

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07 with Ben Smith

not difficult, but very tiring. had to rest at top section
Rob Laird - Lead dog - 14/Apr/07

timharrison - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - TR O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Tim

One rest (all in the mind)
silhouette - Lead dog - Apr/07 with Mark

Paz - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/07 with TS

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/06

Julia Chatterton - 2nd - 07/Oct/06 with Will

a_radiohead_fan - Oct/06

Alex Been - Lead β - Jul/06

Dorset - 2nd - Jul/06

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/05

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Jan/05

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Jul/03

AlexD - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/03

Richard White - 2000

jasper11 - 2000

FA trad
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 03/Oct/92 with Tim Dunsby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
armand_dude, Graham Booth, kateg2009, Jaime Mitchell, Jeremy Crampin, Ash85, Hidden, fleapitfan, Hidden, Phil79, Hidden, Warren Earle, fivestar, jl

Voting
Total votes cast 52
hard 6b0 of 27
6b0 of 27
easy 6b3 of 27
hard 6a+6 of 27
6a+16 of 27
easy 6a+2 of 27
hard 6a0 of 27
6a0 of 27
easy 6a0 of 27
3 Stars3 of 25
2 Stars16 of 25
1 Star3 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....3 of 25
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead52 of 70 (74.3%)
Followed5 of 70 (7.1%)
Toproped5 of 70 (7.1%)
Unknown8 of 70 (11.4%)

'Climbed'24 of 70 (34.3%)
clean O/S28 of 70 (40.0%)
clean β5 of 70 (7.1%)
clean rpt1 of 70 (1.4%)
dogged10 of 70 (14.3%)
dnf2 of 70 (2.9%)