Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A major crackline that is both strenuous and sustained. © Rockfax
FA. Tim Dunsby 03/Oct/1992.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Work you fucking piece of shit , Dorset 2-3* 6a's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Joep88 | 23 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Would say it is 6a+, however it is: long, run-out, and exposed. All adds up to quite a route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Would say it is 6a+, however it is: long, run-out, and exposed. All adds up to quite a route. |
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| a_radiohead_fan | 9 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: easy peasy. never felt hard at all. and the bolts never felt spaced to me although compared to other routes on the island they actually are. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: easy peasy. never felt hard at all. and the bolts never felt spaced to me although compared to other routes on the island they actually are. |
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| Pete | 17 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did this for the second time on a cold January day, which probably made it feel harder, but I would still say top end 6a+ compared with others of a similar grade. Fantastic crack climb though. Almost a pity its bolted as you could lace it with gear and would make an excellent trad climb. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did this for the second time on a cold January day, which probably made it feel harder, but I would still say top end 6a+ compared with others of a similar grade. Fantastic crack climb though. Almost a pity its bolted as you could lace it with gear and would make an excellent trad climb. |
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| tomrainbow | 7 May, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bolts seemed very spaced on this route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The bolts seemed very spaced on this route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Stalker's Zone
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)