28m.

Rockfax Description
A major crack-line that is both strenuous and sustained. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Warning from user: "DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE. IT IS ALL FALLING APART. 3RD BOLT IS IN 'ROCK' THAT IS NOT ATTACHED TO THE WALL" - Please email if this changes.

FA. Tim Dunsby. Accidentally also claimed as as Vaziu by Damian Cook in 1995 03/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.


ClimberDateStyle
Marti999 23/Mar Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead β
Tru 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
royle883 15/Jun/15 Lead dog

Heavily vegetated until the crack but worth fighting through! Took a good whipper near the top

Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
mariannekhoo 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Sustained but not terribly strenuous. Really straightforward for 6a+.

with Nick Pike
leoch01 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Lorčne, Scott Bradshaw
Lorčne ?/Nov/14 Lead
Lorčne 21/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Gloria 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Lorčne
RKirke 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ryu
dan gibson 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
Graham Westbrook 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S
AlexD 07/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Seemed fine though had to play hunt the bolt for the 2nd and 3rd as they were hidden by grass! Start cleaned and rebolted in Dec 2011.

with Shamina
DaveB61 04/May/14 Lead dnf

Got to penultimate pitch but couldn't clip it. Took a big (20'?) fall, and banged my ankle and twisted my knee.

with Paul Trethaway
Jonathan Emett 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

climbed the first 3 bolts on the route to the right. This makes it safe-ish, if a little unnerving, although not that much worse than the starts of many other classics in the area. The crack is fantastic, and well worth the start. Take a helmet!

with tomski
Hidden ?/May/13 -
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead
thomb 21/Apr/13 Lead
with Gareth, Tom Syrett
DorsetGareth 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Very loose in the lower section!

with Tom B
tsyrett 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead dog
SenorVivo 04/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead rpt
natalietanzer 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Wow - had no idea about the warnings about this climb before we did it. actually really enjoyed it, first route of the day, was super careful climbing up the first section and then quite enjoyed the lovely lay-back up the second half, between the terrifying run-outs that is. probably best not to climb it again though..

with Dan, Be
JamesBrowning 06/May/12 Lead dnf

Aborted after stepping onto a microwave sized block just below the secong bolt which disapeared under my feet! Luckily I was holding onto a jug at the time and was able to hang on. Definately one to avoid!

with Alice
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR
Kevster 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Try traversing in from the route to the right to avoid the looser section.

dannyboy83 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie
dswansonlow 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mlg678 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

how are people giving this route any stars, the bottom is crazy loose! bag of ....!

tinker69 07/Aug/11 -

Lower half extremely unstable.A very risky proposition!!!

lewiz 30/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Agree with previous comment that route is falling apart. Third bolt appeared to be in a detached block of rock! Retreated hastily

tom.ireson 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

Very much caught out by the crux near the top, just a little spooked by the setting too! great route though, will go back for it. Definitely feels exposed and run out for the grade!

with Sarah Procter
Jus 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

ROUTE IS FALLING APART. DO NOT ATTEMPT. VERY DANGEROUS.

Hidden 24/Mar/11 Lead dog
mike lawrence? 24/Mar/11 Lead
with Colin
Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 Lead β
PeterDawson ??/2011 TR O/S
tomB 04/Sep/10 Lead dog

Arm Spazum!

with Juliette
Luke Dawson ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Alex More 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with keiha
KDhruev 27/Sep/09 TR

must go back and complete on lead

Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead dog
hippo99 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/09 TR dog
Luke d 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
LC ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
danm 02/May/09 Lead
with Sion
Richard Horn 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard 15/Mar/09 -
with Jane Weir
Matt Bennett ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
trev_f 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Ed Babs 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
nawface ??/2008 Lead
tobydunford 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
Rob Laird 14/Apr/07 Lead dog

not difficult, but very tiring. had to rest at top section

timharrison 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 07/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Tim
silhouette ?/Apr/07 Lead dog

One rest (all in the mind)

with Mark
Paz 14/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with TS
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Julia Chatterton 07/Oct/06 2nd
with Will
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Alex Been ?/Jul/06 Lead β
Dorset ?/Jul/06 2nd
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jan/05 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jan/05 2nd
brian watson ??/2005 Lead O/S
with scott titt, Tim Dunsby
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead β
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead β
AlexD 23/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Nigel Coe 03/Oct/92 2nd

FA trad

with Tim Dunsby
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dsefton1403, AshleyLong, armand_dude, kateg2009, Jaime Mitchell, Jeremy Crampin, Ash85, Hidden, fleapitfan, Hidden, Phil79, Hidden, Warren Earle, fivestar, jl
Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set