Dorset > Blacknor Central >
 
Cocteau Phenomena*** 7b+

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The Chronicles of Vladimir >>
28m. An impressive line up the steep wall to the left of the dominating arete. Start just to the right of the wide crack. Climb up and rightwards into the centre of the wall, then climb this to a hard finish. Finishing on the right is 7b. The lower-off is situated on the ledge above the route. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Oxley 11/May/1989

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 32 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

nacnud - Lead - 09/Aug/14 with Ed Ratcliffe

Baking hot. Lower ledges were horrible very dusty. Bolts are very hard to spot.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/14 with Steph

Broken toe?
lewiz - Lead dnf - 20/Jul/14

Great climbing, managed to onsight up to the final crux but then I had no chance - that final crux seems ridiculous for 7b+ but maybe I just need some beta.
jonleighton - Lead dog - 13/Jul/14

A bit of aiding involved! excellent route but very hard. Easy to set up TR from the quarry above so maybe one to keep trying.
Ian Bell - TR dog - 31/Aug/13 with Andrea

great route.
david potts - Lead RP - 25/May/13 with Nat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/13

absolutely blind climbing, really hard to onsight...and the finishing move is just disgusting, couldn't work it out at all had to yank on the clip
Haydn Jones - Lead dog - 24/Apr/13 with ben harding

tried to onsight, nice bt shame about the dirty start
brices - Lead dog - 30/Mar/13 with Joe Innes

Birthday bonus - via the arÍte.
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 16/Jan/13 with Dr Steve

First 7b+ went Direct. Superb climbing.
Tommyads - 2013

Did the direct finish. I think this makes it hard 7b+/7c. Great finishing sequence.
dan gibson - Lead RP - 24/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Oct/12

Linc - Lead dog - 11/Aug/12

natalietanzer - Lead RP - 21/Jul/12 with graham

first 7b+ flash in UK. Went right onto arete at the top.
Jeronimo - Lead β - 24/May/12

natalietanzer - Lead dog - 13/May/12 with Mike and Adrian

a few nice moves, up an impressive wall; but they barely make up for the sections of choss and unpleasant holds.
Toby Dunn - Lead RP - 15/Jan/12

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 29/Oct/11

tobydunford - TR dog - 01/May/11 with Phil Belcher

lukehunt - Lead dnf - 2011

Hawkscry - 2011

natalietanzer - TR dog - 11/Apr/10

Jane Weir - 2010

Hidden - TR dnf - 27/Sep/09

Great line! Direct finish.
Martin Krasnansky - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

hippo99 - Lead RP - 25/Jul/09

trev_f - TR dog - 23/Apr/09 with Jon

sam_cox - 2nd - 01/Mar/09

feilx - Lead RP - 06/Dec/08 with Rich Dagner

La Mont - 2008

bigie bob - Lead RP - 21/Feb/07

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
tiffanykate12, JackMac, maybe_si, lewiz, Hidden, archiecb

Voting
Total votes cast 31
hard 7c0 of 11
7c2 of 11
easy 7c0 of 11
hard 7b+1 of 11
7b+4 of 11
easy 7b+4 of 11
hard 7b0 of 11
7b0 of 11
easy 7b0 of 11
3 Stars8 of 20
2 Stars11 of 20
1 Star1 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead22 of 32 (68.8%)
Followed1 of 32 (3.1%)
Toproped5 of 32 (15.6%)
Unknown4 of 32 (12.5%)

'Climbed'6 of 32 (18.8%)
clean O/S2 of 32 (6.2%)
clean β1 of 32 (3.1%)
clean RP10 of 32 (31.2%)
dogged9 of 32 (28.1%)
dnf4 of 32 (12.5%)