Rockfax Description
A much-travelled favourite. Start below a wide crack on the right of an overhang at 4m. Climb up past the overhang, and then pursue a line leftwards to a long groove just right of the arete. Follow this to an overhang and finish via some difficult final moves. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 06/May/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

JoeE 19/Sep Lead O/S

Awesome starting traverse and finish moves

with Marc Griffiths
Hidden 29/Aug Lead β
RosePearson 15/Aug Lead β

long and sustained. good value.

with Harry Fogg
Dizz 09/Aug 2nd O/S
with Steve thorpe
Hidden 25/Jun Lead dnf
David Staples 25/Jun Lead dnf
philhaigh 14/Jun Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
martin one 19/Apr 2nd O/S
with Markus
JackMac 06/Apr Lead O/S

Nice climb on good holds, just a bit scary traversing at the start. Soft for the grade IMO.

with Gavin Alner, Adam Kent
Hidden 24/Jan TR rpt
Carnie Lisa ??/2015 2nd β
Hidden 29/Dec/14 2nd rpt
louby 30/Nov/14 Lead dnf

long way to the lower-off, wimp

Gem Minihan 23/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
George Killaspy 20/Jun/14 Lead RP

Very bold, sequence-y final moves - definitely type 2 fun!

with Milo, Dale
Hidden 18/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dbrooks 25/May/14 Lead dog

fell on the last move.. stiff at the top!

with John
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
BenL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Linc 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt
goddamm7 30/Aug/13 TR β

This was climb of the weekend for me but it would get a 6C 3 star in my opinion the final 3rd gets very thin! excellent climbing on good rock!!

Ian Ash 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Finished with chronicles of vladimir. Rockfax topo is not very good! I thought the top moves were hard for 6b+!

Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
trev_f 30/Mar/13 Lead β
with Ed
tonevert 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Jobbo 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller, Leon. D
Rupey 14/Oct/12 TR dog
with Barry
ian caton 27/Aug/12 Lead dnf
with Abi
philhaigh 15/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Rob Kennard
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Linc 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Daniel 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jasmina Saric
rustaldo 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

tricky climbing, beware HUEG seagulls. rock is hard to read and snappy in the middle section, which is slightly runout. the top is good.

with Mo, John Salmon
Ali.B 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead β
AlexD 29/Mar/12 Lead
with Ed
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead β
Dandan82 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Saunders
Alex More 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with sam ferguson
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 27/Sep/11 Lead

Tricky crux section halfway up which is tricky to onsight. Otherwise an easy 6b+ as there are no hard moves and its not pumpy.

dannyboy83 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie
dswansonlow 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Kopinski 31/Jul/11 Lead RP
Kopinski 13/Jul/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

nice, but not as good as stublock or burning skies. hard to read lower down.

with claudio
Kopinski 25/May/11 Lead dog
Thinker01 14/May/11 Lead O/S

No way this is 6b+! Definitely one to try if you want an easy 6b+ tick.

with Kev Stott
Arcarn 10/Apr/11 Lead β
mlg678 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 24/Mar/11 Lead
with Colin
wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Nat
matthewjames 13/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Katie Keeley
Luke Dawson 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead RP
AlexD 09/Jan/11 2nd
with Felix
feilx 09/Jan/11 Lead rpt
with Charlie
clipskipper 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Very good route - lots of variety and a good finish

with Dave (Robins?)
sonic46 10/Oct/10 2nd
with Dave and Lee, Matt Page
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Tristan Graham
Hidden 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
3 Names 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 21/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Steve H
natalietanzer 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ed
vertigo 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Harry Boden
Owen W-G 04/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Make sure you take the bolts right of the groove not on the left closer to the arete. Got pumped and scared on crux, couldn't commit or downclimb, nervous about ledges below, so squealed and jumped off. Only harmed ego but don't think 10 mins of overgrippng did dodgy elbow any favours. Most miserable achievement-free day out climbing in memory.

with David Coley
London Luke ?/Apr/10 Lead
SuseH 07/Mar/10 TR O/S
with Iain
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
timharrison 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
dan gibson 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Phil79 14/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Dogged my way up this and could not do the top moves. Turns out we had strayed onto the adjacent route a full grade harder. (Chronicles of Vladimir - thanks RockFax!) We thought it was a bit stiff at 6b+.

with Pete
Hidden 11/May/09 TR O/S
tobydunford 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 21/Mar/09 TR O/S
sam_cox 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
breed 08/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S

well exciting. serious rope drag by the top moves. (which were brilliant anyway) bottom a little cheesy.

with josh
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead β
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Kevster ??/2008 -
La Mont ??/2008 -
Richard Horn 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
jake-jones ??/2007 Lead O/S
feilx 06/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagner
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
timharrison 26/Oct/06 Lead dnf

Shit route, really loose middle section

Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Billg 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Bowen
LC ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
just one more 30/May/03 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
John Southworth 15/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
Jus ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set