UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

8m.

Rockfax Description
6a, S2. Start on the left, climb up towards the centre then slightly left to the top. Don't hit the starting boulder! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Slightly further south of the Diamond Boulder is a tidal pool - home to set of excellent deep-water solos.

Start on the left, climb up towards the centre of the boulder, then slightly leftwards towards the top. Don't hit the boulder you've just stepped off!

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buccaneer

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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