UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

9m.

Rockfax Description
Start left of the large ammonite fossil. Not bolted. © Rockfax

FA. Jimbo Kimber 2002.

Ticklists

Portland for the beginner (lead climbs)

Feedback

User Date Notes
steve taylor 10 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nope - the FA was soloed and graded Severe.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nope - the FA was soloed and graded Severe.
davewing 9 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Has this been bolted yet? I was there yesterday and could only see 4 lines of bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has this been bolted yet? I was there yesterday and could only see 4 lines of bolts.

Logged Ascents

45 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Avernus

Grade: S 4a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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