3664m. This the ordinary route and provides a short mixed route direct from the Glacier Blanc hut and descent by same. Route 30a in Alpine club book and 178 in Constant. Constant has re-graded the route to AD- due to glacial retreat. Note that both these descriptions use the same approach as the Traverse of the Domes du Monetier as far as the Col du Monetier.

F Gardiner and L Pilkington 30/Jul/1879

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
m675bowsl 19/Aug -
the ant hill mob 06/Aug Lead dnf

Longer and harder than expected, Jess stopped before final summit rock, so turned round as a group for the slow walk back.

Mike Harper, Jessica Crump
Dave Richards 23/Jul AltLd O/S

From the Glacier Blanc hut to the Valley

Chris Carr, Tom Rodgers, sjbrook
sjbrook 23/Jul AltLd O/S

Climbed the 2 pitches on the east of the ridge to gain the ridge, 15-20m to the right of the Col du Tuckett, think this gets PD+. Found the difficulty to be moving together to the summit and then decending. Was long day out but good.

Chris Carr, Tom R, Dave Richards, PMC
WhipperSnapper 21/Jul -
Jonny Nick 08/Jul Lead O/S

First route in the Ecrins. Tough due to altitude and still tired from the epic drive over. Ascent fairly straight forward but moving together on the descent back to Col Tuckett proved tricky.

Mike.Kinge 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Started from the car park at 2am. Retreated 50m below the summit due to Mike Lee suffering with the alititude.

the Aussies
Zoe Cockburn ?/Jul/14 Lead
victorhearnyeates ?/Jul/14 -
EmSto ?/Jul/14 -

Zoe and KBow. Reached summit, slow on the descent with other Brits who were the same!

Hidden ?/Aug/13 -
IanMcC 22/Jul/13 -

DnF: bailed below final top due to time and weather. A memorable outing.

AndyWhitehead, Nigel
jonesieboy 08/Jul/13 -

Great conditions. Local guidebook gives this AD-, because of the harder climb up onto the summit ridge. There is plenty of abseil tat for the ab off the ridge, but when we did it we needed a full 30m to get down onto snow, and that was with lots of snow about.

islandlynx ?/Jul/13 -
georgenvk 23/Jul/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Aug/11 -
sthame 09/Sep/10 -

Didn't summit due to bad weather. Managed to get just over the snow saddle. Great for my first true Alpine day out.

Ben Ota, Ben Reinch
jshields 28/Jul/10 Lead
Ian Hicks, Ed James
Sankey 28/Jul/10 -

Really good route, only negative is the horrible chimney to gain the summit ridgem which is a bottle neck and stone-fall funnel.

Andy E
Hidden 13/Jul/10 Lead dnf
climberuk 12/Jul/10 -

Queued at the col. Once up it took us ages to work our way to the summit as ridge is not clearly defined and its a long way away. Finished 10m from summit just on the other side of the short snowy ridge. Too knackered to go any further. Griff ticked it. Descended fairly rapidly as looked like a storm was coming through. Took us about 12 hours altogether from the Glacier Blanc hut and back. Epic for my first alpine ascent.

Stephen S, Griff, Shona
barrington1978 ?/Aug/09 -
Stuart Macfarlane 29/Jul/09 AltLd
stuaart 04/Jul/09 AltLd
Kat Torr, Neil Redgrave
Carol Goodall 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Thomas Smith
Hidden 29/Jun/09 -
rlrs ?/Sep/07 AltLd
glenngordon 22/Aug/06 -
simon tait
abbeywall ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden 15/Aug/01 -
Andy Clarke 06/Aug/01 AltLd
IanM, Alex
Hidden ?/Jul/96 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/91 -
Nick Biven 17/Jul/86 AltLd
Jo Allmand-Smith, Keith Fleming
Iain Thow 06/Jul/85 Solo

In descent

Paul Eastwood
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set