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South-West Face and South Ridge to E Summit AD-

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South-West Spur to Central Summit >>
[View from Col du Montier, 2 kb]3664m. This the ordinary route and provides a short mixed route direct from the Glacier Blanc hut and descent by same. Route 30a in Alpine club book and 178 in Constant. Constant has re-graded the route to AD- due to glacial retreat. Note that both these descriptions use the same approach as the Traverse of the Domes du Monetier as far as the Col du Monetier.
F Gardiner and L Pilkington 30/Jul/1879

Photo: View from Col du Montier © victorhearnyeates
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 26 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Started from the car park at 2am. Retreated 50m below the summit due to Mike Lee suffering with the alititude.
Mike.Kinge - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/14 with the Aussies

Zoe Cockburn - Lead - Jul/14

victorhearnyeates - Jul/14

DnF: bailed below final top due to time and weather. A memorable outing.
IanMcC - 22/Jul/13 with AndyWhitehead, Nigel

Great conditions. Local guidebook gives this AD-, because of the harder climb up onto the summit ridge. There is plenty of abseil tat for the ab off the ridge, but when we did it we needed a full 30m to get down onto snow, and that was with lots of snow about.
jonesieboy - 08/Jul/13

islandlynx - Jul/13 with matthew beals

georgenvk - Lead dnf - 23/Jul/12 with martina

Hidden - 04/Aug/11

Didn't summit due to bad weather. Managed to get just over the snow saddle. Great for my first true Alpine day out.
sthame - 09/Sep/10 with Ben Ota, Ben Reinch

jshields - Lead - 28/Jul/10 with Ian Hicks, Ed James

Really good route, only negative is the horrible chimney to gain the summit ridgem which is a bottle neck and stone-fall funnel.
Sankey - 28/Jul/10 with Andy E

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/10

Queued at the col. Once up it took us ages to work our way to the summit as ridge is not clearly defined and its a long way away. Finished 10m from summit just on the other side of the short snowy ridge. Too knackered to go any further. Griff ticked it. Descended fairly rapidly as looked like a storm was coming through. Took us about 12 hours altogether from the Glacier Blanc hut and back. Epic for my first alpine ascent.
climberuk - 12/Jul/10 with Stephen S, Griff, Shona

barrington1978 - Aug/09

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 29/Jul/09 with Jeanie

stuaart - AltLd - 04/Jul/09 with Kat Torr, Neil Redgrave

Carol Goodall - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Thomas Smith

Hidden - 29/Jun/09

rlrs - AltLd - Sep/07

glenngordon - 22/Aug/06 with simon tait

Hidden - 15/Aug/01

Andy Clarke - AltLd - 06/Aug/01 with IanM, Alex

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/96

Hidden - Jul/91

Nick Biven - AltLd - 17/Jul/86 with Jo Allmand-Smith, Keith Fleming

In descent
Iain Thow - Solo - 06/Jul/85 with Paul Eastwood

Voting
Total votes cast 6
hard AD0 of 4
AD0 of 4
easy AD0 of 4
hard AD-0 of 4
AD-0 of 4
easy AD-0 of 4
hard PD+1 of 4
PD+0 of 4
easy PD+3 of 4
3 Stars0 of 2
2 Stars2 of 2
1 Star0 of 2
0 Stars0 of 2
Bag of .....0 of 2
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 26 (3.8%)
Lead5 of 26 (19.2%)
Alt Leads7 of 26 (26.9%)
Unknown13 of 26 (50.0%)

'Climbed'22 of 26 (84.6%)
clean O/S2 of 26 (7.7%)
dnf2 of 26 (7.7%)