UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

15m.

Rockfax Description
The central line via the right-hand side of a flake. © Rockfax

FA. Scott Titt 26/Mar/1994.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland sub 6b , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Wilbur 20 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice
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βeta: Very nice
Fidget 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route, but defiantely easier than some other 4's I've done...
βeta?
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βeta: A good route, but defiantely easier than some other 4's I've done...
Ben Stokes 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A really worthwhile route...
βeta?
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βeta: A really worthwhile route...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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High 4b
Mid 4b
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High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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