UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m.

Rockfax Description
As the name suggests. Also called Sunday Swing. © Rockfax

FA. John Fletcher 1995.

Ticklists

Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , Days of the Week , Days of the Week , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
tavarua 27 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nice and grippy. Good intro to slab climbing or a first lead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice and grippy. Good intro to slab climbing or a first lead.
omniscient_penguin 11 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tall people will just step up onto the slab and go, but those shorter (<6') might struggle to ignore the gully of potential failure
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tall people will just step up onto the slab and go, but those shorter (<6') might struggle to ignore the gully of potential failure
airbournegrapefruit 17 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: that photo isnt slabtastic
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: that photo isnt slabtastic
Jenn 23 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found this more difficult than My Little Buddha, which is supposedly a higher grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this more difficult than My Little Buddha, which is supposedly a higher grade.

Logged Ascents

735 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 28 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
High 3a
Mid 3a
Low 3a
High 2c
Mid 2c
Low 2c
High 2b
Mid 2b
Low 2b
High 2a
Mid 2a
Low 2a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Intermediate Route

Grade: 3a ***
(Blacknor Beach)

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