After the last quickdraw, go straight on, the anchors will be above the last overhang. A lot of rope drag on the way down and split a bit far apart.
Nadir90 - Lead dog - 22/Mar/15
Hard and bold! (on sport?!) not too impressed.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Andy G
Jock Strap - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/14
Better than the first time I did it... I didn't feel like a change of underwear was needed this time.
Shane Willis - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/14
BIgYeti86 - Lead - 03/Aug/14
Bailed the lead half way up to avoid possible 6m fall, then top-roped (just).
dereke12000 - TR dog - 27/Jul/14 with Rich
clairemathews - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with Martin Bagshaw
Somewhat exciting for the first climb of the day. The bit up the groove is a bit border line and as the book says - substantial fall potential!
ewanjp - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Duncan O'Sullivan
nacnud - 27/Jul/14 with Richard Price, Laura Grifith, Ewan Panter
Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Claire Mathews
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14
Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jun/14
Hard climb, very hard climb.
Simon_Freeman - 2nd dog - 25/May/14
jshields - Lead - 04/May/14 with Ed James
Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/May/14
hipyhop - Lead dnf - 03/May/14 with Cherelle
Made it to 1 bolt from top then bottled it on the wet sharp crimps and retreated onto the arete. Awesome awesome climb though.
ReubenS1990 - Lead dnf - 2014
Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Oct/13
Started up the crack between losing my sad tomatoe and la cranium casse. Much easier than either of the propper lines.
Phil_Hall_97 - TR - 12/Sep/13 with Phil Jones, Chris Haines
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13 with James Barry, Aidan Barry
Katya - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Chris Skinner
4skins - 31/Aug/13 with Katya Sourkova
felt nails for 6a+
Mattlamb90 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ryan, Luke Owens, Tibbett
Scary stuff! Unfriendly bolting with polished footholds. Hard for grade.
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Andy Schlereth
Probably the most scary 6a I've ever done.
alexspurling - Lead dog - 11/Aug/13
jules1990 - TR O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Phillip Tebajwa
Hidden - TR RP - 13/Jul/13
One slip near the top caused a fall, otherwise clean onsite
dean.kruger - Lead dog - 13/Jul/13
JJunoir - 2nd dog - 08/Jul/13
David Staples - Lead O/S - Jul/13
RKirke - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with mikespooner
Hidden - Lead - 30/Jun/13
JenDurden - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13
spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13
Jim lead first, tricky 3rd clip.. decided to come down, I led very difficult mid section, had to use arete.. lower offs not well placed, use top peg
snowy white - Lead - 21/May/13 with Jim Roberts
RioVista23 - Lead rpt - 18/May/13 with Rebecca Cuppitt
PauI360 - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/13
thomb - Lead - 21/Apr/13 with Gareth, Tom Syrett
DorsetGareth - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Tom B
Fun climb, preferably use 60 m rope next time!
Doug91 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Matt
Si27 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Dan
Hard climb, got past the first three clips but could get no further
meltdown34 - Lead dnf - 29/Mar/13 with Doug
Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/13 with Alex
the ant hill mob - TR O/S - 08/Feb/13
ColinVern - TR O/S - 08/Feb/13
JuneBob - Lead dog - 29/Sep/12 with Rich
crux after 3rd clip. very difficult. easier climbing afterwards. good climb but shreds the fingers!
joe hallam - Lead dog - 07/Sep/12 with matt hardy
skhill - Lead β - 03/Sep/12
philhaigh - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12
nataliehaigh - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/12 with Phil Haigh
marcb - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/12 with Matt Marshall
matthewjames - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Marc Baldwin
KDhruev - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Tom G
oodie72 - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with MKMC
waynem1985 - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Bob Stones
TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Sam Leach
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12
climbhannahclimb - Lead - 02/Apr/12 with Lee Renshaw
dobby 200 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with rusty
Fraser hill-casey - Lead β - Mar/12 with AndrewJamesCherry
AndrewJamesCherry - Lead dog - 2012
petecox84 - 2012
Mike Parks - TR dnf - 17/Jul/11
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11
samfayers - TR dnf - 12/Jul/11 with sutty
Sars99 - TR dnf - 12/Jul/11
Danstephens - Lead - 27/Jun/11
dobby 200 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11
Scary, run out between bolts. Led clean through the hard moves but fell off while searching for the lower off!
Tomber - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11
Found it easier than "Talk". Very safe start as you can clip first bolt from boulder next to route wouldn't deck out when clipping second bolt. Fred top roped
pedro.silva - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Caz & Fred
4th bolt was far from 3rd, that's what made the climb exciting
eltax2005 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11
Gecko2k - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Martyn Brown, Adam Olive, Ola Bartkowska
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11
Scary in middle, loved it!
david.pearmain - Lead - 14/May/11
kyle - Lead O/S - 09/May/11
waynem1985 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11
First 3 quickdraws placed by El Presidente.
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Jon
Very sketchy... would not want to fall!
marcb - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Michael Moore
Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11
Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/11 with Ash
torsok - Lead dog - 29/Jan/11 with Eva
stevorobs3 - Lead dog - 2011
Done this route 2/3 years ago, I remember talking quite a decent fall from near the top to meet my mate at the first bolt which had stopped him. didnt fall the second time :)
Danny Bags - 2011
mwatson - 2011
mattshort - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Tom R
Had 2 big whippers and got cold after that, will return to get the clean ascent
Tom87 - Lead dog - 21/Nov/10
Hard. Scary. Run out. Lots of falls. I got the first three clips in without too much trouble, but nearly crapped myself going for the 4th. A long way above the previous clip, bridged with both legs shaking and the bolt still out of reach. I don't know how I made it.
Note to belayers: ANCHOR YOURSELF. If your climber takes a big fall, you'll get thrown bodily into the wall.
flatcap - Lead dog - 02/Oct/10 with Karl
Numerous falls at the crux, eventually worked out a foot sequence and finished it off.
I strongly suggest belayers anchor themselves (or brace firmly) at the bottom as I got yanked off the boulder and cheese-gratered down the wall when Rich fell (I didn't drop him though!).
UnkArl - Lead dog - 02/Oct/10 with Rich Russon
very hard for 6a+
jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with john ripley
adambaker - Lead - Sep/10
Scariest 6a+ I have done!
riddle - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Yasmina
pete_fewings - Lead O/S - Jul/10
Not a fan of the bolting on this one...
Sami Mandeel - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10
k2col - TR dog - 20/Jun/10
Alex More - Lead - 16/Jun/10 with Sparky
Sparky!!!3 - Lead - 16/Jun/10
one fall on the crux the rest was clean.
nath_casper - Lead dog - 30/May/10
Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Apr/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10
dunky - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10
hmm, the spaced bolts totally freaked me out. In addition to damp holds. Backed off near the top.
IanMulvany - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/10 with Nik
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Mike Hawkins
good thin climbing, nice moves but felt pretty serious - falling not an option!
ripper - Lead - 2010 with jon gill, Chris Warby
LukeyG - Lead dnf - 2010
Awesome setting. Badly Bolted (not great for TR either, the loweroff puts serious abrasion on the rope). Did this at high tide and dropped my quikdraw in the drink. Got damp retrieving it.
funsized - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/09 with Charlotte Best
Greypoint - looked at it on shunt years ago, not that that was any help
Chris the Tall - Lead β - 26/Sep/09 with Liz
Very sharp rock, but thoroughly enjoyed the climb. Hardest move near the top.
Kingsjester - TR - 24/Sep/09 with G. Tuson
John forgot his harness so all belaying done with a sling harness. the idiot!
Pete Scott - Lead - 03/Sep/09
vertigo - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Grace Bird
Awesome route, though the bolting could have been thought out a little better. Rather irritated at myself for having fallen on a fairly straightforward part of the climb as well.
andy dunn - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09 with Alan
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09
krikoman - Lead rpt - 23/May/09 with Lindsey Austin, Greg Childs, Rick Gibbs
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 10/May/09
Did this just after high tide, and CoffeePot didn't get wet at all, though it made lowering off more interesting that it might have been.
Grabbed the third QD through fear of unbalancing, but the rest was alright, despite the runout feel.
jelaby - Lead dog - 09/May/09 with CoffeePot
Bella - TR O/S - 02/May/09 with Claire W
Ben Sidsaph - TR - 26/Apr/09
ellie macpherson - Lead - 26/Apr/09
sam8oy - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/09 with Jay
good lead by Sam, found this very technical and tricky. Fingers got cold as well
Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with sam8oy
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09
Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Apr/09
Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/09
breed - Lead rpt - 08/Jan/09 with Edward Waters
thompson1000 - Lead - 2009
Jane Weir - Lead - 2009
nealh - Lead - 2009
jominator - Lead - 2009
eastley - Lead - 2009
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/08 with Milly
Hidden - TR - 25/Oct/08
Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/08
This lead scared me - run outs on thin moves up an abrasive slab. A couple more bolts would be reasonable.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Clare
Jonathan Emett - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08 with tom
Enjoyed the "crux" section, but didn't seem any easier thereafter - would have been quite a sketchy lead
Eoinparker - TR - 28/Jun/08 with Gaby Amiel, iain ward, james easterbrook
Trisha Murphy - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/08 with Marina Unterforsthuber
very run out and therefore Very fluttery
Darren_R - Lead dog - 15/Jun/08 with Tony keith and roger
Nice climbing, but the bolt positioning would have made it a scary lead.
Julia Chatterton - TR - 14/Jun/08 with Will
Reeges - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08
Very sustained and fingery, especially if you follow the route to the left of the last clip.
krikoman - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Kev Gibbs
AndyM-LVB - TR β - 11/May/08 with Richard Hopton
richardhopton - Lead - 11/May/08 with AndyM-LVB
richardhopton - Lead - 11/May/08 with AndyM-LVB
Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/May/08
breed - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/08
Hidden - TR dog - 2008
Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - Dec/07
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07
Herron - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/07 with Simon Riley
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Jim Keeley
PhilWragg - Lead - 02/Jun/07
Hidden - Lead - Jun/07
My first onsight lead!
Debs1 - Lead O/S - May/07 with Lewis Maddock
Mr Powly - TR - 02/Apr/07 with Sam Bennet
ecowaller - Lead - Feb/07 with Paula
jl - Lead dog - 28/Jan/07 with Penny
Hidden - 2007
Richard White - 2007
onlytovey - 2007
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/06
Greg Pittam - Lead - Aug/06
sam8oy - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with John
quite a fingery crux but good fun
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/06 with jon
dave657 - Lead - 24/Jun/06
annakyn - Lead - Jun/06
harryt - Lead dog - 18/Mar/06 with Craig
Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/06
Lev - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/06 with Emma Ross
steve taylor - Lead - 2006
Marti999 - Lead - 2006
Hidden - 2006
Lloyders - Lead O/S - 2006
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Oct/05
aged_ape - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Simon Oliver
timharrison - Lead rpt - Jul/05 with Corryne
bigie bob - Lead O/S - 2005
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 2005
chris murnin - Lead - 14/Oct/04
petebale2000 - TR dog - 05/Jul/04
Managed about 40%...stuck on the crux, thereafter looked amenable.
Rob Oram - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/04 with Richard Davison & Simon
Hidden - Jun/04
Richard Horn - Lead RP - 2004
Marq - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/03 with Daniel Dennehy
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/03 with Rich Tree
furry - TR - 26/Aug/02 with Phil B
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/01
Hidden - Lead β - 04/Sep/01
Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/01 with dean howard
John Southworth - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/01
Hidden - TR RP - 19/Mar/00
Stone Muppet - 2000
brew_guru - TR - 1999 with jamie knight
Hidden - 1999
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/97
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/95