Le Cranium Cassť* 6a+

Rockfax Description
The groove left of the arete is now adequately bolted, but it still has a sizeable fall potential. © ROCKFAX

FA. Damian Cook 27/May/1995

Ticklists: Portland Unwishlist.

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This climb is in 211 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

pimpy - Lead dnf - 26/Sep/15 with Ag Ku

took a big fall between the third and 4th bolt. definitely a project
rumblesan - Lead dnf - 19/Sep/15

justtoots - AltLd dnf - 21/Aug/15

took a while to work out the middle section
martin one - Lead dog - 15/Aug/15 with HMA

did the crux and then took about a 6 or 7 metre whip off the last overhang, good fun but scary for a sport route and very run out. quite tricky route finding near the top contributed to my fall (probably...)!
tomdawson4 - Lead dog - 12/Aug/15

max_dickens - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/15

samparsons - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/15 with Emmie

Mouse Matt - Lead β - 09/Jun/15

Fell off the crux with sharp shelly crimps. Also didn't like the run out section to the top.
WilliamD - Lead dog - 25/May/15 with Alex Haddon

ChristyCole - Lead O/S - 23/May/15

gemmatrickey - Lead - 18/Apr/15

gemmatrickey - Lead - 18/Apr/15

Scary - nice to find a sport route with a trad-style fear factor! I hope no more bolts are added as bold runout is what defines the route. It is easy to see the offending section in advance, and the leader can make a choice either to boldly go or to retreat onto the arete. I expect it will get bolted soon, but it will be a shame to ruin the excitement/terror! The overhang at the end was nice too. 2 stars from me!
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Ruth White

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/15

After the last quickdraw, go straight on, the anchors will be above the last overhang. A lot of rope drag on the way down and split a bit far apart.
Nadir90 - Lead dog - 22/Mar/15

Hard and bold! (on sport?!) not too impressed.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Andy G

ReubenS1990 - Lead dog - 2015

Jock Strap - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/14

Better than the first time I did it... I didn't feel like a change of underwear was needed this time.
Shane Willis - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/14

BIgYeti86 - Lead - 03/Aug/14

Bailed the lead half way up to avoid possible 6m fall, then top-roped (just).
dereke12000 - TR dog - 27/Jul/14 with Rich

clairemathews - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with Martin Bagshaw

Somewhat exciting for the first climb of the day. The bit up the groove is a bit border line and as the book says - substantial fall potential!
ewanjp - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Duncan O'Sullivan

nacnud - 27/Jul/14 with Richard Price, Laura Grifith, Ewan Panter

Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Claire Mathews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/14

Hard climb, very hard climb.
Simon_Freeman - 2nd dog - 25/May/14

jshields - Lead - 04/May/14 with Ed James

kieranbowen - Lead dnf - 03/May/14 with Ruth

hipyhop - Lead dnf - 03/May/14 with Cherelle

Made it to 1 bolt from top then bottled it on the wet sharp crimps and retreated onto the arete. Awesome awesome climb though.
ReubenS1990 - Lead dnf - 2014

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Oct/13

Started up the crack between losing my sad tomatoe and la cranium casse. Much easier than either of the propper lines.
Phil_Hall_97 - TR - 12/Sep/13 with Phil Jones, Chris Haines

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13 with James Barry, Aidan Barry

Katya - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Chris Skinner

4skins - 31/Aug/13 with Katya Sourkova

felt nails for 6a+
Mattlamb90 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ryan, Luke Owens, Tibbett

Scary stuff! Unfriendly bolting with polished footholds. Hard for grade.
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Andy Schlereth

Probably the most scary 6a I've ever done.
alexspurling - Lead dog - 11/Aug/13

jules1990 - TR O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Phillip Tebajwa

Hidden - TR RP - 13/Jul/13

One slip near the top caused a fall, otherwise clean onsite
dean.kruger - Lead dog - 13/Jul/13

JJunoir - 2nd dog - 08/Jul/13

David Staples - Lead O/S - Jul/13

RKirke - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with mikespooner

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jun/13

JenDurden - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13

spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Jim lead first, tricky 3rd clip.. decided to come down, I led very difficult mid section, had to use arete.. lower offs not well placed, use top peg
snowy white - Lead - 21/May/13 with Jim Roberts

RioVista23 - Lead rpt - 18/May/13 with Rebecca Cuppitt

PauI360 - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/13

thomb - Lead - 21/Apr/13 with Gareth, Tom Syrett

DorsetGareth - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Tom B

Nick_Merriman - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Alex Collins

Fun climb, preferably use 60 m rope next time!
Doug91 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Matt

Si27 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Dan

Hard climb, got past the first three clips but could get no further
meltdown34 - Lead dnf - 29/Mar/13 with Doug

Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/13 with Alex

the ant hill mob - TR O/S - 08/Feb/13

ColinVern - TR O/S - 08/Feb/13

JuneBob - Lead dog - 29/Sep/12 with Rich

crux after 3rd clip. very difficult. easier climbing afterwards. good climb but shreds the fingers!
joe hallam - Lead dog - 07/Sep/12 with matt hardy

skhill - Lead β - 03/Sep/12

philhaigh - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12

nataliehaigh - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/12 with Phil Haigh

marcb - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/12 with Matt Marshall

matthewjames - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Marc Baldwin

KDhruev - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Tom G

oodie72 - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with MKMC

waynem1985 - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Bob Stones

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Sam Leach

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

climbhannahclimb - Lead - 02/Apr/12 with Lee Renshaw

dobby 200 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with rusty

Fraser hill-casey - Lead β - Mar/12 with AndrewJamesCherry

AndrewJamesCherry - Lead dog - 2012

petecox84 - 2012

Mike Parks - TR dnf - 17/Jul/11

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11

samfayers - TR dnf - 12/Jul/11 with sutty

Sars99 - TR dnf - 12/Jul/11

Danstephens - Lead - 27/Jun/11

dobby 200 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11

Scary, run out between bolts. Led clean through the hard moves but fell off while searching for the lower off!
Tomber - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

Found it easier than "Talk". Very safe start as you can clip first bolt from boulder next to route wouldn't deck out when clipping second bolt. Fred top roped
pedro.silva - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Caz & Fred

4th bolt was far from 3rd, that's what made the climb exciting
eltax2005 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11

Gecko2k - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Martyn Brown, Adam Olive, Ola Bartkowska

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Scary in middle, loved it!
david.pearmain - Lead - 14/May/11

kyle - Lead O/S - 09/May/11

waynem1985 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

First 3 quickdraws placed by El Presidente.
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Jon

Very sketchy... would not want to fall!
marcb - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Michael Moore

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11

Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/11 with Ash

torsok - Lead dog - 29/Jan/11 with Eva

stevorobs3 - Lead dog - 2011

Done this route 2/3 years ago, I remember talking quite a decent fall from near the top to meet my mate at the first bolt which had stopped him. didnt fall the second time :)
Danny Bags - 2011

mwatson - 2011

mattshort - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Tom R

Had 2 big whippers and got cold after that, will return to get the clean ascent
Tom87 - Lead dog - 21/Nov/10

Hard. Scary. Run out. Lots of falls. I got the first three clips in without too much trouble, but nearly crapped myself going for the 4th. A long way above the previous clip, bridged with both legs shaking and the bolt still out of reach. I don't know how I made it. Note to belayers: ANCHOR YOURSELF. If your climber takes a big fall, you'll get thrown bodily into the wall.
flatcap - Lead dog - 02/Oct/10 with Karl

Numerous falls at the crux, eventually worked out a foot sequence and finished it off. I strongly suggest belayers anchor themselves (or brace firmly) at the bottom as I got yanked off the boulder and cheese-gratered down the wall when Rich fell (I didn't drop him though!).
UnkArl - Lead dog - 02/Oct/10 with Rich Russon

very hard for 6a+
jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with john ripley

adambaker - Lead - Sep/10

Scariest 6a+ I have done!
riddle - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Yasmina

pete_fewings - Lead O/S - Jul/10

Not a fan of the bolting on this one...
Sami Mandeel - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

k2col - TR dog - 20/Jun/10

Alex More - Lead - 16/Jun/10 with Sparky

Sparky!!!3 - Lead - 16/Jun/10

one fall on the crux the rest was clean.
nath_casper - Lead dog - 30/May/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

dunky - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10

hmm, the spaced bolts totally freaked me out. In addition to damp holds. Backed off near the top.
IanMulvany - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/10 with Nik

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Mike Hawkins

good thin climbing, nice moves but felt pretty serious - falling not an option!
ripper - Lead - 2010 with jon gill, Chris Warby

LukeyG - Lead dnf - 2010

Awesome setting. Badly Bolted (not great for TR either, the loweroff puts serious abrasion on the rope). Did this at high tide and dropped my quikdraw in the drink. Got damp retrieving it.
funsized - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/09 with Charlotte Best

Greypoint - looked at it on shunt years ago, not that that was any help
Chris the Tall - Lead β - 26/Sep/09 with Liz

Very sharp rock, but thoroughly enjoyed the climb. Hardest move near the top.
Kingsjester - TR - 24/Sep/09 with G. Tuson

John forgot his harness so all belaying done with a sling harness. the idiot!
Pete Scott - Lead - 03/Sep/09

vertigo - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Grace Bird

Awesome route, though the bolting could have been thought out a little better. Rather irritated at myself for having fallen on a fairly straightforward part of the climb as well.
andy dunn - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09

krikoman - Lead rpt - 23/May/09 with Lindsey Austin, Greg Childs, Rick Gibbs

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Did this just after high tide, and CoffeePot didn't get wet at all, though it made lowering off more interesting that it might have been. Grabbed the third QD through fear of unbalancing, but the rest was alright, despite the runout feel.
jelaby - Lead dog - 09/May/09 with CoffeePot

Bella - TR O/S - 02/May/09 with Claire W

Ben Sidsaph - TR - 26/Apr/09

ellie macpherson - Lead - 26/Apr/09

sam8oy - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/09 with Jay

good lead by Sam, found this very technical and tricky. Fingers got cold as well
Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with sam8oy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/09

breed - Lead rpt - 08/Jan/09 with Edward Waters

thompson1000 - Lead - 2009

Jane Weir - Lead - 2009

nealh - Lead - 2009

jominator - Lead - 2009

eastley - Lead - 2009

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/08 with Milly

Hidden - TR - 25/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/08

This lead scared me - run outs on thin moves up an abrasive slab. A couple more bolts would be reasonable.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Clare

Jonathan Emett - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08 with tom

Enjoyed the "crux" section, but didn't seem any easier thereafter - would have been quite a sketchy lead
Eoinparker - TR - 28/Jun/08 with Gaby Amiel, iain ward, james easterbrook

Trisha Murphy - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/08 with Marina Unterforsthuber

very run out and therefore Very fluttery
Darren_R - Lead dog - 15/Jun/08 with Tony keith and roger

Nice climbing, but the bolt positioning would have made it a scary lead.
Julia Chatterton - TR - 14/Jun/08 with Will

Reeges - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08

Very sustained and fingery, especially if you follow the route to the left of the last clip.
krikoman - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Kev Gibbs

AndyM-LVB - TR β - 11/May/08 with Richard Hopton

richardhopton - Lead - 11/May/08 with AndyM-LVB

richardhopton - Lead - 11/May/08 with AndyM-LVB

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/May/08

breed - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/08

Hidden - TR dog - 2008

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - Dec/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07

Herron - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/07 with Simon Riley

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Jim Keeley

PhilWragg - Lead - 02/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead - Jun/07

My first onsight lead!
Debs1 - Lead O/S - May/07 with Lewis Maddock

Mr Powly - TR - 02/Apr/07 with Sam Bennet

ecowaller - Lead - Feb/07 with Paula

jl - Lead dog - 28/Jan/07 with Penny

Hidden - 2007

Southern Mark Smith - 2007

onlytovey - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/06

Greg Pittam - Lead - Aug/06

sam8oy - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with John

quite a fingery crux but good fun
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/06 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/06

annakyn - Lead - Jun/06

harryt - Lead dog - 18/Mar/06 with Craig

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/06

Lev - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/06 with Emma Ross

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Lloyders - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Oct/05

aged_ape - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Simon Oliver

timharrison - Lead rpt - Jul/05 with Corryne

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 2005

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 2005

chris murnin - Lead - 14/Oct/04

petebale2000 - TR dog - 05/Jul/04

Managed about 40%...stuck on the crux, thereafter looked amenable.
Rob Oram - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/04 with Richard Davison & Simon

Hidden - Jun/04

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 2004

Marq - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/03 with Daniel Dennehy

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/03 with Rich Tree

furry - TR - 26/Aug/02 with Phil B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/01

Hidden - Lead β - 04/Sep/01

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/01 with dean howard

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/01

Hidden - TR RP - 19/Mar/00

Stone Muppet - 2000

brew_guru - TR - 1999 with jamie knight

Hidden - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/95

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
suffolknick, Pete Dangerous, fivestar

Total votes cast 100
hard 6b0 of 57
6b1 of 57
easy 6b5 of 57
hard 6a+40 of 57
6a+10 of 57
easy 6a+1 of 57
hard 6a0 of 57
6a0 of 57
easy 6a0 of 57
3 Stars1 of 43
2 Stars7 of 43
1 Star24 of 43
0 Stars10 of 43
Bag of .....1 of 43
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