UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

21m.

Rockfax Description
The groove left of the arete is adequately bolted, but it still has a sizeable fall potential. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 27/May/1995.

Ticklists

Portland Unwishlist , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pottsy84 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of comments about dodgy belay stance - it's fine if you drop down into the gap between the boulders directly under the line and belay from there.
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βeta: Couple of comments about dodgy belay stance - it's fine if you drop down into the gap between the boulders directly under the line and belay from there.
Ollie Smart 17 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Load of crap!
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βeta: Load of crap!
Wilbur 23 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: whipped off this in imperfect conditions (greasy). agree with other comments!
βeta?
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βeta: whipped off this in imperfect conditions (greasy). agree with other comments!
Richard Horn 9 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Crux moves are painful. The climbing above is much more pleasant.
βeta?
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βeta: Crux moves are painful. The climbing above is much more pleasant.

Logged Ascents

392 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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