Rockfax Description
The groove left of the arete is now adequately bolted, but it still has a sizeable fall potential. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 27/May/1995

Ticklists: Portland Unwishlist.

chrismadar 25/Oct Lead O/S

Felt pretty stiff for 6a+, some fairly exposed moves but really cool climb!

Gazmataz 18/Oct Lead
pimpy 26/Sep Lead dnf
with Ag Ku
rumblesan 19/Sep Lead dnf

took a big fall between the third and 4th bolt. definitely a project

justtoots 21/Aug AltLd dnf
martin one 15/Aug Lead dog

took a while to work out the middle section

with HMA
tomdawson4 12/Aug Lead dog

did the crux and then took about a 6 or 7 metre whip off the last overhang, good fun but scary for a sport route and very run out. quite tricky route finding near the top contributed to my fall (probably...)!

max_dickens 22/Jul Lead O/S
samparsons 11/Jun Lead O/S
with Emmie
Mouse Matt 09/Jun Lead β
WilliamD 25/May Lead dog

Fell off the crux with sharp shelly crimps. Also didn't like the run out section to the top.

with Alex Haddon
ChristyCole 23/May Lead O/S
gemmatrickey 18/Apr Lead
gemmatrickey 18/Apr Lead
Chris Sansum 06/Apr Lead O/S

Scary - nice to find a sport route with a trad-style fear factor! I hope no more bolts are added as bold runout is what defines the route. It is easy to see the offending section in advance, and the leader can make a choice either to boldly go or to retreat onto the arete. I expect it will get bolted soon, but it will be a shame to ruin the excitement/terror! The overhang at the end was nice too. 2 stars from me!

with Ruth White
Hidden ?/Apr Lead O/S
Nadir90 22/Mar Lead dog

After the last quickdraw, go straight on, the anchors will be above the last overhang. A lot of rope drag on the way down and split a bit far apart.

Stanners 07/Mar Lead O/S

Hard and bold! (on sport?!) not too impressed.

with Andy G
ReubenS1990 ??/2015 Lead dog
Jock Strap 13/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Shane Willis 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Better than the first time I did it... I didn't feel like a change of underwear was needed this time.

BIgYeti86 03/Aug/14 Lead
dereke12000 27/Jul/14 TR dog

Bailed the lead half way up to avoid possible 6m fall, then top-roped (just).

with Rich
clairemathews 27/Jul/14 2nd
ewanjp 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Somewhat exciting for the first climb of the day. The bit up the groove is a bit border line and as the book says - substantial fall potential!

nacnud 27/Jul/14 -
with Richard Price, Laura Grifith, Ewan Panter
Martin Bagshaw 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Simon_Freeman 25/May/14 2nd dog

Hard climb, very hard climb.

jshields 04/May/14 Lead
kieranbowen 03/May/14 Lead dnf
with Ruth
hipyhop 03/May/14 Lead dnf
with Cherelle
ReubenS1990 ??/2014 Lead dnf

Made it to 1 bolt from top then bottled it on the wet sharp crimps and retreated onto the arete. Awesome awesome climb though.

Hidden 13/Oct/13 Lead dog
Phil_Hall_97 12/Sep/13 TR

Started up the crack between losing my sad tomatoe and la cranium casse. Much easier than either of the propper lines.

with Phil Jones, Chris Haines
zcsharp 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with James Barry, Aidan Barry
Katya 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Skinner
4skins 31/Aug/13 -
Mattlamb90 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

felt nails for 6a+

Matt Smith 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Scary stuff! Unfriendly bolting with polished footholds. Hard for grade.

alexspurling 11/Aug/13 Lead dog

Probably the most scary 6a I've ever done.

jules1990 08/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Phillip Tebajwa
Hidden 13/Jul/13 TR RP
dean.kruger 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

One slip near the top caused a fall, otherwise clean onsite

JJunoir 08/Jul/13 2nd dog
David Staples ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
RKirke 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead
JenDurden 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf
spidermonkey09 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
snowy white 21/May/13 Lead

Jim lead first, tricky 3rd clip.. decided to come down, I led very difficult mid section, had to use arete.. lower offs not well placed, use top peg

with Jim Roberts
RioVista23 18/May/13 Lead rpt
with Rebecca Cuppitt
PauI360 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
thomb 21/Apr/13 Lead
with Gareth, Tom Syrett
DorsetGareth 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Nick_Merriman ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Doug91 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Fun climb, preferably use 60 m rope next time!

with Matt
Si27 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Dan
meltdown34 29/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Hard climb, got past the first three clips but could get no further

with Doug
Stefan_Morris 25/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Alex
the ant hill mob 08/Feb/13 TR O/S
ColinVern 08/Feb/13 TR O/S
JuneBob 29/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Rich
joe hallam 07/Sep/12 Lead dog

crux after 3rd clip. very difficult. easier climbing afterwards. good climb but shreds the fingers!

skhill 03/Sep/12 Lead β
philhaigh 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
nataliehaigh 23/Jul/12 2nd dog
marcb 30/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Matt Marshall
matthewjames 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
KDhruev 29/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tom G
oodie72 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with MKMC
waynem1985 05/May/12 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Leach
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
climbhannahclimb 02/Apr/12 Lead
with Lee Renshaw
dobby 200 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with rusty
Fraser hill-casey ?/Mar/12 Lead β
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2012 Lead dog
petecox84 ??/2012 -
Mike Parks 17/Jul/11 TR dnf
ianjfsutcliffe 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
samfayers 12/Jul/11 TR dnf
with sutty
Sars99 12/Jul/11 TR dnf
Danstephens 27/Jun/11 Lead
dobby 200 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Tomber 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Scary, run out between bolts. Led clean through the hard moves but fell off while searching for the lower off!

pedro.silva 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Found it easier than "Talk". Very safe start as you can clip first bolt from boulder next to route wouldn't deck out when clipping second bolt. Fred top roped

with Caz & Fred
eltax2005 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S

4th bolt was far from 3rd, that's what made the climb exciting

Gecko2k 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Martyn Brown, Adam Olive, Ola Bartkowska
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
david.pearmain 14/May/11 Lead

Scary in middle, loved it!

kyle 09/May/11 Lead O/S
waynem1985 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
pelvoux 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First 3 quickdraws placed by El Presidente.

with Jon
marcb 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Very sketchy... would not want to fall!

with Michael Moore
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 20/Feb/11 Lead rpt
with Ash
torsok 29/Jan/11 Lead dog


with Eva
stevorobs3 ??/2011 Lead dog
Danny Bags ??/2011 -

Done this route 2/3 years ago, I remember talking quite a decent fall from near the top to meet my mate at the first bolt which had stopped him. didnt fall the second time :)

mwatson ??/2011 -
mattshort 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Tom R
Tom87 21/Nov/10 Lead dog

Had 2 big whippers and got cold after that, will return to get the clean ascent

flatcap 02/Oct/10 Lead dog

Hard. Scary. Run out. Lots of falls. I got the first three clips in without too much trouble, but nearly crapped myself going for the 4th. A long way above the previous clip, bridged with both legs shaking and the bolt still out of reach. I don't know how I made it. Note to belayers: ANCHOR YOURSELF. If your climber takes a big fall, you'll get thrown bodily into the wall.

with Karl
UnkArl 02/Oct/10 Lead dog

Numerous falls at the crux, eventually worked out a foot sequence and finished it off. I strongly suggest belayers anchor themselves (or brace firmly) at the bottom as I got yanked off the boulder and cheese-gratered down the wall when Rich fell (I didn't drop him though!).

jon_gill1 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S

very hard for 6a+

adambaker ?/Sep/10 Lead
riddle 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Scariest 6a+ I have done!

with Yasmina
pete_fewings ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Not a fan of the bolting on this one...

k2col 20/Jun/10 TR dog
Alex More 16/Jun/10 Lead
with Sparky
Sparky!!!3 16/Jun/10 Lead
nath_casper 30/May/10 Lead dog

one fall on the crux the rest was clean.

Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
dunky 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
IanMulvany 21/Feb/10 Lead dnf

hmm, the spaced bolts totally freaked me out. In addition to damp holds. Backed off near the top.

with Nik
Ed Babs 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
ripper ??/2010 Lead

good thin climbing, nice moves but felt pretty serious - falling not an option!

with jon gill, Chris Warby
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead dnf
funsized 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Awesome setting. Badly Bolted (not great for TR either, the loweroff puts serious abrasion on the rope). Did this at high tide and dropped my quikdraw in the drink. Got damp retrieving it.

Chris the Tall 26/Sep/09 Lead β

Greypoint - looked at it on shunt years ago, not that that was any help

with Liz
Kingsjester 24/Sep/09 TR

Very sharp rock, but thoroughly enjoyed the climb. Hardest move near the top.

Pete Scott 03/Sep/09 Lead

John forgot his harness so all belaying done with a sling harness. the idiot!

vertigo 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Grace Bird
andy dunn 14/Jun/09 Lead dog

Awesome route, though the bolting could have been thought out a little better. Rather irritated at myself for having fallen on a fairly straightforward part of the climb as well.

with Alan
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
krikoman 23/May/09 Lead rpt
with Lindsey Austin, Greg Childs, Rick Gibbs
eddy-on-the-rocks 10/May/09 Lead O/S
jelaby 09/May/09 Lead dog

Did this just after high tide, and CoffeePot didn't get wet at all, though it made lowering off more interesting that it might have been. Grabbed the third QD through fear of unbalancing, but the rest was alright, despite the runout feel.

Bella 02/May/09 TR O/S
with Claire W
Ben Sidsaph 26/Apr/09 TR
ellie macpherson 26/Apr/09 Lead
sam8oy 19/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Jay
Jeronimo 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

good lead by Sam, found this very technical and tricky. Fingers got cold as well

with sam8oy
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
breed 08/Jan/09 Lead rpt
thompson1000 ??/2009 Lead
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
jominator ??/2009 Lead
eastley ??/2009 Lead
lukehodson 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Milly
Hidden 25/Oct/08 TR
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S

This lead scared me - run outs on thin moves up an abrasive slab. A couple more bolts would be reasonable.

with Clare
Jonathan Emett 28/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with tom
Eoinparker 28/Jun/08 TR

Enjoyed the "crux" section, but didn't seem any easier thereafter - would have been quite a sketchy lead

with Gaby Amiel, iain ward, james easterbrook
Trisha Murphy 19/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Marina Unterforsthuber
Darren_R 15/Jun/08 Lead dog

very run out and therefore Very fluttery

with Tony keith and roger
Julia Chatterton 14/Jun/08 TR

Nice climbing, but the bolt positioning would have made it a scary lead.

with Will
Reeges 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
krikoman 25/May/08 Lead O/S

Very sustained and fingery, especially if you follow the route to the left of the last clip.

AndyM-LVB 11/May/08 TR β
richardhopton 11/May/08 Lead
richardhopton 11/May/08 Lead
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead dnf
breed 20/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 TR dog
Graham Westbrook ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Herron 22/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jim Keeley
PhilWragg 02/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead
Debs1 ?/May/07 Lead O/S

My first onsight lead!

with Lewis Maddock
Mr Powly 02/Apr/07 TR
with Sam Bennet
ecowaller ?/Feb/07 Lead
with Paula
jl 28/Jan/07 Lead dog
with Penny
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
onlytovey ??/2007 -
Hidden 22/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam ?/Aug/06 Lead
sam8oy ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with John
beanfingers 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S

quite a fingery crux but good fun

with jon
Hidden 24/Jun/06 Lead
annakyn ?/Jun/06 Lead
harryt 18/Mar/06 Lead dog
with Craig
Hidden 18/Mar/06 2nd
Lev 18/Mar/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Lloyders ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S
aged_ape ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Jul/05 Lead rpt
with Corryne
bigie bob ??/2005 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ??/2005 Lead O/S
chris murnin 14/Oct/04 Lead
petebale2000 05/Jul/04 TR dog
Rob Oram 06/Jun/04 Lead dnf

Managed about 40%...stuck on the crux, thereafter looked amenable.

with Richard Davison & Simon
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
Richard Horn ??/2004 Lead RP
Marq 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
goi.ashmore 04/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Tree
furry 26/Aug/02 TR
with Phil B
Hidden 28/Oct/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/01 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 04/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with dean howard
John Southworth 01/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/00 TR RP
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
brew_guru ??/1999 TR
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden 07/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
suffolknick, Pete Dangerous, fivestar, Hidden
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set