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Le Cranium Casse* 6a+

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[Le Cranium Casse, 2 kb]21m. The groove left of the arete is now adequately bolted, but it still has a sizeable fall potential. © ROCKFAX
FA. Damian Cook 27.5.95 27/May/1995

Ticklists: Orange Spot Portland.

Photo: Le Cranium Casse © dave_rose
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 131 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Katya - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Chris Skinner

4skins - 31/Aug/13 with Katya Sourkova

felt nails for 6a+
Mattlamb90 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ryan, Luke Owens, Tibbett

Scary stuff! Unfriendly bolting with polished footholds. Hard for grade.
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Andy Schlereth

Probably the most scary 6a I've ever done.
alexspurling - Lead dog - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - TR RP - 13/Jul/13

JJunoir - 2nd dog - 08/Jul/13

Roger Kirke - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with mikespooner

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jun/13

Jim lead first, tricky 3rd clip.. decided to come down, I led very difficult mid section, had to use arete.. lower offs not well placed, use top peg
snowy white - Lead - 21/May/13 with Jim Roberts

thomb - Lead - 21/Apr/13 with Gareth, Tom Syrett

Hard climb, got past the first three clips but could get no further
meltdown34 - Lead dnf - 29/Mar/13 with Doug

Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/13 with Alex

JuneBob - Lead dog - 29/Sep/12 with Rich

skhill - Lead β - 03/Sep/12

philhaigh - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12

nataliehaigh - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/12 with Phil Haigh

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Sam Leach

Fraser hill-casey - Lead β - Mar/12 with AndrewJamesCherry

petecox84 - 2012

Mike Parks - TR dnf - 17/Jul/11

Danstephens - Lead - 27/Jun/11

dobby 200 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11

Found it easier than "Talk". Very safe start as you can clip first bolt from boulder next to route wouldn't deck out when clipping second bolt. Fred top roped
pedro.silva - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Caz & Fred

4th bolt was far from 3rd, that's what made the climb exciting
eltax2005 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Scary in middle, loved it!
david.pearmain - Lead - 14/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11

Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/11 with Ash

stevorobs3 - Lead dog - 2011

Done this route 2/3 years ago, I remember talking quite a decent fall from near the top to meet my mate at the first bolt which had stopped him. didnt fall the second time :)
Danny Bags - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hard. Scary. Run out. Lots of falls. I got the first three clips in without too much trouble, but nearly crapped myself going for the 4th. A long way above the previous clip, bridged with both legs shaking and the bolt still out of reach. I don't know how I made it. Note to belayers: ANCHOR YOURSELF. If your climber takes a big fall, you'll get thrown bodily into the wall.
flatcap - Lead dog - 02/Oct/10 with Karl

Numerous falls at the crux, eventually worked out a foot sequence and finished it off. I strongly suggest belayers anchor themselves (or brace firmly) at the bottom as I got yanked off the boulder and cheese-gratered down the wall when Rich fell (I didn't drop him though!).
UnkArl - Lead dog - 02/Oct/10 with Rich Russon

very hard for 6a+
jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with john ripley

adambaker - Lead - Sep/10

Not a fan of the bolting on this one...
Sami Mandeel - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

k2col - TR dog - 20/Jun/10

Alex More - Lead - 16/Jun/10 with Sparky

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

dunky - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10

hmm, the spaced bolts totally freaked me out. In addition to damp holds. Backed off near the top.
IanMulvany - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/10 with Nik

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Mike Hawkins

good thin climbing, nice moves but felt pretty serious - falling not an option!
ripper - Lead - 2010 with jon gill, Chris Warby

LukeyG - Lead dnf - 2010

Awesome setting. Badly Bolted (not great for TR either, the loweroff puts serious abrasion on the rope). Did this at high tide and dropped my quikdraw in the drink. Got damp retrieving it.
funsized - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/09 with Charlotte Best

Greypoint - looked at it on shunt years ago, not that that was any help
Chris the Tall - Lead β - 26/Sep/09 with Liz

Very sharp rock, but thoroughly enjoyed the climb. Hardest move near the top.
Kingsjester - TR - 24/Sep/09 with G. Tuson

John forgot his harness so all belaying done with a sling harness. the idiot!
Pete Scott - Lead - 03/Sep/09

vertigo - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Grace Bird

Awesome route, though the bolting could have been thought out a little better. Rather irritated at myself for having fallen on a fairly straightforward part of the climb as well.
andy dunn - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09

krikoman - Lead rpt - 23/May/09 with Lindsey Austin, Greg Childs, Rick Gibbs

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Did this just after high tide, and CoffeePot didn't get wet at all, though it made lowering off more interesting that it might have been. Grabbed the third QD through fear of unbalancing, but the rest was alright, despite the runout feel.
jelaby - Lead dog - 09/May/09 with CoffeePot

Bella - TR O/S - 02/May/09 with Claire W

Ben Sidsaph - TR - 26/Apr/09

ellie macpherson - Lead - 26/Apr/09

sam8oy - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/09 with Jay

good lead by Sam, found this very technical and tricky. Fingers got cold as well
Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with sam8oy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/09

breed - Lead rpt - 08/Jan/09 with Edward Waters

thompson1000 - Lead - 2009

Jane Weir - Lead - 2009

nealh - Lead - 2009

jominator - Lead - 2009

eastley - Lead - 2009

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/08 with Milly

davesperring - TR - 25/Oct/08 with Gareth Thomas

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/08

This lead scared me - run outs on thin moves up an abrasive slab. A couple more bolts would be reasonable.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Clare

Jonathan Emett - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08 with tom

Enjoyed the "crux" section, but didn't seem any easier thereafter - would have been quite a sketchy lead
Eoinparker - TR - 28/Jun/08 with Gaby Amiel, iain ward, james easterbrook

Trisha Murphy - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/08 with Marina Unterforsthuber

very run out and therefore Very fluttery
Darren_R - Lead dog - 15/Jun/08 with Tony keith and roger

Nice climbing, but the bolt positioning would have made it a scary lead.
Julia Chatterton - TR - 14/Jun/08 with Will

Reeges - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08

Very sustained and fingery, especially if you follow the route to the left of the last clip.
krikoman - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Kev Gibbs

AndyM-LVB - TR β - 11/May/08 with Richard Hopton

richardhopton - Lead - 11/May/08 with AndyM-LVB

richardhopton - Lead - 11/May/08 with AndyM-LVB

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/May/08

breed - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/08

Hidden - TR dog - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07

Herron - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/07 with Simon Riley

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Jim Keeley

PhilWragg - Lead - 02/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead - Jun/07

My first onsight lead!
Debs1 - Lead O/S - May/07 with Lewis Maddock

Mr Powly - TR - 02/Apr/07 with Sam Bennet

ecowaller - Lead - Feb/07 with Paula

jl - Lead dog - 28/Jan/07 with Penny

Hidden - 2007

Richard White - 2007

onlytovey - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/06

Greg Pittam - Lead - Aug/06

sam8oy - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with John

quite a fingery crux but good fun
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/06 with jon

dave657 - Lead - 24/Jun/06

annakyn - Lead - Jun/06

harryt - Lead dog - 18/Mar/06 with Craig

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/06

Lev - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/06 with Emma Ross

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Lloyders - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Oct/05

timharrison - Lead rpt - Jul/05 with Corryne

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 2005

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 2005

chris murnin - Lead - 14/Oct/04

Managed about 40%...stuck on the crux, thereafter looked amenable.
Rob Oram - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/04 with Richard Davison & Simon

Hidden - Jun/04

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 2004

Marq - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/03 with Daniel Dennehy

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/03 with Rich Tree

furry - TR - 26/Aug/02 with Phil B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/01

Hidden - Lead β - 04/Sep/01

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/01 with dean howard

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/01

Hidden - TR RP - 19/Mar/00

Stone Muppet - 2000

brew_guru - TR - 1999 with jamie knight

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/97

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Pete Dangerous, fivestar, Hidden

Total votes cast 86
hard 6b0 of 48
6b0 of 48
easy 6b5 of 48
hard 6a+32 of 48
6a+10 of 48
easy 6a+1 of 48
hard 6a0 of 48
6a0 of 48
easy 6a0 of 48
3 Stars1 of 38
2 Stars5 of 38
1 Star21 of 38
0 Stars10 of 38
Bag of .....1 of 38
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Style of ascent

Lead98 of 131 (74.8%)
Followed8 of 131 (6.1%)
Toproped15 of 131 (11.5%)
Unknown10 of 131 (7.6%)

'Climbed'46 of 131 (35.1%)
clean O/S48 of 131 (36.6%)
clean β5 of 131 (3.8%)
clean rpt6 of 131 (4.6%)
clean RP4 of 131 (3.1%)
dogged16 of 131 (12.2%)
dnf6 of 131 (4.6%)