Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A fine twisting groove packs in some good hard moves. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker 19/May/1989.
Ticklists
Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tomrainbow | 26 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: How is it badly bolted? Are the bolts in too far, hard to clip, or poorly spaced? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: How is it badly bolted? Are the bolts in too far, hard to clip, or poorly spaced? |
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| Ben Thorne | 2 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route. Roof move is hard. Higher moves are great. Finally ticked the b**ch! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Amazing route. Roof move is hard. Higher moves are great. Finally ticked the b**ch! |
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| Ben Stokes | 30 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Badly bolted, but with some great climbing... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Badly bolted, but with some great climbing... |
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| stow | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the move above the roof seemed hard. Maybe I just failed to figure it out correctly. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought the move above the roof seemed hard. Maybe I just failed to figure it out correctly. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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Animal Magnetism
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lulworth)