UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

19m.

Rockfax Description
A Blacknor Far South favourite. Start at a flowstone crack. The crux takes a bit of working out. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 02/Feb/1991.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Portland sub 6b , Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's) , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , Portland Olympian - Need for Speed! , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

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User Date Notes
aiyer 1 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting at the break by the penultimate bolt. Avoid if possible for now...
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βeta: Birds nesting at the break by the penultimate bolt. Avoid if possible for now...
mosey101 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best climbs I've ever been on
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βeta: One of the best climbs I've ever been on
viking 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: lovely route - my first 6a onsight - loved the jug hauling last third after the technical crux
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βeta: lovely route - my first 6a onsight - loved the jug hauling last third after the technical crux
Wilbur 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Flashed it on saturday - middle is quite tough. What a great route though - worth 3 stars.
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βeta: Flashed it on saturday - middle is quite tough. What a great route though - worth 3 stars.
Alex More 27 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, tough side pull at mid-height but the top is great full of jugs
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βeta: Great route, tough side pull at mid-height but the top is great full of jugs
Ben Stokes 30 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A nice contrasting pitch with a great crux move which is easy when you have done it a few times.
βeta?
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βeta: A nice contrasting pitch with a great crux move which is easy when you have done it a few times.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 107
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Xavier's Wall

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

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