19m.

Rockfax Description
A Far South favourite. The crux takes a bit of working out, but the rest is steady and all on good rock. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 02/Feb/1991

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Orange Spot Portland, The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes?.


ClimberDateStyle
Michael Aylen 15/Sep/15 Lead β

Macca went first first good crux move big limbs at top

with Macca
Hidden 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/15 Lead β
philhaigh 06/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Phil Murray 28/Aug/15 Lead dog

Last route of day, ran out of gas on the crux. Bummer.

with Steve Wright
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
etrillaud 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
mjeffery 07/Jul/15 Lead rpt
ConstaBern 04/Jul/15 Lead β
Laurence Everitt 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Takacs 24/Jun/15 2nd
royle883 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S
philhaigh 16/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Jim Brooke 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Sims
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead β
Hidden 18/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/15 Lead
Marti999 23/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Debbie
martinov 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Verginia
Dawlish 02/Dec/14 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Sep/14 -
with martin broadhurst
Shane Willis 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
samparsons 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
ConstaBern 06/Jul/14 TR
pymn nice but dim 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Pete Dangerous 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Ian MK 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Maykova 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
annak 26/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead rpt
sarpedon 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Last climb of the day, route #7.

Luxulyan 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Martin
dbrooks 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jackwd 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Nice, odd top crux.

DorsetGareth 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jack D, Chris Daly-Roy, Justin Reid
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jmbonello 14/Jul/13 TR dog
redjerry 01/Jul/13 TR O/S
johnl 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Rosyk 21/Jun/13 2nd dog

technicaal middle section

Jay-Ast 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Easy climbing then a couple of hard moves, hard to grade felt like bottom half 5, middle 6a+

with Rosyk
Anastasia 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead
philhaigh 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
georgenvk 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 27/May/13 Lead rpt

Brilliant.

with Lynne Williams
innes 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ruth
akhutton88 26/May/13 TR dog

decided to TR after watching Darren struggle to work out the crux. Probably not a 6a for me.

with DARREN P
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead dnf
bonzka ?/May/13 -
SamStokes 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Top very wet, but managed to find an undercling that was positive enough to clip the lower off from at full extension.

with Jez
jezb1 01/Apr/13 Lead
Nick Russell 01/Apr/13 Lead dog

A very nice route. Very wet at the top so I resorted to pulling on the anchor to get it clipped, clean apart from this. The crux seemed very hard for 6a, but Steve and Emily did it very differently. Maybe I just made it hard for myself!

SJS 01/Apr/13 2nd
with Nick
Dan_Carroll 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Iain
kingborris 24/Feb/13 Lead dog

Cold! a little snow and icicles. rested to warm fingers back up

peterbeaumont 09/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor 27/Oct/12 Lead dog

Worked out crux OK but went too far left above and ran out of strength

with Chris Michalak
mattgrange 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
LardClimber 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
DannyK 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with chrislgk, Katie
DannyK 13/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Katie
DannyK 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Katie
jonleighton 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Vince 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
clukins 26/Aug/12 Lead β
with Alice Browne
ian caton 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Abi
brew_guru 17/Aug/12 Lead O/S
rustyfishhook 17/Aug/12 TR dog

very good route, a new favourite! Loved the features and the super quirky crux! Will return and lead one day.

Trippinjester 17/Aug/12 TR O/S
with dan, polly, paul southgate, Jamie Knight
Hidden 22/Jul/12 TR β
Adamwillclimb 22/Jul/12 Lead RP
popov86 05/Jul/12 Lead
philhaigh 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
freddy25 06/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Simone, Luke, michael
colkurtz 27/May/12 Lead
with Karin
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead β
pawelx 19/May/12 Lead O/S

The shouldery move around 4th clip (crux) is certainly a bit difficult, not 6a for me!

Hidden 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Dizz 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Richard S
lewiz 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
kirsten 11/Mar/12 2nd

One (hard) move

with Liz Wakelin, Vlad Vishnyakov, lewis thompson
Liz Wakelin 11/Mar/12 TR
with Kirsten Donovan
Abi Chard 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 17/Dec/11 Lead O/S
andrew549 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Rupey 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with toby
will black 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Shona H 09/Oct/11 Lead
with Jane Weir
el_monty 09/Oct/11 Lead RP
dan gibson 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with sam read
tscoobydoo 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 25/Sep/11 Lead

Difficult to justify the crux as 6a!A fairer grade would be 6a+

dswansonlow 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Barbour
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
odox 25/Sep/11 2nd
al99 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
martinazando 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Dunx 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Martina
JPGR 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
GREERISH 29/Aug/11 -
Joe Black 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Found this to be very hard but the people who top roped it after me made it look easy so i must just have done it wrong.

Hidden 21/Aug/11 TR
jfreeman 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 11/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 08/Aug/11 TR
EmilyElouise 05/Aug/11 Lead RP
patrickc ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Tim M 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Phil T
Lloyders ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt
senusert 26/Jun/11 TR dnf

Was too weak for the crux move. It was very hot that day!

with Chris Peka
cdpuk 26/Jun/11 TR O/S
KLucy 26/Jun/11 TR
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
fildac 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mlg678 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
tom106 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Phil Wragg, Darren Roper, Chris Bailey
Hidden 12/May/11 Lead
Ben Thorne 22/Apr/11 Lead

First time on this this century, crux was easier than I remembered (very easy in fact), just got pumped higher up. Almost 5+.

with John Pullin
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead β
JonBrown 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
miles155 27/Mar/11 TR
with Alex Neubecker
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
kenyajc 12/Mar/11 TR
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt

The seagull has left for the year...

with Mark
hippo99 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with rache
Jonathan Emett 09/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with simon
jon_gill1 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
andy jennings 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with ben
JWB 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Superb.

natalietanzer 25/Sep/10 Lead
with pete
Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Jonathan Emett 21/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead dog
JHC 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
barfani chita 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

So excited to have onsighted this one! The crux was really balancy and ballsy for a short climber, but a super awesome end of the day.

with Saurus
Saurus 15/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead
mikeconway 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
becster 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

A really balancy move in the middle

matthewjames 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with James Chapman, Fabian Pilgram
timharrison 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tom, Iain Moodie, Suse
SMc 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anne
Tom_Harding 13/Jun/10 TR dog
with Tim H
Pete Scott 09/Jun/10 Lead β

In skate shoes

Lyndsay Superclimber 09/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Andy
Hidden 09/Jun/10 TR rpt
JKay 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S
candicegallab 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
decs 05/Jun/10 AltLd RP

I exploded a hold off the crux. Doesn't make it much harder though.

with Dave Potter
Hidden 05/Jun/10 TR dnf
jan.prostrednik 30/May/10 Lead rpt
with Lukas Marcin
bsavage 20/May/10 Lead rpt

A gr8 climb crux was tricky but once worked not to hard but nice whipper when flashed pumped on 1st attempt :P. After this open up to some very enjoyable climbing. Really gem of a climb

with Alan
bsavage 20/May/10 Lead dnf
with Alan
Don Jebus 19/May/10 Lead O/S
joese7en 19/May/10 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 17/May/10 Lead O/S
mick1jones 16/May/10 Lead O/S
jan.prostrednik 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Runkasova Jana
Barry Kerslake 13/May/10 Lead rpt
with Jo F
Will Homoky 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Werenfrid Wimmer
RFWilkie 03/May/10 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Bob 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with G. Macauley
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Apr/10 Lead RP
ian d f 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/09 2nd
dh4096 ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tomB 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jody
embob 18/Sep/09 Lead

Danced around far too long at the crux, got through it, and then fell. Prob not the best choice for a warm up = Flash pump. Fab route though.

with Alex
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd β
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead β
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead
michael burrows 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Lallylandslider 12/Sep/09 2nd dnf
tedj234 03/Sep/09 Lead
with Kate Campbell
Peterjuliandawson 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S

good climb massive buckets in the middle

Hidden 31/Aug/09 -
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead β
mynameisjen 17/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead
JonBrown 26/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Tiff
TiffTiff 26/Jul/09 Lead rpt
JPGR ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Ceridwen 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Micael
michpaulatto 27/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S

The seagull nest half-way up had an egg in it. Hope I didn't traumatize the mother too much, although she must be getting used to it by now.

with Clare
jamespilgrim 21/May/09 Lead

Be warned that the seagull mentioned below is still in residence, which may cause some entertainment.

with Mark
vertigo 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan
JonBrown 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Tim
dmoir 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Jus 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead rpt
danm 13/Apr/09 Lead
nugski 11/Apr/09 Lead RP

Had a shocking day climbing really. Kept falling at one place which i couldnt understand. was really struggling withj this mive. fell on the first go then yanked myself through it. then just could get passed that move for about another 5 goes. i was going to give up then had one last go and made it easy. was missing such an easy hold. i was also climbing rubbish and my head was not in the game at all. rubbish. pleased i got it at the end though.

with sash, grant and lee
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Glaister
AsleepOnBelay 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable - the only surprise was the seagull that launched out of a hole at me.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd
trev_f 15/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Ed
Ed Babs 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Trevor
Dandan82 ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Zoe
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
jl 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Penny
Hidden 15/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/08 TR dog
Ben Harper 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
chris sm 16/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with Steve Wright
FrostyWebb 14/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Hannes
Jonathan Emett 07/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Mike
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
sam_cox ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
nevostevo 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S

there was a bird nesting in one of hte big juggy holds..... i got covered in vomit!

with andy
Hidden 27/Jul/08 TR O/S
trev_f 16/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Steve Taylor
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jul/08 TR dnf
Matt Bennett 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
John Marsland 26/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Goi
Vince 20/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Iain Cattanach
andy jennings ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
nawface ??/2008 -
jw231 27/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 11/Oct/07 Lead dog

lead to chimney, then lowered-off, then top-roped past chimney and lead to top.

Hidden 08/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
ecowaller 11/Aug/07 -
with Paula
ecowaller 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paula
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
jl 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 07/Jul/07 2nd
with Jon
bigie bob 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
chris sm 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
steve taylor 14/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Stephen Roberts 06/Apr/07 -
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
JPGR 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Matt P
thomb ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Harry
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 19/Nov/06 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Caine
tobydunford 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith, Lisa Paling
Marq 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
viking ??/2006 Lead O/S
with wilbur
Derek Furze ??/2006 -
Wilbur ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Caine
viking ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Hidden ?/Apr/05 -
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2005 Lead
furry 19/Sep/04 TR
with Phil B
Owen W-G 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Colin
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead
Bruce Kerr 14/Feb/04 Lead
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 15/Sep/03 Lead
with Tim Dunsby
goi.ashmore 22/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
just one more 06/Apr/03 Lead
with tim b, Max B
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
lost.arrow 23/Mar/02 -
Hidden 15/Dec/01 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Aug/01 Lead dog
with david
shoulders 31/Jul/01 Lead
with SUZANNE
Hidden 21/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Lead
AlexD 27/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/00 Lead O/S
John Southworth 28/May/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 02/Apr/99 Lead
Mark Kemball 09/Apr/98 2nd
with Jason Lloyd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/96 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden 07/Apr/96 Lead
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/95 -
Ben Thorne ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Rich Howard
steve taylor ?/Feb/91 Lead β

First new route on Portland

with Eamonn Flood
steve taylor ?/Feb/91 Lead β
with Eamonn Flood
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
s1362083, dsefton1403, AshleyLong, georgel, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, Adam Perrett, kateg2009, joshchalke, Sebastien Gastaud, Jeremy Crampin, Hidden, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, Warren Earle, Hidden
Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 82
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set