Rockfax Description
A Far South favourite. The crux takes a bit of working out, but the rest is steady and all on good rock. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 02/Feb/1991

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Orange Spot Portland.

Michael Aylen 15/Sep Lead β

Macca went first first good crux move big limbs at top

with Macca
Hidden 15/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep Lead β
philhaigh 06/Sep Lead rpt
Phil Murray 28/Aug Lead dog

Last route of day, ran out of gas on the crux. Bummer.

with Steve Wright
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
etrillaud 11/Jul Lead O/S
mjeffery 07/Jul Lead rpt
ConstaBern 04/Jul Lead β
Laurence Everitt 24/Jun Lead O/S
Takacs 24/Jun 2nd
royle883 19/Jun Lead O/S
philhaigh 16/Jun Lead rpt
Jim Brooke 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Chris Sims
Hidden 23/May Lead β
Hidden 18/May Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr Lead
Marti999 23/Mar Lead rpt
with Debbie
martinov 22/Mar Lead RP
with Verginia
Dawlish 02/Dec/14 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Sep/14 -
with martin broadhurst
Shane Willis 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
samparsons 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
ConstaBern 06/Jul/14 TR
pymn nice but dim 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Pete Dangerous 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Ian MK 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Maykova 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
annak 26/Oct/13 Lead dog
Dan_F 29/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Still a fun route and much easier than the last time I climbed it..

with philipb
sarpedon 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Last climb of the day, route #7.

Luxulyan 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Martin
dbrooks 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jackwd 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Nice, odd top crux.

DorsetGareth 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jack D, Chris Daly-Roy, Justin Reid
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Curly Rich 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with GMC Peter Neden, GMC JohnP
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jmbonello 14/Jul/13 TR dog
redjerry 01/Jul/13 TR O/S
johnl 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Rosyk 21/Jun/13 2nd dog

technicaal middle section

Jay-Ast 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Easy climbing then a couple of hard moves, hard to grade felt like bottom half 5, middle 6a+

with Rosyk
Anastasia 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead
philhaigh 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
georgenvk 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 27/May/13 Lead rpt


with Lynne Williams
innes 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ruth
akhutton88 26/May/13 TR dog

decided to TR after watching Darren struggle to work out the crux. Probably not a 6a for me.

Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead dnf
bonzka ?/May/13 -
SamStokes 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Top very wet, but managed to find an undercling that was positive enough to clip the lower off from at full extension.

with Jez
jezb1 01/Apr/13 Lead
Nick Russell 01/Apr/13 Lead dog

A very nice route. Very wet at the top so I resorted to pulling on the anchor to get it clipped, clean apart from this. The crux seemed very hard for 6a, but Steve and Emily did it very differently. Maybe I just made it hard for myself!

SJS 01/Apr/13 2nd
with Nick
Dan_Carroll 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Iain
kingborris 24/Feb/13 Lead dog

Cold! a little snow and icicles. rested to warm fingers back up

peterbeaumont 09/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor 27/Oct/12 Lead dog

Worked out crux OK but went too far left above and ran out of strength

with Chris Michalak
mattgrange 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
LardClimber 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
DannyK 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with chrislgk, Katie
DannyK 13/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Katie
DannyK 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Katie
jonleighton 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Vince 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
clukins 26/Aug/12 Lead β
with Alice Browne
ian caton 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Abi
brew_guru 17/Aug/12 Lead O/S
rustyfishhook 17/Aug/12 TR dog

very good route, a new favourite! Loved the features and the super quirky crux! Will return and lead one day.

Trippinjester 17/Aug/12 TR O/S
with dan, polly, paul southgate, Jamie Knight
Hidden 22/Jul/12 TR β
Adamwillclimb 22/Jul/12 Lead RP
popov86 05/Jul/12 Lead
philhaigh 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
freddy25 06/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Simone, Luke, michael
colkurtz 27/May/12 Lead
with Karin
Dan_F 26/May/12 Lead β
pawelx 19/May/12 Lead O/S

The shouldery move around 4th clip (crux) is certainly a bit difficult, not 6a for me!

Hidden 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Dizz 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Richard S
lewiz 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
kirsten 11/Mar/12 2nd

One (hard) move

with Liz Wakelin, Vlad Vishnyakov, lewis thompson
Liz Wakelin 11/Mar/12 TR
with Kirsten Donovan
Abi Chard 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 17/Dec/11 Lead O/S
andrew549 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Rupey 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with toby
will black 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Shona H 09/Oct/11 Lead
with Jane Weir
el_monty 09/Oct/11 Lead RP
dan gibson 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with sam read
tscoobydoo 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 25/Sep/11 Lead

Difficult to justify the crux as 6a!A fairer grade would be 6a+

dswansonlow 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Barbour
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
al99 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
martinazando 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Dunx 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Martina
JPGR 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
GREERISH 29/Aug/11 -
Joe Black 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Found this to be very hard but the people who top roped it after me made it look easy so i must just have done it wrong.

Hidden 21/Aug/11 TR
jfreeman 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 11/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 08/Aug/11 TR
EmilyElouise 05/Aug/11 Lead RP
patrickc ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Tim M 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Phil T
Lloyders ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt
senusert 26/Jun/11 TR dnf

Was too weak for the crux move. It was very hot that day!

with Chris Peka
cdpuk 26/Jun/11 TR O/S
KLucy 26/Jun/11 TR
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
fildac 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mlg678 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
tom106 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Phil Wragg, Darren Roper, Chris Bailey
Hidden 12/May/11 Lead
Ben Thorne 22/Apr/11 Lead

First time on this this century, crux was easier than I remembered (very easy in fact), just got pumped higher up. Almost 5+.

with John Pullin
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead β
JonBrown 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
miles155 27/Mar/11 TR
with Alex Neubecker
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
kenyajc 12/Mar/11 TR
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt

The seagull has left for the year...

with Mark
hippo99 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with rache
Jonathan Emett 09/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with simon
jon_gill1 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
andy jennings 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with ben
JWB 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S


natalietanzer 25/Sep/10 Lead
with pete
Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Jonathan Emett 21/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead dog
JHC 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
barfani chita 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

So excited to have onsighted this one! The crux was really balancy and ballsy for a short climber, but a super awesome end of the day.

with Saurus
Saurus 15/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead
mikeconway 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
becster 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

A really balancy move in the middle

matthewjames 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with James Chapman, Fabian Pilgram
timharrison 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tom, Iain Moodie, Suse
SMc 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anne
Tom_Harding 13/Jun/10 TR dog
with Tim H
Pete Scott 09/Jun/10 Lead β

In skate shoes

Lyndsay Superclimber 09/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Andy
Hidden 09/Jun/10 TR rpt
JKay 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S
candicegallab 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
decs 05/Jun/10 AltLd RP

I exploded a hold off the crux. Doesn't make it much harder though.

with Dave Potter
Hidden 05/Jun/10 TR dnf
jan.prostrednik 30/May/10 Lead rpt
with Lukas Marcin
bsavage 20/May/10 Lead rpt

A gr8 climb crux was tricky but once worked not to hard but nice whipper when flashed pumped on 1st attempt :P. After this open up to some very enjoyable climbing. Really gem of a climb

with Alan
bsavage 20/May/10 Lead dnf
with Alan
Don Jebus 19/May/10 Lead O/S
joese7en 19/May/10 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 17/May/10 Lead O/S
mick1jones 16/May/10 Lead O/S
jan.prostrednik 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Runkasova Jana
Barry Kerslake 13/May/10 Lead rpt
with Jo F
Will Homoky 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Werenfrid Wimmer
RFWilkie 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Bob 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with G. Macauley
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Apr/10 Lead RP
ian d f 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/09 2nd
dh4096 ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tomB 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jody
embob 18/Sep/09 Lead

Danced around far too long at the crux, got through it, and then fell. Prob not the best choice for a warm up = Flash pump. Fab route though.

with Alex
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd β
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead β
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead
michael burrows 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Lallylandslider 12/Sep/09 2nd dnf
tedj234 03/Sep/09 Lead
with Kate Campbell
Peterjuliandawson 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S

good climb massive buckets in the middle

Hidden 31/Aug/09 -
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead β
mynameisjen 17/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead
JonBrown 26/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Tiff
TiffTiff 26/Jul/09 Lead rpt
JPGR ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Ceridwen 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Micael
michpaulatto 27/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S

The seagull nest half-way up had an egg in it. Hope I didn't traumatize the mother too much, although she must be getting used to it by now.

with Clare
jamespilgrim 21/May/09 Lead

Be warned that the seagull mentioned below is still in residence, which may cause some entertainment.

with Mark
vertigo 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan
JonBrown 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Tim
dmoir 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Jus 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead rpt
danm 13/Apr/09 Lead
nugski 11/Apr/09 Lead RP

Had a shocking day climbing really. Kept falling at one place which i couldnt understand. was really struggling withj this mive. fell on the first go then yanked myself through it. then just could get passed that move for about another 5 goes. i was going to give up then had one last go and made it easy. was missing such an easy hold. i was also climbing rubbish and my head was not in the game at all. rubbish. pleased i got it at the end though.

with sash, grant and lee
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Glaister
AsleepOnBelay 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable - the only surprise was the seagull that launched out of a hole at me.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd
trev_f 15/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Ed
Ed Babs 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Trevor
Dandan82 ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Zoe
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
jl 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Penny
Hidden 15/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/08 TR dog
Ben Harper 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
chris sm 16/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with Steve Wright
FrostyWebb 14/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Hannes
Jonathan Emett 07/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Mike
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
sam_cox ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
nevostevo 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S

there was a bird nesting in one of hte big juggy holds..... i got covered in vomit!

with andy
Hidden 27/Jul/08 TR O/S
trev_f 16/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Steve Taylor
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jul/08 TR dnf
Matt Bennett 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
John Marsland 26/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Goi
Vince 20/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Iain Cattanach
andy jennings ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
nawface ??/2008 -
jw231 27/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 11/Oct/07 Lead dog

lead to chimney, then lowered-off, then top-roped past chimney and lead to top.

Hidden 08/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
ecowaller 11/Aug/07 -
with Paula
ecowaller 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paula
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
jl 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 07/Jul/07 2nd
with Jon
bigie bob 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
chris sm 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
steve taylor 14/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Stephen Roberts 06/Apr/07 -
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
JPGR 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Matt P
thomb ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Harry
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 19/Nov/06 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Caine
tobydunford 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith, Lisa Paling
Marq 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
viking ??/2006 Lead O/S
with wilbur
Derek Furze ??/2006 -
Wilbur ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Caine
viking ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Hidden ?/Apr/05 -
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2005 Lead
furry 19/Sep/04 TR
with Phil B
Owen W-G 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Colin
Bruce Kerr 14/Feb/04 Lead
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 15/Sep/03 Lead
with Tim Dunsby
goi.ashmore 22/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
just one more 06/Apr/03 Lead
with tim b, Max B
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
lost.arrow 23/Mar/02 -
Hidden 15/Dec/01 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Aug/01 Lead dog
with david
shoulders 31/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Lead
AlexD 27/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/00 Lead O/S
John Southworth 28/May/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/99 Lead
Mark Kemball 09/Apr/98 2nd
with Jason Lloyd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/96 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden 07/Apr/96 Lead
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/95 -
Ben Thorne ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Rich Howard
steve taylor ?/Feb/91 Lead β

First new route on Portland

with Eamonn Flood
steve taylor ?/Feb/91 Lead β
with Eamonn Flood
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dsefton1403, AshleyLong, georgel, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, Adam Perrett, kateg2009, joshchalke, Sebastien Gastaud, Jeremy Crampin, Hidden, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, Warren Earle, Hidden
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 82
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set