UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

19m.

Rockfax Description
A superb sustained line with a stiff finish if taken direct. Begin as for Fear's Younger Brother at a flowstone crack. © Rockfax

FA. Helen Heanes Apr/1998.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
naylers 6 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Start to finish was a fun route. Tough final section, deserving of 6b grade if taken directly imo, slightly easier if you work your way to the left to reach the anchor bolts.
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βeta: Start to finish was a fun route. Tough final section, deserving of 6b grade if taken directly imo, slightly easier if you work your way to the left to reach the anchor bolts.
mosey101 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route with a tough pumpy finish
βeta?
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βeta: Amazing route with a tough pumpy finish
Ben Stokes 25 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: There's a knee bar on the direct finish which makes life a lot easier. There's still a fingery hang to clip the LO, but your arms will have a little more in them. Also getting your weight to the right helps when clipping the LO.
Show beta
βeta: There's a knee bar on the direct finish which makes life a lot easier. There's still a fingery hang to clip the LO, but your arms will have a little more in them. Also getting your weight to the right helps when clipping the LO.
Wilbur 21 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fair enough at 6a+. Brilliant route as well..
βeta?
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βeta: Fair enough at 6a+. Brilliant route as well..
Ben Stokes 30 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Probably the best route at the grade on the island... well apart from Stalkers Zone maybe
βeta?
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βeta: Probably the best route at the grade on the island... well apart from Stalkers Zone maybe
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Ben was pushing his grade! (only joking ben) Must have been in good nick!
βeta?
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βeta: Ben was pushing his grade! (only joking ben) Must have been in good nick!
Tom Beaumont 24 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The finish would be a stopper if you're pushing your grade on this route, the rest is fairly easy for 6a+. Great climbing though, go do it!
βeta?
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βeta: The finish would be a stopper if you're pushing your grade on this route, the rest is fairly easy for 6a+. Great climbing though, go do it!
Alan James - Rockfax 3 Apr, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: The finish of this route is really quite hard for 6a+. Keep left to make it a bit easier but you still have a fingery hang to clip the belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The finish of this route is really quite hard for 6a+. Keep left to make it a bit easier but you still have a fingery hang to clip the belay.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Unseen Ripples of the Pebble

Grade: 6b ***
(Winspit)

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