UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

21m.

Rockfax Description
The long-admired thin flake right of Cerebellum. The flake is very thin, but has been tested by some heavy climbers. © Rockfax

FA. Ben Stokes 22/Mar/2002.

Ticklists

Portland

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User Date Notes
brian watson 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Crazy boom flake, how long will it last . . . . . . .
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crazy boom flake, how long will it last . . . . . . .
Ben Stokes 25 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I tried to remove the flake immediately after the FA. After a few tentative efforts I ended up placing my feet next to my hands and pulling as hard as I could. The fact the flake is still there shows how effective that was...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I tried to remove the flake immediately after the FA. After a few tentative efforts I ended up placing my feet next to my hands and pulling as hard as I could. The fact the flake is still there shows how effective that was...
Richard Horn 24 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I am nearly 13 stone and it didnt appear in any danger of coming off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I am nearly 13 stone and it didnt appear in any danger of coming off.
Jus 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Pile o' choss getting up to the flake but it wort it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pile o' choss getting up to the flake but it wort it!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buoys will be Buoys

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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