UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

33m, 2 pitches. Start at the foot of the abseil from the top of The Ramp, 40ft right of the starting point of The Ramp.
1) 4b. Climb a slab and a crack to a short corner leading to the faultline. Possible belay.
2) 4b. Climb up the chimney with care, and up to the small roof, then bear left and up the earthy bank to the belay stakes.

FA. R.J.Crewe, K.Winkworth 1974.

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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