Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A very good pitch from start to finish. The technical wall and pleasant groove culminate in a final pull onto the headwall using a vertical runnel. © Rockfax
FA. Neal Heanes Mar/2002.
Ticklists
A Guide for Progress in Dorset , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Thomas & Alex Portland Olympian Oct22 , Portland Olympian , Dorset 2-3* 6a's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lloyders | 1 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice varied route. Tough for the grade due to the start. The 'Hollow' block seemed fine when i was hanging from it! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice varied route. Tough for the grade due to the start. The 'Hollow' block seemed fine when i was hanging from it! |
||||
| nealh | 31 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: the hollow block always was glued in (i,e. I rienforced this when I bolted the route even though I couldn't get it to move). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: the hollow block always was glued in (i,e. I rienforced this when I bolted the route even though I couldn't get it to move). |
||||
| steve taylor | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: FA was Helen Heanes! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: FA was Helen Heanes! |
||||
| Wilbur | 22 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: very tough start at the grade. The rest is pleasant and low in the grade though! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: very tough start at the grade. The rest is pleasant and low in the grade though! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Stalker's Zone
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)