Rockfax Description
A line near the left-hand edge of the buttress climbs it in four long pitches. Start 50m up the slope to the left of the groove of Mygga. There is some very bold slab climbing early on and good cracks higher up.
1) N4, 50m. Pad up the slabs until they steepen, to eventually reach a belay on the left at a small tree.
2) N6-, 55m. Climb up the buttress, then go round the right side of the ear-shaped feature that dominates the left-hand side of the buttress. Belay on small ledges above the ear.
3) N6, 25m. The thin crack above gives excellent climbing.
4) N4+, 30m. Move up and leftwards to a well-positioned jamming crack in the arete overlooking the gully. Finish up this. © Rockfax
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Lundeklubben
Grade: n6 ***
(Festvågveggen)