|135m, 5 pitches. |
135m. A route up the lower section of the ridge. Scramble to he base of the pillar and start at a crack behind the trees at the lowest point of the cliff.
1) 4+, 20m. Climb the crack to a belay ledge with a small bush at its right-hand end.
2) 4+, 40m. Step onto the slab and traverse right (poor protection) to reach a black vein. Climb this a to a ledge with spikes then traverse right along ledges to a stance on a ledge beneath a short cracked wall.
3) 4+, 25m. Move left and climb cracks to a big ledge. Move left up a groove then left again onto a short slab leading to a large ledge. Flake belays.
4) 3, 25m. Trend left up a rising crack onto an easy slab and head up this to a large grassy ledge - nut belay.
5) 3, 25m. Following a rising traverse head for a large spike at the left edge of the buttress. Drop down and right (facing out) to a small grassy bay and a belay.
Descent - Abseil of a square spike (sling in situ) 40m into the gully and descend this, cutting back under the face to the starting place. © ROCKFAX
Pauline Bird and Donna Thopmson 24/Jul/2000