|28m. 28m. (Memory Crack) The hardest trad route on Lofoten - this fearsome overhanging roof crack makes Yosemite's famous Separate Reality look a bit feeble. The climbing is safe enough with enough cams but it will tax the strongest of climbers, and unless you are a really proficient jammer - then you might as well forget it! |
Start at the right end of the ledge with blocks and flakes under the roof and climb up to reach the crack. Follow it past a little niche and past a flake to a crucial thin section, beyond which the crack becomes vertical and a ledge can be reached. Getting onto the belay ledge is all part of the fun. Recovering the gear is another problem! © ROCKFAX
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