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|Lofoten > Vagakallen >|
|Storm Pillar|| n7+ a3|
|865m, 18 pitches. An almost free ascent of the left-hand side of the face on superb rock. Pitch 11 may eventually go free at around 7c+ with pre-placed gear. Gear needed is a set and half of cams (to 4), a full set of nuts and RPs, lost arrow and knife-blade plus hooks. The first ascent team thought it would make an awesome candidate for a one day ascent, though the second ascensionists were less sure - portaledges will probably needed by most teams. Start to the right of the fall-line from the pillar where a white left-trending and left-facing groove offers a way to outflank the huge black overhangs directly under the pillar.
1) 6-, 50m. Climb leftwards up the groove to belay.
2) 7-, 40m. Continue left with hard moves through the roofs.
3) 7, 25m. Head left (bolt) past the base of the long flake/groove system of Freya to a stance beyond it.
4) 6-, 30m. Move left and climb a groove to ledges.
5) 6+, 40m. Trend left across the slabs to a stance under the big diagonal overhang - serious.
6) ?, 30m. Trend up and right to a stance. No grade given.
7) 6+, 60m. Break through the overhangs and continue to a stance in the grass fields above.
8) 6-, 45m. Continue up the rocky buttress above to reach ledges at the First Bivi-site.
9) 7, 55m. Cross the gully then climb the steep groove to the base of the soaring corner above.
10) 7+, 55m. The fantastic overhanging corner gives a magnificent pitch.
11) 7, 50m. Continue up the black corner to the Second Bivi-site on a stance at the base of a steep crack.
12) A3, 55m. Aid climb the steep crack in the smooth steep wall, with some hard free moves in the middle of the pitch.
13) 6+/A1, 35m. Climb over a roof and on to stance below the 'Fab Flake'.
14) 6+, 50m. The Fab Flake is followed out right then back left to a stance in the base of a long groove.
15) 6+, 45m. The groove leads to the base of a huge square block perched on the wall.
16) 6+, 30m. The 'Tunnel Pitch' heads behind the huge block. The top of this was the Third Bivi-site.
17) 6-, A2+, 55m. Aid up the crack then free climb to a stance at by a big block.
18) 6, 60m. Climb right then left, past a roof, then move back right and climb to the point where Storpillaren comes in from the right.
19) -, 55m. The last pitch of other routes gains the summit. © ROCKFAX|
This climb is in no logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Jonas Wiklund