Rockfax Description
An almost free ascent of the left-hand side of the face on great rock. Pitch 12 may go free at around 7c+ with pre-placed gear. Take a set and a half of cams, a full set of nuts and micro-wires, lost arrow and knife-blades plus hooks. The first ascent team thought it would make an awesome candidate for a one-day ascent but portaledges will probably be needed by most teams. Start to the right of the fall-line from the pillar where a white left-trending and left-facing groove offers a way to outflank the huge black overhangs directly under the pillar.
1) N6-, 50m. Climb leftwards up the groove to a belay.
2) N7-, 40m. Continue left with hard moves through the roofs.
3) N7, 25m. Head left (bolt) past the base of the long flake/groove system of Freya to a stance beyond it.
4) N6-, 30m. Move left and climb a groove to ledges.
5) N6+, 40m. Trend left across the slabs to a stance under the big diagonal overhang - serious.
6) N7, 30m Trend up and right over slabs to a stance.
7) N6+, 60m. Break through the overhangs and continue to a stance in the grass fields above.
8) N6-, 45m. Continue up the rocky buttress to the First Bivvi.
9) N7, 55m. Cross the gully then climb the steep groove to the base of the soaring corner above.
10) N7+, 55m. The fantastic overhanging corner is a great pitch.
11) N7, 50m. Continue up the black corner to the Second Bivvi on a stance at the base of a steep crack.
12) A3, 55m. Aid climb the steep crack in the smooth steep wall, with some hard free moves in the middle of the pitch.
13) N6+/A1, 35m. Climb over a roof and continue to a stance below the 'Fab Flake'.
14) N6+, 50m. The Fab Flake is followed out right then back left to a stance in the base of a long groove.
15) N6+, 45m. The groove leads to the base of a huge square block perched on the wall.
16) N6+, 30m. The 'Tunnel Pitch' heads behind the huge block. The top of this was the Third Bivvi.
17) N6-/A2, 55m. Aid a crack then climb to a stance at a block.
18) N6, 60m. Climb right then left past a roof, then move back right and climb to where Storpillaren comes in from the right.
Descent - Follow Storpillaren to the summit, or abseil. © Rockfax

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