Rockfax Description
A major undertaking up the central groove system on the pillar. The first ascent - which was filmed - took five days. Originally the climb had three pitches of aid which required a lot of small gear. The only decent bivvi ledges are above pitches 7 and 21. Apart from the belay bolts (which provide a viable escape route) the climb has minimal fixed gear. The route was free climbed in 2015 to make into an even more impressive undertaking. Some of the crucial pitches were run together to remove hanging stances.
1) N6-, 50m. Climb leftwards to a belay.
2) N7-, 40m. Continue left with hard moves past an overhang.
3) N7, 45m. Head left (bolt) to the base of the long flake/groove system and belay a short way up it.
4) N7-, 45m. Climb the groove past some loose blocks.
5) N7-, 35m. Continue up the groove.
6) N6+, 40m. More groove and flake climbing with an excursion out left at about one third height. Bolt belays.
7) N4, 40m. Easier ground leads to a block belay and the site of the First Bivvi.
8) N2, 60m. Head left to gain the big grassy ramp, then climb this to a belay.
9) N4+, 65m. Continue to bolt belays at the top of the ramp.
10) N6-, 30m. Climb past the right-hand side of a roof and up a crack to a good stance. Bolt belays.
11) N6-, 60m. Slabby rock leads to a stance at the base of the Y-fork in the road. Follow cracks and slabs leftwards to a stance at the base of the huge groove system - bolt belays.
12) N7-, 50m. Climb the left wall of the groove, past loose blocks, until it is possible to get back right into the groove. The right-hand side of a small overhang leads to a good small stance - the Second Bivvi.
13) N8-, 30m. Desperate climbing up the groove.
14) N8-, 40m. More of the same, then move out right onto a pillar.
15) N8, 30m. Move round the arete and climb the thin peg-crack (bolts) that splits the 'mirror' slab, to a hanging stance. Fixed bird beaks and pegs plus plenty of small wires are necessary.
16) N8-, 60m. Cracks lead past an old a bolted belay, then climb past the side of the huge roof, and the right-hand side of the next one with difficulty, then follow an easier crack to a double-bolt belay on the huge ledge system.
17) 20m. Traverse left along the break to a great stance in an overhung niche - the perfect Third Bivvi.
18) N6+, 25m. Climb the back of the niche then exit left and climb the crack then the left-curving crack to a double-bolt stance back on the right. An X-rated death pitch according to the team.
19) N6-, 60m. Climb leftwards over loose rock, then climb a huge groove, exit left to its top. Continue to a stance on the shoulder.
20) N6, 60m. This is pitch 18 of Storm Pillar. Climb right then left, past a roof, then move back right and climb to the point where pitch 9 of Storpillaren comes in from the right.
Descent - From here either follow Storpillaren to the Summit, or descend by abseil. © Rockfax
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