Rockfax Description
An equally good experience to Pinch an Inch. Climb to positive holds in the groove. Make a series of technical moves up and right and then back left before easier ground and a lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy and Pete Oxley 08/Aug/1987

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Hidden 25/Oct Lead O/S
Gloria 29/Aug Lead O/S

Climbed and threaded in the rain, low crux

with Bekah Ryder
SDM 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Michael
Hidden 19/Jul Lead RP
robfir 11/Jul -
etrillaud 11/Jul Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Jul Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 09/Jul Lead RP
with Steph, Sam Ferguson
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
Billg 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Nik Goile
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
evans859 19/Jun Lead RP
Raisinbake 19/Jun Lead rpt
matthenj 19/Jun Lead RP
with Rosie Yates
lewiz 13/Jun Lead rpt
with Beata
Hugobristol 01/Jun Lead O/S
with Liam
BillyDavies 17/May Lead O/S

Great moves

Sam4242 16/May Lead O/S
sam_craddock 04/May Lead β
with Phil Belcher
Hidden 08/Apr Lead β
dominic lee 14/Mar -
with andy elliot
BenL ??/2015 Lead O/S
jezb1 29/Nov/14 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
nathanlee 08/Sep/14 Lead

Great intro to Portland! Pulled a hold off below the first bolt and decked...

with DWS Crew
lewiz 06/Sep/14 Lead β
with Radek
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
samparsons 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tiffanykate12 29/Jun/14 2nd

1 fall, 2nd bolt.

maybe_si 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Matt
Matt Bennett 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
ConstaBern 07/Jun/14 Lead
Robin Brooke ?/Jun/14 Lead
TomRiddelsdell 30/May/14 Lead β
islandlynx 30/May/14 Lead RP
Rupey 26/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead β
ConstaBern ??/2014 Lead
Hidden 06/Dec/13 Lead O/S
hankyc 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jas128 18/Sep/13 TR dog
khalidq 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

Done twice, fell each time in different places, all moves worked including crafty thumb hole!

nataliehaigh 24/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Vicky Hau, Tammy Pay
Nick Clement 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
eckleysam 08/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Robert
rd20 08/Aug/13 Lead dog

Rested between 2 and 3 bolts

with Sam
pezzerrr 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt
EmilyElouise 28/Jul/13 2nd RP
Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jay-Ast 19/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Rosyk
cameron_hall 01/Jun/13 Lead β
with Luke Castiglio
Julesthe1st 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tania
Ian Bell 18/May/13 TR dog

1 fall. TR as bad ankle.

with Mikael
philhaigh 16/May/13 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Natalie Haigh
nataliehaigh 16/May/13 Lead dnf
philhaigh 09/May/13 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
Cat Hendrie 06/May/13 -
nataliehaigh 06/May/13 2nd rpt
philhaigh 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh
nataliehaigh 05/May/13 2nd dog
marcb 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ed Ratcliffe
Jobbo 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Alex, Matt Carwardine
Luxulyan 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tess Lyons
SamStokes 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Ciro 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Solly
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead O/S
nblackbeard 27/Oct/12 Lead dog

1 fall. Didn't give it enough respect as I thought it was a 6a (which turned out to be to the left). Thought it was a little stiff for 6a :-p. Technical climbing which eases up the higher you go.

Hidden 29/Sep/12 TR dog
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
will moy 09/Sep/12 Lead RP
with sophie
Haydn Jones 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
Jake Young 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
redjerry 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
brices 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Gav
anjaclaire 15/Jul/12 Lead RP

first clean lead 6B and/or 6B+, stoked! technical, flowy moves, though slightly reachy for short people like me.

misterb 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S


with justin
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
burto 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with steve
nataliehaigh 17/Jun/12 2nd RP

I'd been on the bottom part of the climb before according to my logbook, but I don't remember it. I was told it was a 6a so I got on as a second and climbed it. Found it hard, but couldn't believe it when I was told afterwards that it was a 6b+ - I've never climbed one clean before! Now I'm working on building up the confidence to lead it.

with Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Rob Kennard, Terry Finlay, Eddy Young, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Phil Haigh
Mr Powly 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Rozzy
Tru 19/May/12 Lead RP
pelvoux 19/May/12 TR O/S

Last climb of the day

with Natalio
rxmac 05/May/12 Lead O/S
philhaigh 30/Apr/12 Lead RP
nataliehaigh 30/Apr/12 TR dnf
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
drewish 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S


Abi Chard 01/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2012 -
Nevil ??/2012 TR
Graham C 23/Nov/11 Lead

Ground up

with Marti
Jonathan Emett 20/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Paul
tradguy 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Toby Dunn 15/Oct/11 Lead
with Sophie Nunn
Jonathan Emett 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with toby
Sophie Nunn 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Toby
dan gibson 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Rupey 15/Sep/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 15/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with rupe
Alex Mason 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Superb climbing, really flowing.

with Dan Gibson
Takacs 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Jack Brougham
Brian H 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead dog
jfreeman 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 12/Aug/11 Lead β
dswansonlow 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John Tanner
jbulger 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
embob 01/Aug/11 Lead

Inch Perfect (6b) in the CC guide? Nice, technical climbing. I'm sure the direct version on a mono wasn't necessary! Good contrast to the routes on Blacknor. AE, FBC.

with Alex
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Lead
sarpedon 31/Jul/11 Lead dog

Last climb of the day, a bit too tired for a clean onsight.

felixthelion 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S


with Dan craig
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
gibsond 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

Good technical route - lots of fun.

Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead dog
Lyndsay Superclimber 14/Jun/11 Lead RP

1st 6b+ lead :-)

PeterDawson 04/Jun/11 TR
Jonathan Emett 17/May/11 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
Hidden 17/May/11 TR rpt
Hidden 14/May/11 TR O/S
KDhruev 05/May/11 Lead RP
Kyle F 05/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 01/May/11 TR
with Steve Cousins
hotfeet 25/Apr/11 TR

one fall

Alison2 20/Apr/11 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Robin Head 02/Apr/11 TR O/S
with James R
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
robandian ?/Apr/11 -
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Mar/11 TR RP
Tomar 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt
el_monty 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Si
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Martin Brierley 12/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 08/Mar/11 Lead
with James the Navigator, Colin
tobydunford 05/Mar/11 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

good moves shame its not longer

Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 06/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with Mike G
Hidden 24/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
michael burrows 30/Sep/10 TR dog
tania 05/Sep/10 TR
with mike
Jonathan Emett 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with mike pinney
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mlg678 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Nice..some reachy moves made it feel hard for me but also the fact it was technical was in my favour.... 6b+

with Mikey G
eugeneth 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Tomar 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
bbrowne 26/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Kelly Atkin
nickwhimster 19/Jun/10 Lead dog

1 fall

with Matt Barnet
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
JKay 07/May/10 Lead
sparkass 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with John Bent
Hidden 27/Apr/10 TR dog
mikeshewring 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
London Luke ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
sam_cox 08/Mar/10 Lead β
trev_f 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Mike H
andy jennings 07/Mar/10 Lead β
with ben
Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead
chris sm 30/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Ian Butterworth
Ben Vieyra ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
jld579 ??/2010 Lead
jh123 ??/2010 -
Spacetourist ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Ian JL 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Matt
chris sm 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Tim M 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mynameisjen 18/Aug/09 Lead dog
hippo99 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with rache, joe
mjeffery 28/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead RP
pawelx ?/Jul/09 Lead RP

first 6b+

tobydunford 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 27/Jun/09 Lead dog
with Gary Lewin
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 06/Jun/09 Lead β

Good bouldery sequence, quite low in the grade.

with Tom
clgladiator 29/May/09 Lead O/S
with trev_f
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead dog
Vince 25/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Paul Ashley
briar4012 12/Apr/09 TR dog
with Michael
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd dog
trev_f 06/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Maddy
trev_f 04/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Andy
Mr Tickle 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S

awesome technical moves. Night climb

with davenev
Ben Harper 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 20/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Harry
Ed Babs 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Trevor
trev_f 07/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Ed
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd dog
Mowglee 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Rich
EmmanuelF 28/Feb/09 Lead
trev_f 19/Feb/09 Lead rpt
with Andy
schof 19/Feb/09 -
with harry massey
feilx 24/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with Andy L
Sparky!!!3 03/Jan/09 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
BenNorman ??/2009 Lead O/S
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Pete Sanger ??/2009 TR dog
with chris
jl 29/Dec/08 Lead dog
with Penny
bigbobbyking 24/Oct/08 Lead RP

Felt easy on the red point once I'd worked out my sequence. Felt so smooth that I almost forgot to clip the second bolt, Mark was shitting himself watching!

with Mark Tomlinson
Matt Shepherd 16/Oct/08 Lead O/S
steve taylor 02/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead
MarkRyder 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/08 TR dog
Hidden 06/Jul/08 Lead O/S
chris sm 15/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with andy elliot
trev_f 29/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon
garburn 18/May/08 Lead RP
with Heather Rogers
bpmclimb 02/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Mark
vertigo 10/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Cat Higgs
Sophie Nunn 27/Nov/07 Lead
chris sm 11/Aug/07 Lead RP
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 21/Jul/07 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/07 Lead RP
dmoir 19/May/07 Lead O/S
feilx 19/May/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 19/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
_m.cox_ ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
AlexD 11/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead β
ASchwirtz 11/Mar/07 TR O/S
trevor macalonan 22/Feb/07 Lead dog
with Matt P
bigie bob 17/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
steve taylor 23/Dec/06 TR
with mark reeves
JPGR 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Paul
lukea 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with dan
Hidden 07/Aug/06 TR O/S
nathanmanc 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead RP
givemetea 05/Jun/06 2nd dog
with Ann Chong
aged_ape ?/May/06 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods ?/May/05 Lead rpt
with Wilbur
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead dog
Owen W-G 16/Apr/05 Lead RP

Clean on second attempt.

with Rigby
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
rob.grafton 16/Aug/03 Lead
with Simon Wood, Jim, Bruce
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 04/Jun/02 Lead β
goi.ashmore 15/May/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
shoulders 26/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/01 Lead
migs493 27/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 23/May/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
Neil R 29/Mar/97 Lead
with Richard W
phardman 27/Mar/97 Lead O/S
buzby78 18/May/96 Lead RP
Roget 10/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Lyn
rob.grafton 28/May/95 Lead
with Bruce
Mark Kemball 12/Mar/95 Lead O/S
Dringo ??/1995 -
Ben Thorne ??/1995 Lead RP

Great moves. Still think this is THE benchmark Portland 6b and no harder.

with Rich Howard
Nigel Coe ?/Jun/93 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Rich2002, mop449, Adam Perrett, kateg2009, Hidden, Hidden, cha1n
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 82
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set