Rockfax Description
The rounded groove is a fine climb. The pocketed groove passing - but not using - the doorknob, leads to the upper break. Make some steep and committing moves to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13/Nov/1988

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Hidden 15/Aug Lead
Hidden 09/Aug Lead
Hidden 08/Apr Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr Lead β
dominic lee 14/Mar -
with andy elliot
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
TomRiddelsdell 20/Jul/14 Lead RP

The guide book showed the finish as to the right of the chains, but after searching around the only way I could find was via a tough move to the felt of the chains. Great route!

Matt77 20/Jul/14 Lead dog

Felt a bit out of shape on this one. Got the moves dialed so should do it next time.

with Tom Riddelsdell
3 Names 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 05/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia
TomRiddelsdell 30/May/14 Lead dog

Fell on the last move on both attempts. May have been able to skip the very nasty crimp if I had a bit more reach. Going to have to come back for another shot at this one!

islandlynx 30/May/14 Lead β
RadekNowak 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Fight at the beginning. Upper section doable even for shorties.

Hidden 15/Oct/13 TR dnf
Nick Clement 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead RP
RFWilkie 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Tough top move

cameron_hall 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Incredibly sharp holds, and couldn't figure out how to bridge around the doorknob.

with Luke Castiglio
cameron_hall 01/Jun/13 TR dog

Even with a toprope and beta, it was move by sodding move...

with Luke Castiglio
nath_casper 26/May/13 Lead RP
Montse Shelbourne 26/May/13 Lead RP

Nice climb, trying to clip to the last bolt is hard for short people .. not many foot holds

with Nathan
bonzka 23/May/13 Lead RP

Second go. Felt easy-ish 6c., Nice route though. Finish is ok if trust the mono.

Hidden 18/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead rpt
philhaigh 16/May/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia
Hidden 16/May/13 TR rpt
AlexRenshaw 06/May/13 Lead
brices 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Maya, Ben Vowles, Jamie
drcorbasisgod 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Tess Lyons
burto 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
Hidden 09/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead β
Marti999 24/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Graham C 24/Sep/12 Lead

Ground up

with Marti
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mark20 26/Aug/12 Lead β
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead
Alex Mason 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing until the last, long move to a greasy mono.

with Laura Perry
Owen W-G 12/May/12 Lead O/S

First portland 6c os, poss softie but hard finał move

with Roger
pezzerrr 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with roslyn mckendry
allydonald ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead dog
dswansonlow 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John Tanner
Gareth Bowen 08/Aug/11 Lead dog

Fell on last move on first RP, will finish.

with Aleksandr
jbulger 06/Aug/11 Lead dog
ian-rad 21/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Got to last bolt with 2 rests, Could almost touch the anchor, but could not complete final reachy move.

Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

with a temporary assist from the bedknob

with Lyndsay
trevor macalonan 22/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
J.Wells 17/Apr/11 Lead β
Bristoldave 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with LukeW
Ciro 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
Luke Dawson 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

super reachy 7a if your about 5 foot

Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Spacetourist ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mlg678 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Will_Maxwell 22/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena
DrGav 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Fumbled a bit then somehow crimped through the low crux. Finale seems to have a choice of two clips ( clipped the one on the left - seemed to be safer, and follows the CC line ) - and is pretty tough with mono plus polish!

with Wendy
MarkRyder 09/May/10 Lead RP
with Rich
Billg 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
vertigo 13/Mar/10 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
AlexD 02/Aug/09 Lead dnf

couldn't reach loweroff, nice climbing up till there though

Siderunner ?/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Popped a joint in my finger on second crux pocket

with Jill
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Lead RP
Ed Babs 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S
tobydunford 28/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
barni 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Northern
briar4012 16/Jun/09 TR dog
with Marti
embob 12/Apr/09 2nd

Door knob used for hands AND feet!

with Alex
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead
mattcyp88 28/Feb/09 Lead β

Had to work hard. 3/5

feilx 24/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with Andy L
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
trev_f 21/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Ben
Matt Bennett 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
schof 22/Jun/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
steve taylor 19/Jun/08 TR
dmoir 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
garburn 03/Jun/08 Lead RP
Ben Harper 03/Jun/08 Lead RP
dannyboy83 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Ian Bruce
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
sam_cox ?/Jul/07 Lead β
timharrison 17/Jun/07 Lead dog
hippo99 ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S

hard move low down ... dont grab the door nob !

rubben 29/Apr/07 Lead dog
bigie bob 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
feeko 28/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/07 Lead β
chris sm 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 25/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
steve taylor 23/Dec/06 Lead rpt
with mark reeves
JPGR 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Paul
givemetea 05/Jun/06 2nd dog
with Ann Chong
Hidden 08/Apr/06 Lead dnf
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
Richard Horn ??/2006 Lead RP
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Nathan Kemp ?/Oct/05 -
Nathan Kemp ?/Oct/05 -
Hidden 18/May/05 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/03 Lead β
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 07/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
phardman 29/Mar/97 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
Hidden 07/Apr/96 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Mar/96 Lead
with Jason
Ben Thorne ??/1996 Lead O/S

Hardest onsight by a mile at the time. I'm only 5'9" but found the top easy, just committing. Sill think it's only 6b.

with Rich Howard
AndySL ??/1996 Lead RP
with Mark
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/95 Lead dog
with Lyn
Hidden 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Roget 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Mark Kemball 12/Mar/95 Lead O/S
Didymus 24/Oct/93 TR dog
with Martin
rob.grafton ??/1993 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, lewiz, mop449, Rich2002
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set