Rockfax Description
Another gem. Climb through the low overhangs with difficulty, then continue up the sustained wall above to a wide corner. Follow this to a steep finish past a pocket. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 10/Jul/1990

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Mike_Hayes 30/Apr Lead O/S
with Ben Meakin
Hidden 03/Apr Lead
Kipper-Phil Smith 21/Mar Lead

Top quality route worth 3 stars

with Shaun
Graham Westbrook 14/Mar Lead β
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Aug/15 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/15 Lead rpt
EmilyElouise 21/Jul/15 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead rpt
EmilyElouise 06/Jul/15 Lead dog
Rockmonkey1977 06/Jun/15 Lead β

Warm up climb, clip stocked first 2 bolts.

MichaelConstantinou 06/Jun/15 Lead dog
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead dog
Linc 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with louis
RFWilkie 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
afrosam 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 TR rpt
Luxulyan 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Abi
Trisha Murphy 21/Mar/15 Lead β

Had way to many clips in for this to be a real lead. Had rope in for the hard bit at the start

TomJ 21/Mar/15 Lead RP
with TomS, Jonny_86
Toby Dunn ??/2015 -
Tommyads ??/2015 -
Murilo Lessa 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Daniel James
Murilo Lessa 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Daniel James
Murilo Lessa 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Daniel James
BenL 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
adam 24 25/May/14 Lead O/S
RadekNowak 25/May/14 Lead RP

tried first time year ago, now did it first go

stp 23/May/14 Lead O/S

Crux of the route by far is the move to get a hold that you clip the second bolt from with the wrong hand. This makes the route contrived and it would probably be a grade easier if the bolt was moved so as to allow sensible clipping.

with Alan
tobydunford 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
philhaigh 21/Apr/14 Lead RP

TR O/S warm-up first

with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd rpt
trev_f 29/Sep/13 Lead β
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead RP
Pathological_Climber 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Good, better than it's left neighbor.

Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead RP
Dibdawg 28/Jul/13 Lead β
with Tom Vassen, Pete Clark
paultaylor 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
adamjeffs 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 18/May/13 Lead β
drcorbasisgod 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
brices 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Lisa, Gav
burto 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
Max Lowry ??/2013 Lead RP

Second Go.

Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead β
jonleighton 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tedj234 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Kate
ThomasB ?/Jul/12 Lead RP
lewiz 26/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead β
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 13/May/12 Lead RP

2nd go. foot slimed off the first move.

drewish 13/May/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 25/Sep/11 Lead rpt

2nd try. Slightly overambitious as a warmup.

with Rob
BicepAndrews 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Dandan82 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead β
givemetea 15/Sep/11 TR dog

Fluffed up the move to the anchor jug. there is a great hand jam which I totally missed and pumped out trying to figure out a different sequence.

dan gibson 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with roslyn mckendry
Laurence Everitt 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jack Brougham, Josh Daymond
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
lewiz 21/Aug/11 Lead dog

So close! Had to rest about half way just before the epic break & rest. If I'd known I'd have run out as the clip was tricky. Book said F6c+ but easier

mishtu 21/Aug/11 2nd
with lewiz
natalietanzer 06/Aug/11 Lead dog

Tried this after pump hitler - start felt desperate!

with will
dswansonlow 01/Aug/11 Lead dog
with John Tanner
jgustafsson 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Warmup, though felt fairly tough around the second bolt.

with Jen
tuftynick 29/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead β
Hidden ??/2011 -
Brian H 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead
London Luke 11/Jul/10 Lead
with Si
colkurtz 11/Jul/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
dannyboy83 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead dnf
tobydunford 20/Feb/09 Lead dog
with Angus
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Matt Bennett 05/May/08 Lead dog

was wet

La Mont ??/2008 -
rubben 21/Oct/07 Lead dog
Docent 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with pudel
lukea 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Fred
Richard Horn 15/Apr/07 Lead RP
feilx 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Steve P
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
guyblackwood 05/Aug/06 Lead dog
with David, Ricardo, Olga
bigie bob 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
goi.ashmore 27/Apr/04 Lead RP
with Ben Merryfield
Hidden 23/Mar/03 2nd dog
steveb2006 07/Sep/02 Lead

Also Grez - all lead

with Paul Eastwood
The Jazz Butcher ??/2002 -
Hidden 27/May/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, mop449, Pete Dangerous, Hidden, Hidden
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set