Rockfax Description
Exciting situations combined with technical climbing. Climb up and stretch past the low roof. Continue up the sustained wall to a blanker section of rock. Clip a high bolt, then traverse left on finger pockets before rocking up into a small corner. A final balancy wall and roof round off this great pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 14/Apr/1993

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist.

Rockmonkey1977 15/May Lead RP

Absolutely awesome climb, so many different sections and styles. It felt very stiff for 7a+ to me, I'd actually give it a solid 7b but this is Portland...

Misha 01/May Lead dog
with Ed
Mike_Hayes 30/Apr Lead dog

Pumped from a day climbing

with Ben Meakin
Albachoss 17/Apr Lead RP
with Angus
Glyn 13/Apr Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden 03/Apr Lead
Graham Westbrook 14/Mar Lead RP
Bristoldave 10/Jan Lead RP

1st Rp

with Luke
Albachoss ?/Oct/15 Lead dnf
with Andrea
ian1234567 20/Sep/15 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Jul/15 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 21/Jul/15 2nd dog
marcduhig 19/Jul/15 Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
chakrit 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Amazing route

anthony henry 04/Jul/15 Lead RP

One of Portland's best

with kel, Andy, Chris, Ali
chrisscutt 04/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Kelly, ant
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead RP
Andy Smallwood 04/Jul/15 Lead dog
Andy Smallwood 03/Jul/15 Lead dog
JCAshman ?/Jul/15 Lead
John_Beesley 18/Jun/15 Lead dnf

All of us got stuck on the rock-over move after the pockets. Couldn't get the clip before so were taking some pretty big, but safe, lobbers! Seemed definitely too hard for 7a+? Will try again when we return!

with Freddie Erskine, GeneralFifi, James 'pyjamas'
GeneralFifi 18/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't quite figure out the traverse on the pockets, felt pretty pumpy as well, definitely need more endurance for this. Really fun climb though! One to come back to

with Freddie Erskine, John Beesley
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 05/Jun/15 Lead dog

Absolutely desperate for 7a+ surely? Felt even harder than Countdown! Fantastic climbing though once worked out, especially the mono traverse, will be back to finish it. Bolts are a nightmare to clip onsight.

Rich Kirby 28/May/15 Lead O/S
with Helen
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 07/May/15 Lead dog
with Ed B, Alex
AlexD 07/May/15 Lead RP
with Phil, Ed, Sophie
jonleighton 04/May/15 Lead RP
Matt.c.Warner ?/May/15 Lead RP

raining, 2nd go,

jacobjohncharles ?/May/15 Lead RP
Fraser hill-casey 17/Apr/15 Lead RP
RFWilkie 05/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Mar/15 TR rpt
Luxulyan 22/Mar/15 Lead dog
with Abi
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead
Jon_Warner 21/Mar/15 Lead RP

Great to come back and get this. Sustained, committing, a good dose of shale scrabbling, and not to mention a thuggy finish. Portland classic 7a+/7b.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Skipped the high clip in favour of glory, sure clipping it would have constituted the hardest move on the route by far!

dominic lee 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
Toby Dunn ??/2015 -
Tom Corras ??/2015 Lead
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Sep/14 TR dog
philhaigh 10/Sep/14 Lead RP
philhaigh 29/Aug/14 2nd dog
Jon_Warner 28/Aug/14 Lead dog

The pump (or crux clip) got me this time. But I'll be back. Cool route.

with Jonny
Julie Carroll 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Cristiano Costa
Hidden 25/Jun/14 Lead RP
AlexD 11/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Ed
philhaigh 11/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Lee Mercer, Alex Dennis, Ed Babs, Shamina Kapadia, Natalie Haigh
quiffhanger 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Pleased to get the retro-flash of this as a warm-up.

phillipwright ?/Jun/14 Lead dog

Hardest and pumpiest 7a+ in the UNIVERSE!

with Dom Joyce
adam 24 25/May/14 Lead dog

Still can't link it. Got the crux beta sorted again, but was burned out and the conditions got a little worse.

Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd RP
Sophie Nunn 29/Sep/13 Lead dog
with Phil, Martin
Luxulyan 29/Sep/13 Lead dog
with Bex
Hidden 22/Sep/13 TR dog
Viki Claudia Harvey 01/Sep/13 Lead

Finally ticked...so pumpy!

with Rachel Keys
quiffhanger 31/Aug/13 Lead RP

2nd go after missing the pockets and attempting a v7 direct version of the crux!

Nick Clement 12/Aug/13 Lead RP
with mandy clement
Garrouli 10/Aug/13 Lead RP
Dibdawg 28/Jul/13 Lead dnf
with Tom Vassen, Pete Clark
adamjeffs 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
adam 24 15/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
lewiz 26/May/13 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 18/May/13 Lead β
drcorbasisgod 26/Apr/13 Lead dog
Jeronimo 19/Apr/13 Lead β
with Dave Westlake
Kopinski ?/Mar/13 Lead RP
anthony henry ??/2013 Lead dnf
Tommyads ??/2013 -

Deservedly top 50

jonleighton 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Wasn't feeling strong/psyched enough for the crux.

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt

This is never 7a+ in my book, I climbed easier 7b+ in Spain, Greece, Canada and USA. I'd give it a solid 7b

Justin T 01/Jul/12 Lead dog

Clean to the crux... quite cruxy and hard to do putting clips in. Looked like blood in the monos which is a bit disconcerting.

Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead dnf
lewiz 26/May/12 Lead dog

Holy shit. Best get some more training in.

Ed Babs 24/May/12 Lead RP
with Niels, Iain Moodie
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead β
tedj234 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Kate
Spacetourist 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Si Brice
dan ely 26/Mar/12 Lead dog

nearly but i traversed onto other route (still 7a+ hard) at cux. Wondering if anyone else went that far out.

with Jay81
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Brian H 16/Oct/11 Lead RP

Second redpoint. Pumpy but no very hard moves. Difficult clip best made after crux as the fall is quite safe (as I found out on first RP attempt). Hard 7a+

Linc 24/Sep/11 Lead dog
Dandan82 24/Sep/11 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead dog
pezzerrr 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead RP
Ian Bell 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Decided to give it a go. Absolutely nails. Don't think I'm up to 7a+ yet!

with Jasmina
jfreeman 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 12/Aug/11 Lead dog

The clip feels far too far away when you're pumped. Appropriately named though.

natalietanzer 06/Aug/11 Lead dog

Hard to read crux, super pumpy, but didnt find any tricky clips.

with will
ThomasB ?/Aug/11 Lead RP
Mike_Hayes 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Jonathan Emett 30/Jun/11 TR dog

1 go, too many rests to count

with darryl, bern
Bern 30/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Jonathan, Darrell
tom106 27/May/11 Lead RP
with tom, ivan
Hidden 27/May/11 TR dog
Pippa 14/May/11 2nd dog
with Jon
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead RP
jacobjacob 09/Oct/10 Lead β
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Unfortunately i misinterpreted the guidebook and moved left beneath a draw too early. This felt about 7a+ this way. On way down tried the proper version, would deffo be 7b this way, especially having to clip that distant bolt.

with Laura Perry, Duncan Campbell, Mikey G
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead RP
Ian Broome 02/Jun/10 Lead dog

Hard for the grade if Englands dreaming is same grade? Quite tricky Intricate crux. Getting clip in was v.hard. recommend pre placing from the route to the right before hand

with Matt
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead β
marcpontin ?/May/10 Lead dog
with huw
Hidden 05/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Sep/09 TR dog
mark_wellin 25/Sep/09 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard 08/Aug/09 -
with Jane Weir
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead dog
feilx 12/Jul/09 Lead RP
dannyboy83 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 09/Jun/09 TR dnf

Fine but completely out of fingertips/energy! Will try again in future.

derico 09/Jun/09 Lead RP

Hung draws as abbed down to brush sandy holds and had play on lower part of crux, then lead first go. Quality route and had to really fight through final part of crux section!

with Jonny
SiW ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead RP
Marti999 02/Apr/09 Lead RP
feilx 16/Nov/08 Lead dog
with Matt Perks
eddieclimb 12/Jul/08 Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Jason Parker
Martin Krasnansky 15/Jun/08 Lead RP

2.try ,greasy

Richard Horn 05/May/08 Lead RP
robyn1 ??/2008 -
La Mont ??/2008 -
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead β
dan gibson 15/Apr/07 Lead RP
with jon redshaw
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 15/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 TR dog
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
innes ??/1999 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Dave Pickford
Mike Owen 28/May/95 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ferdi, Jack Shewring, Matthew Davies, Edward Kwong, Hidden, Matti Puckridge, Ellie Fuller, GeneralFifi, Dean177, Hidden, LouisJones, samparsons, Hidden, stp, Rich2002, Hidden, Hidden, jsaric, Hidden, theloringharvey, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, RFWilkie, JCAshman, Hidden, paultaylor, Tom Gale, Ian Bell, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, guyblackwood
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set