A long stamina-route that is one of the region's best grade 6 sport climbs. Move up to the overhang and negotiate it on the right before heading up the wall above to a corner with a good crack in it. Climb the corner and the left-trending groove above to a roof and swing right along the breaks until it is possible to pull up onto the headwall and finish rightwards. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 10/Jul/1990
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Failed to read the guidebook before setting off and consequently messed up the top trying to continue straight on.
Best route I did in Portland! Fantastic climbing.
warm up. good and long. glassy at the top.
|Luke Owens||23/Jul||Lead O/S||
Best of the grade I've ever done, incredible!
|Ian Bell||18/Jul||Lead β||
4 years since the last try so will award myself retro flash! Excellent and pumpy.
Should have onsighted this but got freaked out by the grease on the top ledges!!! Quality route.
First break is slippy, go for the top
|Andy Smallwood||04/Jul||Lead β|
|jack adams||?/Jul||Lead O/S|
|Matti Puckridge||27/Jun||Lead G/U||
People rave about this climb. With good reason. Tricky top.
|Edward Kwong||27/Jun||Lead RP||
Fun route, solid moves and holds, worthy of the stars. For the crux at the top before the traverse right, use the first slippery ledge as an intermediate, go quickly to the second higher ledge just above the bolt to clip (left hand jug).
Didn't fancy the run out at the end.
Freddie Erskine, Rosie Yates
Pumpy as f***
Brilliant climbing, really enjoyable route! Fell at the greasy breaks on first attempt, worked it out on a toppie then 1st rp.
|Rich Kirby||28/May||Lead O/S|
|Nick Russell||10/May||Lead O/S||
Great route. Felt fair (though not easy) at 6b+.
|Sophie Nunn||07/May||Lead rpt|
Greasy but a good route.
|Ben Russell||05/Apr||Lead β||
Can't really say it was onsight (locals giving beta and watched jack on it). Soft for the grade.
|Trisha Murphy||22/Mar||Lead dnf|
Great climb, committing move at the end, best hope you are not to pumped! There are some great rests where you can almost fully recover. I spent a lot of time here as i wanted the onsite!
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||15/Mar||Lead O/S|
2nd try. Took a massive lob from last bolt first go. Excellent route with a big feel.
Tom Riddelsdell, Shane
So pumped by the top and took the wrong sequence going through the roof. Gutted. Beautiful route.
|Beefy Bert||??/2015||Lead RP|
Tony Lam, Luke Walsh
Mark Wilson, Luke Robinson
|Gem Minihan||20/Sep/14||TR dog||
Vic Hau, Barry Kerslake
An unfortunate visit to the A&E when Jon smashed his hand up.
Mat Coburn, Jon Didymus
Fantastic route. I was so pumped after the crux coming out of the corner that the last few moves were a bit desperate. Thank god for the ledge shortly before the chains!
|Murilo Lessa||20/Jul/14||Lead dnf||
Couldn't move off the small dishes to traverse right towards the finish.
Hung about below the ledge far too long and pumped out, took a fall pulling up onto the ledge. Will get it clean next time...
|Leiko Miura||29/Jun/14||Lead rpt||
Really annoyed to not get this. Didn't know the top juggy ledge was good enough so fell first time. Tried twice more but too tired.
Lola, Remi Richards, Dan S
Hindsight from 5 years ago - dead easy this time ;-)
Lovely route, must come back to lead
|Pete Dangerous||25/May/14||Lead RP||
Great climb, like others on this cliff, that has a bigger feel to it than its length would suggest.
|Ian MK||05/May/14||Lead dog|
|martin one||05/May/14||TR dog||
|Anna Maykova||05/May/14||TR dnf|
really good route, nice and long, thought i'd run out of steam/warmth but managed to hold on for the massive ledge.
|Leiko Miura||06/Oct/13||Lead O/S||
|Sophie Nunn||29/Sep/13||Lead rpt||
|Luis SD||06/Sep/13||Lead O/S|
|chris j||05/Sep/13||Lead O/S|
Very good climb and not too pumpy if you utilize the rests.
So very close ... after a few repeats I'd worked out the sequence for the last few moves. Will go, just need to build up the stamina and remember the sequence.
|Graham Westbrook||28/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
|Nick Sherring||26/Aug/13||Lead rpt||
Brilliant sustained pumpy climbing, more like being in Europe! Only downside is the one greasy ledge below the last bolt, took a juicy fall off that on first go. Clipped from the second ledge above scond time, and managed to get through the final pumpy traverse and rockover to the belay. Great route.
Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins
|will moy||12/Jul/13||Lead RP||
|Graham Booth||14/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
Amazing route, bit polished over the first overhang!
2nd attempt, fell from the very top on the onsight, missed the massive jugs somehow!
Ed Babs, Vicki Hau
|Luke Dawson||18/May/13||Lead O/S|
I just couldn't commit at the roof.
|adam 24||?/May/13||Lead RP|
|Joe Innes||29/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
Pumpy!! My first route at Portland
Pumped at the top, was touch and go to get the onsight.
The climb got progressively harder and I got progressively colder in the 30 mph wind. Great route though!
|Brian H||21/Oct/12||Lead rpt||
|Adam Booth||21/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
Absolutely brilliant. Continuously cool and steady climbing. A decent 30m sport route in the UK?? Who'd have thought it!
|James Oswald||03/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
One of the best 6b+s I've done. Aceness
Jake shaw, Liam, Mark Rankine
|Jake Young||26/Aug/12||Lead rpt|
Really good but hard crux. 6c? Was very hot..
Found the move onto the ledge hard, then easy climbing to the crux. Crux is okay when you know how! Run out at the end going off to the right to join shared loweroffs (but good jugs to be found along the break).
|Justin T||01/Jul/12||Lead β||
Hard at the top!
fell off the top great climbing
|dan gibson||28/Jun/12||Lead rpt||
|Julie Carroll||28/Jun/12||Lead RP||
Steve Hau, Mike Hawkins
Shame to have rested but great route.
Lead it up to the crux, went down and tried it later on top rope. Know the top move now, will lead it all the way next time
|Owen W-G||12/May/12||Lead dnf||
Andy Long pointed out the move to the right near the top
Vlad Vishnyakov, Owen John
Had one rest below the top. Awesome, awesome route! The rock changes as you move higher, some of it is quite sandy. The top feels quite exposed as you move right and that you're going to fall miles!
|Ducks Rock||19/Nov/11||TR dnf|
|Sophie Nunn||15/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
|Brian H||09/Oct/11||Lead rpt|
Fell pumped silly from the slopey break at the top.
Absolutely superb route! Another party had left quickdraws in and kindly let me use them (thanks again!). Clipped the last bolt but went too far right to the ledge and missed the good holds, head and arms gave out by the time I moved back across (didn't fancy going for it and taking the big pendulum swing). Quick shake and then finished it off. SO close to the onsight...
|Carnie Lisa||03/Sep/11||2nd dog||
DOne with clips taken out as we didn't want to lose them and I was the last to climb. Clean up to the sort of gully but came off twice, decided it wasn't worth swinging off and having to come back on so decided to leave for another time. Very cool up to there though
|Laurence Everitt||03/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
Jack Brougham, Josh Daymond
|Joe Black||24/Aug/11||Lead β||
Flash at the end of a hard day serious pump but plenty of rests saw me though. Great climbing with a hard upper section but easy bottom.
|Ian Bell||21/Aug/11||Lead dnf||
As completion of warm up pre failing on Pump Hitler.
|Brian H||14/Aug/11||Lead rpt|
|John Tanner||02/Aug/11||Lead dog||
Felt fairly comfortable this time.
|brian watson||09/Jul/11||Lead rpt|
Two more attempts. I'm sure I've got the sequence now, but was too tired to try again today.
|Jonathan Emett||30/Jun/11||Lead O/S|
Have got the crux move worked out so should get RP next time. Can't want - great route.
|brian watson||11/Jun/11||Lead O/S||
|Paul Eckton||11/Jun/11||Lead RP|
Incredible! Felt strong but arms gave way 4/5 up and really struggled with the roof. Couldn't climb again for the rest of the day.
|Mr Sparkle||21/May/11||Lead O/S|
|Martin Cleaver||17/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
popped off just before the chains, should have tied it earlier in the day.
James the Navigator, Colin
|adam cooper*super*||22/Jan/11||Lead O/S||
sweet route, was freezing all the way up it, got a cheeky knee bar in there too!
Pump at the finish beat me - take more rests next time
Dave and Lee
|Claire S-J||16/Sep/10||2nd dog||
was exhausted! will have to come back for it
|Sami Mandeel||08/Aug/10||Lead rpt||
|Duncan Campbell||08/Aug/10||Lead β||
Onsight apart from the fact the draws were in...a tricky bitt the top and bottom but basically really steady. a perfect end to the best day of sport climbing ive ever had! pumpy is not my style and i feel i could have eaily put he draws in and still cruised it....thanks for a awesome day mikey, mason, laura, eugene etc!
Had to sit on the rope a few times to get through the top couple of clips.
|barfani chita||17/Jul/10||TR dnf|
|Barry Kerslake||18/Jun/10||Lead RP||
|Ian Broome||02/Jun/10||Lead O/S|
Felt piss this time, wonder why I fell off before...?
Ben Harper, Gideon Mordecai
Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
|michael burrows||14/Sep/09||TR dnf||
|eddie coughlin||12/Sep/09||Lead dnf||
|chris sm||02/Aug/09||Lead O/S||
Fell off at the last bolt before the lower, found myself on a really slimy hold, Every time I took one hand off the other started sliding until 5 took a whipper!
|Morgan Woods||05/Jul/09||Lead rpt||
Feels tough as a warmup.
Jim & Mark
No hard moves. Sustained
|Ed Babs||07/Mar/09||Lead O/S|
|Alex More||??/2009||Lead β|
|Matt Shepherd||16/Oct/08||Lead O/S|
Happy i acheived this as last time i attempted this route i dnf, very intricate last section leading to a easy lower-off! Pumpy and Sustained 6B+
Stamina problems. Good long fall though!
|Morgan Woods||29/Jun/08||Lead RP||
Brilliant route which i got to do an extra lap on to get the draws out.....much easier than my first attempt a few yrs ago.....tricky(ish) crux helped by a left sidepull to gain the roof. def not worth 6c.
not so straightforward at the grade, good, varied climbing
|Matt Bennett||05/May/08||Lead O/S|
Got too pumped 1 bolt from the top blowing the onsight - gotta sort out that stamina!
Great climb!!! Did it before capable of doing so...really good though!
|Oliver Sherman||21/Jul/07||Lead dog||
Had some trouble getting to (and past) the penultimate clip. Think I didn't get the holds right. Hmm... Have to go back.
|Richard Horn||15/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
|dan gibson||15/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
Ha! At last! Great climb.
|Alex Mason||18/Jul/06||Lead O/S||
just scraped the onsight here was total pumped through crux trying to get an arm bar rest just after crux. good effort.
|bigie bob||14/May/06||Lead O/S|
|Jon Greengrass||??/2006||Lead O/S|
|Nathan Kemp||?/Oct/05||Lead O/S||
|Morgan Woods||?/Jun/05||Lead dog||
|Kev Little||??/2004||Lead O/S|
|Southern Mark Smith||??/2002||-|
|John Southworth||01/Jul/01||Lead O/S|
|Martin Dale||??/1999||Lead O/S|
|Ben Thorne||??/1998||Lead RP||
Slightly sandy/cruxy right in the middle.
|Mark Kemball||12/Mar/95||Lead dog||