Dorset > Battleship Back Cliff >
 
Buoys will be Buoys*** 6b+

Adjacent Climbs
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[Si Hudson on Buoys will be Buoys, 2 kb]27m. A long stamina-route that is one of the region's best grade 6 sport climbs. Move up to the overhang and negotiate it on the right before heading up the wall above to a corner with a good crack in it. Climb the corner and the left-trending groove above to a roof and swing right along the breaks until it is possible to pull up onto the headwall and finish rightwards. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Oxley 10.7.90 10/Jul/1990

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, Summer 2013 Ticklist..

Photo: Si Hudson on Buoys will be Buoys © StuM
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 295 logbooks, and on 40 wishlists.

Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Rosyk

Rosyk - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/13 with Jay astbury

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/13

Amazing.
spidermonkey09 - Lead RP - 11/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/13

Ian Fidd - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13 with Zoe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/13

tomB - Lead dog - 27/May/13 with Jody

lewiz - Lead rpt - 26/May/13 with Pete Gagie

artmal - Lead RP - 26/May/13

innes - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Ruth

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

John Postlethwaite - Lead O/S - 13/May/13 with liam

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

Hidden - Lead β - 05/May/13

I just couldn't commit at the roof.
marcb - Lead dnf - 04/May/13 with Ed Ratcliffe

adam 24 - Lead RP - May/13

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

Pumpy!! My first route at Portland
Joe Innes - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Simon Brice

brices - Lead β - 29/Mar/13 with Joe Innes

Pumped at the top, was touch and go to get the onsight.
Ciro - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Solly

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/13

AndrewJamesCherry - Lead - 2013

Jobbo - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12 with Leon. D

The climb got progressively harder and I got progressively colder in the 30 mph wind. Great route though!
JackMac - Lead dnf - 27/Oct/12 with andy south devon

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Oct/12

Absolutely brilliant. Continuously cool and steady climbing. A decent 30m sport route in the UK?? Who'd have thought it!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Saurus - Lead RP - Oct/12 with Barfani Chita

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/12

tomB - Lead dog - 16/Sep/12 with Juliette

alexspurling - Lead dog - 16/Sep/12

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

Vince - Lead RP - 09/Sep/12 with jon

One of the best 6b+s I've done. Aceness
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Jake shaw, Liam, Mark Rankine

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - Sep/12 with Tom Murrell

Jake Young - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/12 with The Wald

mark20 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12

liam - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Mark R

GPN - Lead - 22/Aug/12 with Annette

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12

climbhannahclimb - TR - 20/Aug/12 with Iain Adams

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Jul/12

Really good but hard crux. 6c? Was very hot..
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 27/Jul/12

CRiddiford - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/12 with Becca

Hidden - TR dog - 27/Jul/12

Evie - Lead β - 26/Jul/12 with Jack

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Jul/12

Found the move onto the ledge hard, then easy climbing to the crux. Crux is okay when you know how! Run out at the end going off to the right to join shared loweroffs (but good jugs to be found along the break).
kateg2009 - Lead dog - 22/Jul/12 with Dave Robinson

Jay81 - Lead RP - 15/Jul/12 with Vertigo1

Hard at the top!
Justin T - Lead β - 01/Jul/12

fell off the top great climbing
misterb - Lead dog - 01/Jul/12 with justin

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/12 with julie carroll

Julie Carroll - Lead RP - 28/Jun/12 with Dan Gibson

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Grant

nataliehaigh - 2nd dnf - 20/Jun/12 with Steve Hau, Mike Hawkins

Linc - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/12 with Carnie Lisa, Dan verge

Easy 6c
lewiz - Lead rpt - 26/May/12 with Vlad Vishnyakov

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/May/12

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Kate

Shame to have rested but great route.
yarrow - Lead dog - 20/May/12 with Mark C

Lead it up to the crux, went down and tried it later on top rope. Know the top move now, will lead it all the way next time
pelvoux - TR O/S - 19/May/12 with Mumtaz

Alex More - Lead - 17/May/12 with Ed babs

Owen W-G - Lead dnf - 12/May/12 with Roger

Danny Crump - Lead - 12/May/12 with Mia Aweng

Marti999 - Lead rpt - 08/May/12 with Dr Steve

waynem1985 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Andy Long pointed out the move to the right near the top
cameronmcloughlin - Lead dog - 06/May/12

Fantastic route! soft for the grade, jugs all the way.
adamjeffs - Lead O/S - 04/May/12

Marti999 - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/12 with Dr Steve

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dog - 01/Apr/12 with Dave

samfayers - TR dog - 01/Apr/12 with sars

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12

lewiz - Lead dog - 10/Mar/12 with Vlad Vishnyakov, Owen John

Peter Dickinson - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Matt Welsh

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Feb/12

Hinchrn - TR dog - 29/Jan/12 with Matt Rust

rustaldo - Lead rpt - 29/Jan/12 with Tom Hinch

may have had a cheeky rest. awesome, awesome route. happy to do this again and again.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Alex

matt perks - 2012

Dan Brown - 2012

Ducks Rock - TR dnf - 19/Nov/11 with Dan

burto - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with steve, hertha

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Toby

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Oct/11

Fell pumped silly from the slopey break at the top.
catt - Lead dog - 01/Oct/11 with Hazel

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Sep/11

BicepAndrews - Lead RP - 25/Sep/11 with Keith Peck

keithpeck - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11

Absolutely superb route! Another party had left quickdraws in and kindly let me use them (thanks again!). Clipped the last bolt but went too far right to the ledge and missed the good holds, head and arms gave out by the time I moved back across (didn't fancy going for it and taking the big pendulum swing). Quick shake and then finished it off. SO close to the onsight...
UnkArl - Lead dog - 24/Sep/11

Linc - Lead rpt - 24/Sep/11 with Carnie Lisa, Dan verge

Linc - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Carnie Lisa

nearly there!
Carnie Lisa - 2nd dog - 03/Sep/11 with Dan Verge

DOne with clips taken out as we didn't want to lose them and I was the last to climb. Clean up to the sort of gully but came off twice, decided it wasn't worth swinging off and having to come back on so decided to leave for another time. Very cool up to there though
Takacs - TR dnf - 03/Sep/11 with Jack Brougham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Jack Brougham, Josh Daymond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/11

Flash at the end of a hard day serious pump but plenty of rests saw me though. Great climbing with a hard upper section but easy bottom.
Joe Black - Lead β - 24/Aug/11 with will black

As completion of warm up pre failing on Pump Hitler.
Ian Bell - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/11 with Jasmina

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/11

La Mont - 13/Aug/11 with Rich Horn

wi11 - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Nat

Kopinski - Lead dog - 03/Aug/11

John Tanner - Lead dog - 02/Aug/11 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Hidden - Lead - Aug/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/11

Felt fairly comfortable this time.
gibsond - Lead RP - 23/Jul/11 with Paul Jackson, James Bisset

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/11

brian watson - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/11 with James, darrel

Two more attempts. I'm sure I've got the sequence now, but was too tired to try again today.
gibsond - Lead dog - 09/Jul/11 with Brian Watson, James Bisset

Previously backed off in 09
TommityP - Lead RP - 09/Jul/11

BicepAndrews - Lead dog - 03/Jul/11 with Laith Selman

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/11

Jonathan Emett - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with darryl, bern

Have got the crux move worked out so should get RP next time. Can't want - great route.
gibsond - Lead dog - 30/Jun/11 with Jonathan Emett, Bernard Exley

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/11

brian watson - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with neil weymouth

Repeat ascent?
Kevster - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

davo74 - Lead - 11/Jun/11

Incredible! Felt strong but arms gave way 4/5 up and really struggled with the roof. Couldn't climb again for the rest of the day.
lewiz - Lead dog - 04/Jun/11 with Vlad Vishnyakov

PeterDawson - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

brilliant route, sums up the best of Portland. saved it for the onsight for yonks.
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Tony B

james.pilbeam - Lead O/S - 29/May/11

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with rich cross

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/May/11

wolverine - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Sarah Marks, Matt Sparkes

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Benjamin Burns

JPGR - Lead O/S - 02/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11

HBredin - TR - 23/Apr/11 with Leo Ferrer

Martin Cleaver - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Jacqui Parker

J.Wells - Lead β - 17/Apr/11 with Jasmine Taplin

JasTaplin - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Jonathan Wells

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 16/Apr/11 with Ivan M

popped off just before the chains, should have tied it earlier in the day.
IanMulvany - Lead dog - 16/Apr/11

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with LukeW

Trouble - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

luke1986 - Lead - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11

not fit enough!!!
Tom Thorne - Lead dnf - 17/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Mar/11

mikelawrence aka jonnienomates - Lead - 08/Mar/11 with James the Navigator, Colin

sweet route, was freezing all the way up it, got a cheeky knee bar in there too!
adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/11 with jack folland

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Nov/10

Pump at the finish beat me - take more rests next time
clipskipper - Lead dog - 16/Oct/10 with Dave (Robins?)

sonic46 - TR dog - 16/Oct/10 with Dave and Lee

Like so many before me I blew the onsight at the penultimate bolt. Got it on redpoint. Cracking route.
Kafoozalem - Lead RP - 10/Oct/10

was exhausted! will have to come back for it
Claire S-J - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Sep/10

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Rosea

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10

MH123 - 2nd dog - 12/Aug/10 with Sam Farnsworth

Sami Mandeel - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/10 with Frederic

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Aug/10

Had to sit on the rope a few times to get through the top couple of clips.
DorsetGareth - Lead dog - 07/Aug/10 with Elaine Hunt

barfani chita - TR dnf - 17/Jul/10 with Saurus

Saurus - TR dnf - 17/Jul/10 with Barfani Chita

jan.prostrednik - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/10 with Runkasova Jana

Barry Kerslake - Lead RP - 18/Jun/10 with Steve H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Matt

Hidden - Jun/10

jan.prostrednik - Lead dog - 31/May/10 with Lukas Marcin

jan.prostrednik - Lead dog - 15/May/10 with Runkasova Jana

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Apr/10

Billg - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/10

luke1986 - Lead - Apr/10

Phil Belcher - Lead - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Mar/10

candicegallab - 2nd dog - 2010

mark_wellin - Lead rpt - 2010

Jane Weir - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Felt piss this time, wonder why I fell off before...?
Mowglee - Lead RP - 08/Oct/09 with Jonathan Emett

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Oct/09

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Ben Harper, Gideon Mordecai

steve_biczyk - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry

michael burrows - TR dnf - 14/Sep/09 with steve davies

Lallylandslider - 2nd dnf - 14/Sep/09 with steve davies

eddie coughlin - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/09 with pete skinsley

chris sm - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/09

wolverine - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Paul Latham

Fell off at the last bolt before the lower, found myself on a really slimy hold, Every time I took one hand off the other started sliding until 5 took a whipper!
Ceridwen - Lead dog - 12/Jul/09 with Heather

Feels tough as a warmup.
Morgan Woods - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/09 with Vinnie

breed - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Dave Giles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/09

Hidden - TR dnf - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

Glyn - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Dave Pattinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/09

SiW - Lead - Jun/09

JimR - 24/May/09

v good
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Jim & Mark

sparkass - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Emerson Clark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09

sam_cox - Lead β - 12/Apr/09

No hard moves. Sustained
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/09 with Mark Glaister

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Trevor

trev_f - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Ed

Dandan82 - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd dog - Mar/09

Mowglee - Lead dog - 28/Feb/09 with Rich

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/09 with Angus

tobydunford - Lead dog - 18/Feb/09 with Angus

Alex More - Lead β - 2009

nealh - Lead - 2009

Happy i acheived this as last time i attempted this route i dnf, very intricate last section leading to a easy lower-off! Pumpy and Sustained 6B+
FrostyWebb - Lead dog - 11/Oct/08 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08

FrostyWebb - Lead dnf - 02/Sep/08 with Hannes

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08

Stamina problems. Good long fall though!
richardr - Lead dnf - Aug/08

Brilliant route which i got to do an extra lap on to get the draws out.....much easier than my first attempt a few yrs ago.....tricky(ish) crux helped by a left sidepull to gain the roof. def not worth 6c.
Morgan Woods - Lead RP - 29/Jun/08 with Vinnie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08

not so straightforward at the grade, good, varied climbing
ksjs - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08 with goosebump

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/08

dmoir - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/08 with nilsamelinckx

dominic lee - Jun/08 with andy elliot

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 05/May/08

Got too pumped 1 bolt from the top blowing the onsight - gotta sort out that stamina!
garburn - Lead dog - 26/Apr/08 with Gideon Mordecai

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Nils

robyn1 - 2008

Hidden - TR dog - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

nawface - Lead - 2008

Great climb!!! Did it before capable of doing so...really good though!
rubben - Lead dog - 21/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Aug/07

lovely
hippo99 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/07

Had some trouble getting to (and past) the penultimate clip. Think I didn't get the holds right. Hmm... Have to go back.
Oliver Sherman - Lead dog - 21/Jul/07 with Andy Sinclair

Siderunner - TR dog - 21/Jul/07 with Oli

Hidden - Lead β - 19/May/07

tumbling wizard - Lead - May/07

JPGR - Lead dog - 15/Apr/07 with Daniel

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07 with jon redshaw

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

hippo99 - 2007

Ha! At last! Great climb.
guyblackwood - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/06 with David

Hidden - 23/Jul/06

just scraped the onsight here was total pumped through crux trying to get an arm bar rest just after crux. good effort.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/06 with pat mcbride

givemetea - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/06 with Ann Chong

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 14/May/06

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/06

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Jon Greengrass - Lead O/S - 2006

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Nathan Kemp - Lead O/S - Oct/05 with Joel Charly

Morgan Woods - Lead dog - Jun/05 with Vinnie

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/04

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/04 with Ben Merryfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/04

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/03

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 2003 with Adam Mulholland

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/02

Hidden - Lead - 07/Sep/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/02

Richard White - 2002

AlexD - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/01 with Mark

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/99

Hidden - Lead RP - Jul/98

Slightly sandy/cruxy right in the middle.
Ben Thorne - Lead RP - 1998 with John Pullin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/97

buzby78 - Lead RP - 18/May/96

AndySL - Lead O/S - 1996 with Mark, Tim

Mike Owen - 28/May/95 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/95

1 rest
Mark Kemball - Lead dog - 12/Mar/95

shark - Lead O/S - 1995 with John Codling

Roget - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/94 with jon

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DorsetGareth, mop449, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, mrmattwright, kateg2009, JackMac, torsok, bradfry, brew_guru, Tom Gale, Jeremy Crampin, Tomber, iceaxejuggler, Paul Boggis, cmb621, madeleine, MH123, A Downing, Dan Lane, Hidden, TerryLines, RFWilkie, Hidden, jtree03, Vince, nickevens, mloskot, silhouette, SuseH, Mikeyped, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, Quiddity, poey50, GrahamHP, Hidden, Hidden, jl, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 147
hard 6c0 of 57
6c1 of 57
easy 6c14 of 57
hard 6b+14 of 57
6b+19 of 57
easy 6b+4 of 57
hard 6b5 of 57
6b0 of 57
easy 6b0 of 57
3 Stars67 of 90
2 Stars21 of 90
1 Star1 of 90
0 Stars1 of 90
Bag of .....0 of 90
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Style of ascent

Lead252 of 295 (85.4%)
Followed11 of 295 (3.7%)
Toproped16 of 295 (5.4%)
Unknown16 of 295 (5.4%)

'Climbed'38 of 295 (12.9%)
clean O/S109 of 295 (36.9%)
clean β11 of 295 (3.7%)
clean rpt33 of 295 (11.2%)
clean RP26 of 295 (8.8%)
dogged56 of 295 (19.0%)
dnf22 of 295 (7.5%)