Rockfax Description
A well-positioned route. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge, as for Shape Shifter. Ascend the groove above to a steep finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 16/Apr/1993

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a.

lewiz 29/May Lead rpt
with Yan Mao
samparsons 22/May Lead β
afterthesend 22/May Lead RP

Second go

Gloria 08/May Lead

Distinct 3 parter: endurance, technical crack and then burl - tried it as the rain was coming in on top rope previously and delighted to have put the draws up yesterday morning.

with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden 30/Apr Lead dnf
Hidden 30/Apr 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Apr Lead β
Bern 16/Apr Lead rpt
with Andy T
Hidden 25/Feb 2nd dog
JackMac 02/Oct/15 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Russ
R2B 02/Oct/15 Lead β
with JackMac
Albachoss ?/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Andrea
RFWilkie 27/Sep/15 Lead dog

Also a clean top rope.

Hidden 27/Sep/15 TR dog
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
etrillaud 11/Jul/15 Lead dog

fell at the crux but managed to do the moved. around 6b/+ until the crux and 6b/+ after.

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead RP
JCAshman ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Billg 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

very short lived technical groove off a ledge. 6C+?

with Nik Goile
spidermonkey09 05/Jun/15 Lead RP

Putting the clips in after dogging it last year- not sure what to call it! Bit unbalanced but it keeps going all the way to the top.

Rich Kirby 28/May/15 Lead O/S
with Helen
afrosam 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Linc 02/May/15 Lead rpt
with louis
Hidden 01/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 01/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead dog
lewiz 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Not soft

Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Trisha Murphy 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
TomJ 21/Mar/15 Lead dog
with Trisha
Hidden 27/Feb/15 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Feb/15 TR dog
Toby Dunn ??/2015 -
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead β
Gem Minihan 29/Aug/14 TR dog
martin one 06/Jul/14 TR dnf

up to the crux

with Markus
spidermonkey09 06/Jun/14 Lead dog

Next time, stuffed the midheight crux sequence.

Hidden 24/May/14 TR dnf
Hidden 24/May/14 TR dnf
Julie Carroll 11/Mar/14 Lead RP
with Robbie Canavan
jsaric 08/Mar/14 -
LouisJones ??/2014 Lead RP

da shit

L.miura 06/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Unfortunately injured, couldn't finish...

with Julie Carroll
Hidden 21/Sep/13 TR rpt
Luis SD 06/Sep/13 Lead RP
Linc 29/Aug/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 26/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Mat Affourtit, Trev Ford, Ed Babs, Mike Gubbins, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
trev_f 26/Aug/13 TR rpt
nataliehaigh 26/Aug/13 2nd dog
philhaigh 24/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Trev Ford, Mike Gubbins
Garrouli 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ioanna
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 03/Aug/13 2nd dog
RdC 22/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Mikey
pezzerrr 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
adamjeffs 06/Jul/13 Lead dog
redjerry 05/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead β
david potts 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nat
Dibdawg 28/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Pete Clark
Jay-Ast 19/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Rosyk
anthony henry 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Laurence Everitt 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 31/May/13 Lead RP
with Ed Babs, Vicki Hau
innes 25/May/13 Lead
with Ruth
Justin T 18/May/13 Lead O/S

At least I think this was onsight, all Portland routes feel somewhat familiar though.

with Nick S
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 18/May/13 Lead β
AlexD 16/May/13 Lead RP
with Ed
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Alex More 25/Apr/13 Lead dog

Injured :( shame as felt easy for grade

with Ed babs
brices 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Lisa, Gav
Joe Innes 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight!! Had to properly fight for this one :)

brices 29/Mar/13 Lead β
Max Lowry ??/2013 Lead O/S
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Brian H 21/Oct/12 Lead dog

Got wrong handed and pumped and ended up having a couple of rests - disappointing as onsighted this when first did it.

with Martin Slater
Viki Claudia Harvey 21/Oct/12 Lead
with Rachel Keys
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead RP
jonleighton 29/Sep/12 Lead RP

Redpoint on 2nd attempt. Didn't feel that hard, just a few technical moves and it's done.

Haydn Jones 09/Sep/12 Lead β
with pep
philhaigh 02/Sep/12 2nd dog
Luxulyan ?/Sep/12 Lead dog


with Tom Murrell
tobydunford 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 19/Aug/12 Lead dog

fell off last move, somehow

dan gibson 28/Jun/12 Lead β
with julie carroll
lewiz 26/May/12 Lead rpt

Straightforward this time

with Vlad Vishnyakov, Owen John
Jeronimo 25/May/12 Lead O/S
tedj234 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead O/S
vickydavies ?/May/12 Lead RP
with Alex Harper
Spacetourist 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
lewiz 10/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Vlad Vishnyakov, Owen John
rustaldo 29/Jan/12 TR dog

TR after leading another route that shared the loweroff. Felt good - definitley go for the lead next time out.

phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
AlexD 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
with Ceri
Ceridwen 06/Nov/11 TR dog
burto 23/Oct/11 Lead dog
with steve, hertha
Toby Dunn 15/Oct/11 Lead
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 15/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Toby
dan gibson 14/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Dandan82 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
Sami Mandeel 25/Sep/11 Lead RP

Could've been my First 7a onsight if I'dve gone right at the crux - doh! Got it 2nd try thought. Crux felt pretty straightforward to me.

with Rob
wi11 06/Aug/11 Lead dog

1rest at crux

with Nat
mlg678 31/Jul/11 Lead RP
Ian Bell ?/Jul/11 Lead dog

Good fun, new one for the project list.

Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Misha 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Had watched Phil try is so knew where the crux was but not really beta as my memory for someone else's moves is pretty poor! The crux is pretty stiff but over fairly quickly. Just a matter of holding it together after that - probably only about 6b+ or 6c after the crux. Fortunately was able to find lots of rests. First ever 7a onsight.

with Phil
philhilo 15/May/11 Lead dog

Thought I might get the redpoint, very close second time but ran out of gas above the crux and took a 10m flyer past the ledge!

with misha
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead dnf
Bern ?/May/11 Lead rpt
Kevster 13/Mar/11 Lead RP

2nd go, "not hidden, but not obvious" hold hiatus

clipskipper 16/Oct/10 Lead dog

Tough in the mid-section, with one very hard move. Either that or there's a hold somewhere . . .

with Dave (Robins?)
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Nice end of the day route. About 6b+ except for the 5m of climbing above the ledge, but all enjoyable. Sandy on the ledge.

with Laura Perry, Duncan Campbell, Mikey G
willbatho 01/Aug/10 Lead dog

fell at side pull below roof

London Luke 11/Jul/10 Lead dnf

failed at the top crux, nice climbing up to there thou.

with Si
ThomasB ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jon Rabey 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve
mark_wellin ??/2010 Lead dog

fell at the crux, few minutes to figure out then did the rest. top felt scary, and i wouldnt like to fall at some points, onto the ledge

Jane Weir ??/2010 -
ian1234567 ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead RP
Vince 31/Aug/09 TR dog
with John Percy
Morgan Woods 05/Jul/09 Lead RP

Should have o/s'd but got in the wrong possie....not too much bridging involved.

with John P
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead RP
derico 24/Jun/09 Lead

Tried a week ago and fell of on the onsight at crux lowered off then nailed first go today, crux sequence about 5m long with easy climbing either side. Fun route

with Oli
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead β
Ed Babs 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead RP
Glyn 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JimR 24/May/09 -
Chubbard 24/May/09 Lead dog
with Jim & Mark
eddieclimb 23/May/09 Lead O/S

Glad to onsight, pumpy little devil...

with Rebecca Edwards
Hidden 01/May/09 2nd β
trev_f 20/Mar/09 Lead RP
EmmanuelF 28/Feb/09 2nd

not clean

Hidden 31/Jan/09 -
schof 14/Jan/09 Lead RP
with andy lamont
hippo99 ??/2009 Lead β
with andy em zoe
nealh ??/2009 Lead
ksjs 23/Jun/08 Lead dog

crux slightly blind and quite easy to go wrong on. bit of a one move wonder but still enjoyable

Martin Krasnansky 14/Apr/08 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2008 -
Docent 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with pudel
Richard Horn 15/Apr/07 Lead RP
feeko ?/Feb/07 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 14/Oct/06 TR β
bigie bob 08/Oct/06 Lead RP
steve taylor 28/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Gav Symonds
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 18/May/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 Lead O/S

first 7a OS

goi.ashmore 30/Apr/04 Lead RP
with Ben Merryfield
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/03 2nd dog
The Jazz Butcher ??/2002 -
John Southworth 01/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, mop449, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, RFWilkie, Rich2002, Pete Dangerous, KDhruev, Hidden, Hidden, Kate Edhouse, Hidden, Seb Lee, Owen W-G, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
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Votes cast 53
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set