Rockfax Description
An excellent climb. Climb the lower wall past a flake to a shallow, left-facing groove. Make technical moves up this and then right to a thin crack and tiny corner. Climb the crack and left-hand bolt-line up the wall to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Jun/1997

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s.

Ed Babs 22/Jul Lead RP

Since I was last on this in the summer the crux hold has broken. The upper hold on the right hand side of the groove that you press off to cross the groove is about half the size that it was so the crux move is now a bit harder. Still an excellent route.

philhaigh 22/Jul 2nd dog

Much harder than Shapeshifter!

Linc 25/May Lead dog
jonleighton 04/May Lead dog

Great, technical moves. Linked most of the hard part on my 2nd go, unfortunately it started raining before I could have a 3rd go :(

Hidden ?/May -
lewiz 01/Jun/14 Lead dog

Disastrous effort at the end of the day. Felt much harder than ZOM.

pezzerrr 18/Jul/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 14/Jun/13 2nd dog

Wow. Utterly and completely spanked by this!

with Ed Babs
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jun/12 Lead RP
dannyboy83 30/May/12 Lead RP
dan gibson 14/Oct/11 Lead RP

Thought this is the easiest of the three 7b+'s here. Info Freako being the hardest.

with julie carroll
jgustafsson 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

Ouch... second session on this, and while moves are solved I did not get particularly close. Feels a grade harder, easily, than ZOM to me.

with Jen
jgustafsson 23/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Jen
Misha 10/Jul/11 Lead dog

Second session. Had to have a fair few goes at the crux as had forgotten the exact moves. Then got stuck at the 8th bolt - managed to put the quickdraw in from a precarious position (outside edge of R foot on the edge by the 7th bolt, L foot balancing on the wall) but didn't dare to clip so ended up grabbing the quickdraw - chicken! Got to the top from there. Later top roped and had to have 4 goes on the crux (key seems to be getting L foot further R on the jug as otherwise haven't got the balance to go for the crimp with the R hand). Smooth above that but fluffed the last hard move going for the pocket above the 8th bolt. Fairly wired now so should go.

with Mike T, Ian W
mark_wellin 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Finally! Too long on this one. Resistant style of climbing. Sequency climbing through the boulder crux and beyond. Awesome line... Just as good as zinc, if not better

Misha 15/May/11 Lead dnf

What an epic! Enjoyable climbing to the big hold below the crux - got that first go, felt about 6c+. The crux completely stumped me for a while, then figured out a cunning left foot placement. Then really struggled with the move to get the hold by the next clip until a press out and another cunning foot placement provided the solution. Tried to repeat the crux section a few times (with varying success), which retrospectively wasn't a great idea as I then started running out of steam for the section above the crux. Couldn't clip the last bolt on the hard section so decided to try clipping the Zinc Oxide bolt instead as it looked a bit easier. Eventually managed it by standing on a lower bolt! Then had to pull on the QD to get the next good hold. Absolutely wasted by the end and didn't even finish the route! Would be interesting to get on this again now that I know the crux moves as the section above the crux isn't that hard, perhaps 7a though it was hard to tell in my knachered state... Excellent route.

with Phil
sam_cox ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

2nd go

schof 12/Apr/10 Lead RP
with steve howe
steve_biczyk 20/Sep/09 Lead dog

Wasn't close to the O/S on this, 2 falls. More sustained than Zinc Oxide.

with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
marcpontin ?/Sep/09 Lead RP
with huw
Martin Krasnansky 15/Jun/08 Lead RP


robyn1 ??/2008 -
La Mont ??/2008 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 08/Oct/06 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stp, Hidden, joe1joe1joe2, Tomar, lewiz, Hidden, Hidden, guyblackwood
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set