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|Co. Wicklow > Luggala >
|Pine Tree Butress|| S 4a|
<< Left Side Climb Direct
Claidheamh Solais >>
|87m, 5 pitches. Start to the right of a boundary wall and below a small slab 4m right of a hanging holly tree.
1. 12m 3C
Climb diagonally left across easy slabs and scoops to the bottom of a wide chimney on right. Climb this and Belay above.
2. 18m 3C
Traverse around a corner on the left and then climb the wide crack on the left up to a holly tree.
3. 9m 3C
Ignore the continuation of the ledge you are on and instead make an awkward step right and up a hanging wall and over a small holly tree to gain the crest of the buttress.
4. 35m 4A
Climb at first on exposed left edge of the buttress and then move to centre with plentiful protection. Final 10m is a scramble over a wide vegetated ledge to find a belay in a recess.
5. 13m 4A
From the recess climb up diagonally left past a large flake and up past an overlap using a crack on the right side and exit onto terrace about 10m below and to the left of the large pine tree.
Grade is probably more like HS 3C,4A,4A,4B,4A
Often combined with Clingon or other routes on Main face
Joss Lynam, P Crean Mar/1949
Ticklists: Ireland 3 Star D-HS.
This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/14
Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/14
barophobe - AltLd - 24/Aug/13
Jack Doyle - AltLd - 17/May/10 with Theo
wheelo - AltLd - 22/Apr/10 with herbert
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10
Great climb, definately HS. Rope drag an issue if you run the first two pitches together (like I did !)
idmadden - AltLd β - Sep/09
Awkward Route Finding on Pitch-5
cearbhalld - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Tina Michels
auld al - AltLd O/S - Apr/04
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1991
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, karlc, Conor1