|180m, 7 pitches. |
Originally climbed by Schober and Kleisl in 1938, the route has been more commonly named after Rossi, who completed the first repeat five years later. This route avoids the harder original start, bringing the grade down a notch. Polished in places.
Start just right of the large corner (followed by Tissi pitch 2 ).
1) V, 45m. Ascend the grey rocks at the base then move left on a ledge below the large corner. Ignore the corner (Tissi) and instead climb a yellow crack to the left of this to reach a ledge, then move right on a ledge across the top of the corner to a stance.
2) VI-, 25m. Follow the ledge right (the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) Direct Start enters here) then climb a steep slab direct, moving right at the top.
3) IV+, 30m. Traverse right from the stance then climb a crack trending right to reach a grassy ledge.
4) V, 30m. Layback the flake above then follow a short corner left to a yellow niche. Keep right of this and move back right to a stance on a platform.
5) VI-, 30m. Climb the steep wall above then move left to a corner. Climb this then exit left just before the top and traverse more easily to a stance on a long ledge.
6) IV+, 30m. Climb a crack to a roof. Keep right of this then follow a crack back left above it to a ledge. Traverse this left to a crack, then climb direct to a stance just below the summit. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
A good technical route. Harder but not as strenuous as the Tissi Route. Excellent climbing on compact rock.
V+ and A0, or VI-
Schober, Kleisl 1938