Although less popular than many of the other routes in the Tre Cime group, the Del Vecchio route is a classic which deserves recognition. It offers exposed crack and face climbing on mainly solid rock and although there is limited fixed gear there is plenty of opportunity for leader-placed protection. Like its neighbouring climbs, the original route continued to the summit but because the rock quality deteriorates it is recommended to exit along the large ledge just above half height.
Start on the far right of the south face next to the gully between Punta Frida and Cima Piccolissima. Follow the scree ledge left then ascend black rock back right to the start of the route, below a grey-yellow corner. The large and distinctive black corner of pitch 4 provides a good point of reference.
1) IV+, 30m. Climb the corner from right to left to reach a yellow roof.
2) V+, 30m. Climb the overhang above, move right then continue right to a vegetated ledge.
3) V, 40m. Climb a series of vague corners then continue up a more pronounced corner to the right of the arete to a belay on the left.
4) V+, 40m. Climb a short wall for a few metres to reach a large ledge. Step left and climb the distinct dark corner that leads between two yellow overhangs. Belay just below the top of the corner at the base of a crack.
5) IV, 40m. Continue up the crack and step right to reach a small pillar just left of the arete. Climb a short corner and move right to a belay near the arete.
6) V, 35m. Step right and climb a series of cracks near the arete with excellent exposed climbing.
7) IV, 40m. Continue up the arete to reach a shoulder. From here descend left and join on to the descent route down the halfway ledge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Exposed and quite sustained.