UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

24m. A somewhat contrived line, which goes close to The Druid in places, but which has independent sections and some good climbing. Start 3m right of the corner of The Golden Fleece at a thin crack in a slim brown groove. Climb the groove to a bulge and move up the arete to a second bulge. Turn this on the left, move back right to the arete, and continue more easily to a ledge and tree on the right. Step right and climb the short steep wall just right of the arete. Move right again and climb the centre of the slim wall to the top.

Brian Mullan/M.S.Davies 29/May/2009.

Feedback

User Date Notes
ClimbingNut 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Easy to stay left or right to easier ground. Takes discipline to do correctly I think.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy to stay left or right to easier ground. Takes discipline to do correctly I think.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 15
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wurlitzer

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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