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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
Some good, open face climbing in its upper half. Take care low down as the bolts are spaced and the rock friable. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 19/Apr/1992.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
matt perks 23 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was potentially a brilliant route. The first half is sustained and fairly steep, the next section involves some excellent, intricate slabby stuff, and then there's a juggy finish. It is still a bit crumbly in the bottom half but just needs a bit of care and should clean up if it gets enought traffic. The bolts are excitingly spaced - not one to push your grade on - but I thought scary rather than dangerous.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought this was potentially a brilliant route. The first half is sustained and fairly steep, the next section involves some excellent, intricate slabby stuff, and then there's a juggy finish. It is still a bit crumbly in the bottom half but just needs a bit of care and should clean up if it gets enought traffic. The bolts are excitingly spaced - not one to push your grade on - but I thought scary rather than dangerous.
Jus 11 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Forgot to say I nearly got crushed by rock the size of a small telly that my mate pulled off - twice!! Be very careful.
βeta?
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βeta: Forgot to say I nearly got crushed by rock the size of a small telly that my mate pulled off - twice!! Be very careful.
Jus 11 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The quintessential pile of horrible, run-out, sandy tottering choss. Frightening.
βeta?
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βeta: The quintessential pile of horrible, run-out, sandy tottering choss. Frightening.

Logged Ascents

11 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wallsend South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Jewel of the Isle

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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