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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
A brilliant, testing line that features some hard moves low down. Start just to the left of a corner in the low overhang. Execute a technical, but short-lived sequence to better holds on the wall above, then follow this to the mid-height break. The clean-cut corner and headwall above are the icing on the cake. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 31/Dec/1989.
Ticklists
A Guide for Progress in Dorset , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , Portland scheming
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Rockmonkey1977 | 28 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Probably worth clipsticking the 2nd bolt if you can... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Probably worth clipsticking the 2nd bolt if you can... |
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| Richard Horn | 19 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Cool upper groove. Route would be 6a/6a+ if it were not for the start which is hard for 6b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Cool upper groove. Route would be 6a/6a+ if it were not for the start which is hard for 6b. |
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| Ben Stokes | 19 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: A superb long route with plenty of interest throughout. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A superb long route with plenty of interest throughout. |
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| John Alcock | 19 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: My partner, who's vertically challenged, managed the big reach at the start by getting a knee jam under the roof. The top has a delightful sting in the tail. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: My partner, who's vertically challenged, managed the big reach at the start by getting a knee jam under the roof. The top has a delightful sting in the tail. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend South
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No Place for Mambas
Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)