|700m, 24 pitches. |
Probably the most renowned classic on the whole mountain. With 25 pitches forging a line up the pale slabs that fall direct from the summit to half-height before escaping out to the right to climb steeper rock and eventually the upper section of the East Ridge. There is one aid move and the 6a+ pitch is easily aided too if necessary. Despite being fully bolted, this is not a route to be underestimated, 8 hours of climbing is a decent time for an efficient team to aim for. Bear in mind that the line of the lower part of the route is so clean because all the run-off from the upper face gets funnelled down here - it is no place to be if rain is forecast. Also the route is full in the sun all day so carry sufficient water.
Start on the left side of the pale slabs where the approach path flattens out - name on the rock. The start is shared with another line so be sure to start by trending rightwards.
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+, 4) 5, 5) 5, 6) 5+/A0, 7) 5+, 8) 5+, 9) 5,
10) 3+, 11) 5, 12) 5, 13) 5, 14) 5+, 15) 6a+, 16) 5, 17) 5+,
18) 5+, 19) 3+, 20) 5+, 21) 5+, 22) 4+, 23) 5, 24) 3+, 25) 4. 150m of easy, but highly exposed, scrambling lead to the top - hard enough to stay roped up for but maybe moving together. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the slabs above the big gully in the south east face. Mostly pitches of F5 but a crux pitch of 6a+ is required to reach the eastern arete which leads to the summit.
Jean-Denis Achard and Gerard Pouliquen with help from Jean-Paul Faure and Jean-Louis Rocher 1999
Photo: Climber on summit ridge of Dent D'Orlu © ablackett
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This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lead the evens up to pitch 13 but ran out of time !
montymoo - AltLd dnf - 06/Sep/14 with Gareth
Got to pitch 14, but started too late. Wouldn't have got to the top until 11pm so headed down. Mostly good clean climbing. Great day out
Gareth - AltLd dnf - 06/Sep/14 with Mark
Led the odd pitches (first & crux). All of my leads clean but slipped off a smear on P2 due to the first three or four pitches streaming with water.
Reached the summit in about 11 hours and had an epic getting down.
Epic route, glad to have done it after first coming up with the idea three years ago!
lewiz - AltLd dog - 24/Aug/14 with Tom Stone
9 hours 40 mins, 14 hours car to car. Aid the 6a pitch
riddle - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Mike Stephenson
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/12
paul horabin - AltLd - 2012
A great day out. The approach was checked by doing Alabets, a 10 pitch and harder 6a+ 2 days before. Took 7hrs to the summit and 2hrs 15mins down - we did find the path! Lots of easier ground but you do need to be quick.
Andy Nisbet - AltLd - 29/Sep/11 with Jonathan Preston
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/11
A seriously big day out! Quite an adventure. Long slabby pitches low down. Found the crux pitch pretty tough to deal with after covering so much ground already in the hot sun. It was very well protected though. For me the best bit was probably the spectacular exposed rib pitch on the arete as a fitting finale. Aid pitch is a very short bolt-pull across a featureless slab to reach the belay.
8h30 to P25 if I remember rightly. We pitched the rest of the ridge for safety although we had soloed it a few days previously. We were keeping up 20 minute pitches but lost a bit of momentum after the relief of getting through the crux! The descent through the forest was pretty hellish - very steep through undergrowth with no path for the first part, and a constant worry of tumbling over a crag. Definitely worth getting met at the Poele de Frire if you can possibly arrange it.
jonny taylor - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Andy B
Awesome route - by far the longest I've ever done. Made it to the top in just over 8.5 hrs. Found the route well bolted throughout except for the final easy section to the top. The descent was a bit annoying, only just finding the path in the woods as it got dark.
bigbobbyking - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/09 with Aeron Buchanan
15 hrs to summit and back to van. How can a 1000m route be 6a+? TD
ian caton - Lead - 2005 with Abi
ChrisBrooke, Andy Edgar, Laramadness, Timothy Miller, montymoo, erik.., Tomish, Ronan O Keeffe, wurzelinzummerset, LukeyG, bsparky, escostar, Richard Alderton