Rockfax Description
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to finish up a thin crack in the compact face above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25.6.95 25/Jun/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below.

littleluke 14/May Lead rpt
David Staples 07/May TR dog
Nick Russell 16/Apr Lead O/S

Probably the nicest of the headwall cracks, but with a stiff crux low down.

ollie_e 14/Mar Lead O/S


with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 14/Mar Lead β
with ollie_e
Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

lovely climb.

with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 05/Sep/15 TR dog

Really enjoyed this climb. Shouldn't have fallen really...ran outta strength.

elliptic 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
Sophie Nunn 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ed B
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 25/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Greased off the start, so hot that day but an excellent line!

FlavioL1989 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Rob Edwards
tash 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with ali k
dswansonlow 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
chakrit 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
Kevster 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Seagulls at the top attacking

tonevert 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 10/May/15 TR dog
hankyc 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Really nice long pitch which eases and gets better and better!

R2B 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Climb
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Gem Minihan 18/Apr/15 TR dog

First climb post-op

with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Nat Haigh
Dibdawg 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Dean177 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
dbrooks 18/Jan/15 Lead dog

Came off clipping 3rd bolt then finished clean. Pumped at the end of the day

with Dr Dave
Bristoldave 04/Jan/15 Lead β
with Luke
kingborris ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 13/Sep/14 Lead dog

Nice climbing but the bottom was very, very greasy.

Sam4242 10/Sep/14 Lead dog
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead dog

1 fall

Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 09/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Rosea Day 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Vince 03/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BenL 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
robbo99 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Despite multiple attempts, couldnt figure the low crux for a clean ascent. Great route and worth returning for

Graham Westbrook 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 15/May/14 Lead RP
with Alex Dennis, Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Ed Babs, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 TR dog
funsized 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead β
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead β
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S

Damp, felt 6c

adamjeffs 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Dan_Carroll 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Iain
Ian Bell 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Stopped at the crux

Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Luke Dawson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
littleluke 05/May/13 -
Daniel 20/Aug/12 Lead
with Jasmina Saric
BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead RP

Really hard crux move

CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead dog

fingers slipped off just before making the move that finishes the crux, oh well

with Becca
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead β
John Mcshea 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
billb ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead dog
AlexD 28/May/12 Lead RP
with Ed
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead dog
nataliehaigh 26/May/12 2nd dog
yarrow 21/May/12 TR O/S
with Mark C, Laurence Everitt
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Hard (for the grade) starting moves followed by juggy climbing on superb rock. Stunning.

with Mark Chev
Laurence Everitt 20/May/12 Lead RP
with Mark Chevasut, Harry Yarrow, Harry Thorpe
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
with Grant, maffer the faffer
Tommyads ??/2012 -
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, Sarah Pentelow
ThomasB ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead dog
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead RP
Alex More 25/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Ed babs
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead RP
brian watson 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
with neil weymouth
Misha 14/May/11 Lead dog

Foot slipped off on the crux and I fell off, how embarrassing! The crux felt pretty hard for the grade.

with Phil
philhilo 14/May/11 Lead dog

Fell off same place as misha, seemed very strenous on the crux, maybe not warmed up enough?

with misha
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
slav ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with James P
natalietanzer 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
eroica64 02/Aug/09 TR dog

Hard crux sequence on finger sidepulls and then quite sustained afterwards.

with Audrey
feilx 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bob & Andy S
bigie bob 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 TR O/S
briar4012 10/May/09 TR dnf
with Jane Weir
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nils
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
La Mont ??/2009 -
Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Ed Babs 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Richard Horn 13/Aug/06 Lead RP
shoulders 14/Jul/06 Lead
with mart
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Sep/02 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
The Jazz Butcher ??/2001 -
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden 20/May/00 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matti Puckridge, Ed Houghton, James.Burnett, chris_woodsy, Hidden, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, sarah hawker, Hidden, Jaime Mitchell, Hidden, RFWilkie, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, SuseH, silhouette, poey50, tobydunford, Hidden
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set