28m.

Rockfax Description
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to finish up a thin crack in the compact face above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25.6.95 25/Jun/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below.


ClimberDateStyle
littleluke 14/May Lead rpt
David Staples 07/May TR dog
Nick Russell 16/Apr Lead O/S

Probably the nicest of the headwall cracks, but with a stiff crux low down.

ollie_e 14/Mar Lead O/S

Superb.

with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 14/Mar Lead β
with ollie_e
Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

lovely climb.

with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 05/Sep/15 TR dog

Really enjoyed this climb. Shouldn't have fallen really...ran outta strength.

elliptic 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
Sophie Nunn 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ed B
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 25/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Greased off the start, so hot that day but an excellent line!

FlavioL1989 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Rob Edwards
tash 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with ali k
dswansonlow 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
chakrit 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
Kevster 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Seagulls at the top attacking

tonevert 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 10/May/15 TR dog
hankyc 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Really nice long pitch which eases and gets better and better!

R2B 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Climb
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Gem Minihan 18/Apr/15 TR dog

First climb post-op

with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Nat Haigh
Dibdawg 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Dean177 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
dbrooks 18/Jan/15 Lead dog

Came off clipping 3rd bolt then finished clean. Pumped at the end of the day

with Dr Dave
Bristoldave 04/Jan/15 Lead β
with Luke
kingborris ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 13/Sep/14 Lead dog

Nice climbing but the bottom was very, very greasy.

Sam4242 10/Sep/14 Lead dog
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead dog

1 fall

Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 09/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Rosea Day 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Vince 03/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BenL 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
robbo99 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Despite multiple attempts, couldnt figure the low crux for a clean ascent. Great route and worth returning for

Graham Westbrook 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 15/May/14 Lead RP
with Alex Dennis, Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Ed Babs, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 TR dog
funsized 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead β
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead β
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S

Damp, felt 6c

adamjeffs 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Dan_Carroll 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Iain
Ian Bell 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Stopped at the crux

Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Luke Dawson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
littleluke 05/May/13 -
Daniel 20/Aug/12 Lead
with Jasmina Saric
BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead RP

Really hard crux move

CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead dog

fingers slipped off just before making the move that finishes the crux, oh well

with Becca
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead β
John Mcshea 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
billb ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead dog
AlexD 28/May/12 Lead RP
with Ed
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead dog
nataliehaigh 26/May/12 2nd dog
yarrow 21/May/12 TR O/S
with Mark C, Laurence Everitt
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Hard (for the grade) starting moves followed by juggy climbing on superb rock. Stunning.

with Mark Chev
Laurence Everitt 20/May/12 Lead RP
with Mark Chevasut, Harry Yarrow, Harry Thorpe
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
with Grant, maffer the faffer
Tommyads ??/2012 -
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, Sarah Pentelow
ThomasB ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead dog
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead RP
Alex More 25/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Ed babs
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead RP
brian watson 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
with neil weymouth
Misha 14/May/11 Lead dog

Foot slipped off on the crux and I fell off, how embarrassing! The crux felt pretty hard for the grade.

with Phil
philhilo 14/May/11 Lead dog

Fell off same place as misha, seemed very strenous on the crux, maybe not warmed up enough?

with misha
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
slav ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with James P
natalietanzer 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
eroica64 02/Aug/09 TR dog

Hard crux sequence on finger sidepulls and then quite sustained afterwards.

with Audrey
feilx 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bob & Andy S
bigie bob 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 TR O/S
briar4012 10/May/09 TR dnf
with Jane Weir
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nils
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
La Mont ??/2009 -
Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Ed Babs 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Richard Horn 13/Aug/06 Lead RP
shoulders 14/Jul/06 Lead
with mart
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Sep/02 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
The Jazz Butcher ??/2001 -
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden 20/May/00 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matti Puckridge, Ed Houghton, James.Burnett, chris_woodsy, Hidden, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, sarah hawker, Hidden, Jaime Mitchell, Hidden, RFWilkie, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, SuseH, silhouette, poey50, tobydunford, Hidden
Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set