Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to finish up a thin crack in the compact face above. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 25/Jun/1995.
West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Sendathon , Portland scheming
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Wise | 18 May, 2023 |
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βeta: The flake with the first bolt in it seems very hollow. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The flake with the first bolt in it seems very hollow. |
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RockSteady | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Hard to clip at the crux section. | ||
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βeta: Hard to clip at the crux section. |
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Luke.Nisbet | 19 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: I hated this route is as opposite to a boulder as you can get very sport climbing esc crux then some ploddy climbing others in the group loved it | ||
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βeta: I hated this route is as opposite to a boulder as you can get very sport climbing esc crux then some ploddy climbing others in the group loved it |
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Tituscrags | 19 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: The run out at the top was \'engaging\' let\'s say | ||
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βeta: The run out at the top was 'engaging' let's say |
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earthkeptwarm | 17 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Really great line. Messed up a clip and then fought the box pump up the rest. Quality route with an intense start. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really great line. Messed up a clip and then fought the box pump up the rest. Quality route with an intense start. |
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etrillaud | 27 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: tough crux move on the lower part | ||
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βeta: tough crux move on the lower part |
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J1_TOV | 8 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Stiff warm up with shaky low down moves with a long reach left being the last hard move. Bliss after clip 3. | ||
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βeta: Stiff warm up with shaky low down moves with a long reach left being the last hard move. Bliss after clip 3. |
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a_radiohead_fan | 22 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: top route. strenny low down with a little food for thought higher up. excellent. | βeta? | |
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βeta: top route. strenny low down with a little food for thought higher up. excellent. |
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Jus | 11 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: A 3 star top banana. Easy for the grade & just as good as Trad Free World. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A 3 star top banana. Easy for the grade & just as good as Trad Free World. |
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Ben Stokes | 19 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Nice and sustained - a magnificent climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice and sustained - a magnificent climb. |
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John Alcock | 19 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Superb, but be prepared to really go for it on the big lunge left. | ||
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βeta: Superb, but be prepared to really go for it on the big lunge left. |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Blacknor Central)