Rockfax Description
The right-hand line of the lower wall is another terrific face-climb. Start below ledges and a left-leaning corner under an overhang. Climb the gently overhanging wall on positive holds and finish up a flake-crack in the headwall. Stunning. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 30.4.89 30/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Robmwatt 26/Sep Lead
Hidden 21/Sep Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep Lead O/S
Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 05/Sep TR O/S

Fine. Nice climb.

Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
elliptic 15/Aug Lead O/S
Tash K.
chris_woodsy 15/Aug Lead O/S
tash 15/Aug Lead rpt

Good route - nice warm up

Chris T
philhaigh 06/Aug Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn, Ed Babs, Shamina Kapadia
Luke Owens 25/Jul Lead O/S

Best of it's grade in the UK? Amazing route!

samparsons 25/Jul Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 18/Jul Lead O/S

Super 30m route. Changing clothes and putting a bright green helmet seemed to have calmed the seagull down.

Rob Edwards
David Staples 07/Jul Lead rpt
Mark Chevassut 17/Jun Lead O/S

watch out for seagulls!

Hidden 05/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun TR O/S
David Staples 04/Jun Lead O/S

Tough warm up. Didn't see the seagul nest on the ledge and knocked out an egg! Seagul was pissed off to say the least. Sorry mate. Cracking route otherwise.

tash 16/May Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May Lead dog
Steph Roberts 19/Apr TR O/S
Rob Gates, Sam
R2B 19/Apr Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
JackMac 18/Apr Lead O/S

Great route.

Clive, Darren, Russ
ReubenS1990 ?/Apr Lead dog
Bristoldave 18/Jan Lead O/S
dbrooks 18/Jan Lead O/S

Warm up, one of the best 6a+ on Portland?

kingborris ??/2015 -
roberts1234567890 04/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 13/Sep/14 Lead β

A climb of several different parts, very nice.

nacnud 24/Aug/14 Lead
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Vince 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Eric Pieuchot
Renna Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice crux-less yet sustained climbing, good warm up route which gets a bit pumpy towards the top

Rosea Day 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Vince 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Eric Pieuchot
Gem Minihan 22/Jul/14 Lead dog
MichaelConstantinou 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nesting seagulls!

leonr23 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Currently has a nesting seagull just below the anchor which can be avoided by going right, but it will still get angry. Started divebombing another climber. Nice climb though.

brices 25/May/14 Lead O/S


Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
funsized 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead β
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt
dprctr 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jas128 20/Sep/13 TR β
Graham Westbrook 16/Sep/13 Lead β
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead rpt
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Dan_Carroll 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philmcf ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
philmcf ?/Aug/13 TR rpt
DJ Nelson 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S

A great route, really varied and enjoyable climbing - featuring the coolest hold in the world - the inprint of an ammonite (side pull/undercut just after half way up on the left). Some holds low down were very greasy though.

Micaela Langellotti
Ian Bell 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Rosyk 20/Jun/13 2nd O/S
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead dog
Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Alex_RhodesUK 06/Jun/13 TR dog
Stanners 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S

another amazing portland classic in glorious sun -Jumped in sea after to cool off!

Alex Rhodes
Marti999 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
nataliehaigh 01/Jun/13 2nd dog
Mike Gubbins, Phil Haigh
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 26/May/13 2nd dog
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Pete Dangerous 18/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead rpt
littleluke 05/May/13 -
dan gibson 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
jacquie robinson
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead β
Helen Gibson 30/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead
brew_guru 20/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
brew_guru 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

So good I did it twice!

Rupey 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
rustyfishhook 06/Sep/12 TR O/S

I discovered this route in 2003ish, I left climbing due to an ongoing illness. Now many years later I'm back and payed this little beauty a visit! BEAUTIFUL! Good rock and great shapes!

Trippinjester 06/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Not good conditions. Very greasy on the lower section, but still a great route.

ian caton 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S

best 6a+ in the country?

Daniel 20/Aug/12 Lead
Jasmina Saric
lucachitara 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

beautiful climbing, incredible crack section at the top.

BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very very good

CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jake Young 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

The only thing i got up clean all day, trashed from previous days climbing.

Dibdawg 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Pete Clark
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jaime Mitchell 30/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 22/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 22/Jun/12 2nd dog
Marti999 01/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Paul Hayes
Julie Carroll 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Helen Gibson
Alex Norman 31/May/12 Lead β
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead rpt
nataliehaigh 26/May/12 2nd O/S
yarrow 21/May/12 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S
will black ?/May/12 Lead O/S
GarethHall 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matt_read 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Nice route......nice new shoes!

Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tommyads ??/2012 -

Best 6a+ I can think of.

MarkRyder 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Ivan M
julesmckim 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

All got up it in the dying light!

dave lewis, Mickie Streule
PeterDawson 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 Lead
catt 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Frickin awesome.

Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
anna barnes
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 29/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
clipskipper 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good clean fun, but a little damp on the day

Dave A
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 TR O/S
cooperman 12/Aug/11 Lead RP
Greg Foster
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Lloyders ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Misha 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice route but felt hard for the grade.

philhilo 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Hard at the grade.

dale1968 02/May/11 2nd dog

rain thunder and lightening made for exciting climbing, great route3* (lower bolt now in place)

Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Mar/11 Lead rpt
CC meet
Abi Chard 14/Mar/11 Lead dog
AlexD 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Every hold is a jug!

Ed Babs 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Mike Hawkins
slav ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead
natalietanzer 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
toasted 31/May/10 Lead O/S
vertigo 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Really good route for the grade. Noisy bird on the ledge at the top was the only distraction.

mark_wellin 15/May/10 Lead O/S
philhaigh 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
KDhruev 11/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Alex More 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Southern Mark Smith 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Dandan82 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
harry massey
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead RP
steve taylor 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Trev Ford
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Solo O/S
mynameisjen 16/Aug/09 Lead dog
w.pettet-smith 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

the first bolt is stupidly high- did a lower one fall off? lots of evidencde of rock fall in the vacinity.

eroica64 02/Aug/09 TR O/S

Brilliant moves and fairly sustained with terrific top wall/slab.

Audrey Morrison
jacobjlloyd 04/Jul/09 Lead β
steve taylor 10/May/09 -
Steve Williams
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead β
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2009 -
Hidden 10/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 17/Sep/08 Lead dog

slipped at the start.

Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
feilx 14/Sep/08 Lead rpt
trev_f 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
Matt Booth
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
simonf 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/07 -
Owen W-G 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Angry gull with nest and chicks on ledge near top. Got dive bombed with puke and guano. Just about managed to cling on to get to the top.

Scott N ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
feilx 26/May/07 Lead O/S
theloringharvey ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Jon Partridge
steve taylor 28/Apr/07 Lead
ouzo john
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Oliver Sherman 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Paul Raine, John Eales
bigie bob 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Lee Bartrop
chris sm 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Pippa Froggatt
finchelata 06/Aug/06 TR O/S
davewing 26/Apr/06 TR
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
michael burrows 04/Oct/05 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Southern Mark Smith ??/2004 -
Hidden 09/Sep/03 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Sep/02 Lead
tim b, Svenn G
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Andy Howe
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Nigel Baker
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Southern Mark Smith ??/2001 -
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden 27/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/00 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/99 Lead
Kevster 21/Jun/98 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set