Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
The right-hand line of the lower wall is another terrific face-climb. Start below ledges and a left-leaning corner under an overhang. Climb the gently overhanging wall on positive holds and finish up a flake-crack in the headwall. Stunning. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 30/Apr/1989.
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Olympian (6's) , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , Portland Olympian - Need for Speed! , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Dorset 2-3* 6a's
User | Date | Notes | ||
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alasdaircavaye | 18 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Amazing climb. Very varied | βeta? | |
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βeta: Amazing climb. Very varied |
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Pino | 20 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: dangerous start (as most) | βeta? | |
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βeta: dangerous start (as most) |
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nealh | 2 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: alternatively you need some cojones! | βeta? | |
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βeta: alternatively you need some cojones! |
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Sash.C | 14 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Stretchy on the legs? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stretchy on the legs? |
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nugski | 13 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: good climb. great hand holds quite stretchy on the legs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: good climb. great hand holds quite stretchy on the legs. |
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Ben Stokes | 19 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: John, the rock that held the first bolt parted company with the rest of the crag a couple of years ago... | ||
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βeta: John, the rock that held the first bolt parted company with the rest of the crag a couple of years ago... |
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John Alcock | 19 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Classic route, but what a stupid, dangerous first bolt placement. As it's the easiest route in the area, people often go on it first when it's still greasy. Why has it got a potential death fall while going for the first clip? | ||
Show beta
βeta: Classic route, but what a stupid, dangerous first bolt placement. As it's the easiest route in the area, people often go on it first when it's still greasy. Why has it got a potential death fall while going for the first clip? |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)