|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Intimidating on the walk in, but the route doesn't have any exposure until the very end - and then it has loads. The traverse approach looks sketchy but presents no problems. You can start P1 from the tat on the other side of the gully to the approach ledge, where you make a rising traverse along the wall (as described in Cicerone book), as we did. Or you can descend the gully for 30 foot until below the continuation of the chimney, which probably makes for a more continuous route and allows you to link to P2. P2 is rather awkward getting started, but chockstones make it safe. P3 is nice as you climb the chimney, ground starting to drop. I belayed at the ledge above as the moves off the spike above looked impossible. Once my second was up, I had a go and found it much easier than it looked, but with a massive drop on the left, and gave us a proper top out into the sun.
Davy Sadler, Andrew Keith
|Simon Caldwell||12/Sep/09||AltLd O/S||
In 4 pitches. I led the 2nd (chimney) pitch, a nice back-and-foot exercise. C got as far as the final slippery unprotected III+ mantelshelf before retreating to the ledge. I then did the same (ie retreat to the ledge) before opting for the much less worrying grade V alternative to the left :-)