Approach: Start at the car park next to cafe La Ciajota, at the W end of the Vallunga valley, just E of Selva in Val Gardena [1700m alt.]. From the car park, follow a gravelly track into the Vallunga pastures, bearing L at the first fork up through the pine woods. After about 20 minutes, turn L of the track beside a small cairn, and follow the path up through the trees to the foot of the cliffs. On your right is the cableway used by the Rifugio Stevia.

Route: Start at the foot of the rocky rib on the L. Scramble up a few metres to the start of the cable, then follow the steep rib on good rock with polished holds, followed by a short steep section on rungs, then a ladder. A comfortable grassy ledge leads L to the next section, where after a few very exposed moves the angle eases and a wooded slope is reached [1 h]. Walk easily past a dead pine to the next steep rocks, and after about 10 mins follow the cable L then back R in a steep and exposed position. After a short ladder bridge, climb a short wall and move up and L towards a steep corner. Climb the corner then a ladder to a ledge with a logbook. Finish to the L and exit onto grassy meadows [2 1/2h]. An obvious path leads to the Rifugio Stevia [2312m].

Descent:Follow path 17 [signposted to Selva] the after 20 mins branch L along path 17A and follow this steeply down zigzags through the forest. At a crossroads go L [this is path 26 but signs are not obvious] and contour round below steep cliffs until the car park can be glimpsed to the R. Turn R at a rock painted "Bar" and return to the car park.

Map: Tabacco 07 (1:25000) Alta Badia-Arabba-Marmolada

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
embob 18/Jun Solo dnf

Did not start more like! Cable and pins have been removed.

Alex, Pa
LauraChilterns 23/Sep/14 -

Outstanding VF. Great exposure and fun vertical climbing in the top section.

purplemushroom 23/Sep/14 -
centurion05 10/Sep/14 -
Giles Eperon 07/Sep/14 -
Charlie Wilson, Alex Eperon, felicity eperon
Marti999 04/Sep/14 -
shelbymcb ?/Sep/14 -
andy, eve29, mike
kirky_p 31/Aug/14 -
Hidden 31/Jul/14 -
Hidden 11/Jul/14 -
wjcdean 09/Jul/14 -

Final sections were really good fun. Exposed traverses and a long(ish) steep corner to finish. Excellent protection

BStar 09/Jul/14 -

Not too tricky although there were some quite pumpy pull ups on the cable.

Trevers 09/Jul/14 -

Hauled on cables all the way

IamAJMiller 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A perfect VF, some great sections and the exposure was brilliant. One of the best I've been on!

vikx85 26/Jul/13 -
jhobbs 02/Jul/13 -
Harvdog 02/Jul/13 -
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Ade7 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/13 AltLd
Gary A S 02/Jun/13 -
Hidden 27/Dec/12 Solo
Pompey 28/Sep/12 -
JonnoP 28/Sep/12 -
Hidden 06/Sep/12 -
Monkey_Alan 06/Sep/12 -
Collett's Mountain Holidays
mike_hough_uk 06/Sep/12 -

Part of a massive snake of people inching up the route!

chri55ie 06/Sep/12 -
zoeimogen 10/Aug/12 -
JamesRich 26/Jul/12 -
Karen Rich, Howard Rich, Paul Rich
Hidden 19/Jul/12 -
Mike-W-99 13/Jul/12 -

After heavy rain so no style points for ascent!

Fiona Reid 13/Jul/12 -

A bit slippery thanks to the morning downpour but well worth it for the delicious strudel at the Stevia Hutte.

Fiskavaig 07/Jul/12 Solo

Steep! our first of the week! a really good VF

Steve Bridg, Paul R
noteviljoe 22/Jun/12 -
Neil Metcalfe101 05/Jun/12 -
Andy Beal, Lesley Beal, Loraine Rowan, Andy Odger
Ellie79 21/Aug/11 -
Andy Odger, Miles Doughty, Katie H
Hidden 06/Aug/11 -
sarahlizzy 31/Jul/11 -

Fun route. Very exposed but the climbing is on good holds and the protection is modern and well done. Amazing views to be had. Unlike some VFs, this has no "muppet filter" at the start - it doesn't earn its grade until towards the end, with an excellent steep bridging pitch. Very busy when we did it.

Mike-W-99 13/Jul/11 -

Good well protected route. Finishes near an excellent hut with home baking and fresh milk.

Fiona Reid 13/Jul/11 -

Very nice, nothing too hard. The Stevia Hut does very nice cake!

Hidden 13/Jul/11 -
Geoffers 09/Jul/11 -
Headjamm 09/Jul/11 -
Griff87 ?/Jul/11 -
syv_k ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Solo
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/11 -
Griff87 ?/Jun/11 -
rch3l ?/Mar/11 Solo
Hidden 09/Sep/10 -
Dave Foster ?/Sep/10 -
Laura, Elena, Ross, Sandra
jubolo 14/Jul/10 -
batts, craig
Hidden 02/Jul/10 -
Hidden 22/Jun/10 -
Hidden 13/Jun/10 -
AxelF ?/Jun/10 -
Jeff Ashton
Hidden 01/Aug/09 -
Hidden 01/Aug/09 -
beardy mike ??/2007 -
High VF4C
Mid VF4C
Low VF4C
High VF4A
Mid VF4A
Low VF4A
High VF4B
Mid VF4B
Low VF4B
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set