Sandro Pertini*** VF5B
[VF Sandro Pertini, 4 kb]

Rockfax Description
This via ferrata is named after a former Italian president, Sandro Pertini, who used to holiday in the area. It is a relatively new via ferrata, built in 2004, which was extremely controversial as it was put up without the correct planning permission in an area that fringes the Puez-Odle nature reserve. It was closed and re-opened several times while various European court proceedings took place. Today the via ferrata is open to all and has become one of the most popular in the Dolomites. Vallunga, the valley in which it is situated, provides some of the best scenery in the Dolomites, whilst the wire is of excellent quality and the climbing enjoyable. The only downside is, because of the relatively low altitude at which the via ferrata is situated, it can get quite muddy after a period of heavy rain.
Approach - Sandro Pertini is located in the Vallunga, an impressive steep-sided valley, just out of Selva di Val Gardena. Selva can be approached from the A22 (E45 ) via the SS242 or from the Sella. If approaching from the Sella you can take the Gardena Pass (SS243 ) from Corvara or the Sella Pass (SS242 ) from Canazei. Once in Selva follow signs for 'Vallunga' - the valley should become obvious as you get nearer. The car park at the head of the valley gets very busy in peak season and it is advisable to arrive early. There is a charge for parking.
From the car park, follow the large footpath up the valley for 50m and take the left fork at the first path junction. Continue on this path, which enters the trees and starts to steepen, for just under a kilometre until you see a smaller path leading off left towards the base of the rock walls. Follow this and the start of the route, marked with a series of red arrows, should become visible on the left. Some easy scrambling brings you to the start of the wire.
VF - From the start it becomes apparent that this is a new route with excellent wire. Since it is new, there is the occasional loose section but these are cleaning up nicely because of the number of people climbing it. Follow the wire upwards for 40 minutes or so until you come to a large grass shelf and the end of the first section of wire. The path zig-zags up to the next section of wire and is easy to follow.
The next section of wire provides the best climbing and increasingly spectacular views out over Vallunga, Val de Chedul and the Cir Group. After a further 20 minutes or so there is a particularly photogenic traverse rightwards followed by an entertaining ladder/bridge!? Continue upwards after the horizontal ladder, heading for the large corner dominated by another series of ladders. Climb these to a well-placed bench and the summit book in a small cave. Another 20m of climbing past this brings you to grassy meadows at the top and a stunning vista. From here follow the path uphill to Rifugio Stevia which should be visible from the top of the route. The rifugio does excellent food and is well worth a visit.
Descent - From Rifugio Stevia, you have a number of options. The quickest way back to Selva is to follow path 17 west until you join the 17a back down to the valley floor. From there path 26 takes you back to the car park.
For a long and very scenic day, you can turn right heading uphill on path 17 but remember, you need to be at Rifugio Stevia no later than midday to complete the trip in daylight. The path goes north then east leading up to the summit of Col da la Pieres (2747m). From the summit, continue on the path following the ridge-line until you join up with path 2. Turn right on path 2 still contouring along the ridge-line with some brief sections of easy wire. At Munt de Puez you have the choice of taking path 16 back down into Vallunga or continuing on to Rifugio Puez. If you choose the latter, path 14 drops you back down into the valley. Once back in Vallunga simply follow any of the paths back to the car park. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A fantastic new VF snaking its way up the steep valley wall.

Approach: Start at the car park next to cafe La Ciajota, at the W end of the Vallunga valley, just E of Selva in Val Gardena [1700m alt.]. From the car park, follow a gravelly track into the Vallunga pastures, bearing L at the first fork up through the pine woods. After about 20 minutes, turn L of the track beside a small cairn, and follow the path up through the trees to the foot of the cliffs. On your right is the cableway used by the Rifugio Stevia.

Route: Start at the foot of the rocky rib on the L. Scramble up a few metres to the start of the cable, then follow the steep rib on good rock with polished holds, followed by a short steep section on rungs, then a ladder. A comfortable grassy ledge leads L to the next section, where after a few very exposed moves the angle eases and a wooded slope is reached [1 h]. Walk easily past a dead pine to the next steep rocks, and after about 10 mins follow the cable L then back R in a steep and exposed position. After a short ladder bridge, climb a short wall and move up and L towards a steep corner. Climb the corner then a ladder to a ledge with a logbook. Finish to the L and exit onto grassy meadows [2 1/2h]. An obvious path leads to the Rifugio Stevia [2312m].

Descent:Follow path 17 [signposted to Selva] the after 20 mins branch L along path 17A and follow this steeply down zigzags through the forest. At a crossroads go L [this is path 26 but signs are not obvious] and contour round below steep cliffs until the car park can be glimpsed to the R. Turn R at a rock painted "Bar" and return to the car park.

Map: Tabacco 07 (1:25000) Alta Badia-Arabba-Marmolada

Photo: VF Sandro Pertini © noteviljoe
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Did not start more like! Cable and pins have been removed.
embob - Solo dnf - 18/Jun/15 with Alex, Pa

Outstanding VF. Great exposure and fun vertical climbing in the top section.
LauraChilterns - 23/Sep/14

purplemushroom - 23/Sep/14 with Ben Wetherill

centurion05 - 10/Sep/14

Giles Eperon - 07/Sep/14 with Charlie Wilson, Alex Eperon, felicity eperon

Marti999 - 04/Sep/14 with Debbie

kirky_p - 31/Aug/14

Hidden - 31/Jul/14

Hidden - 11/Jul/14

Final sections were really good fun. Exposed traverses and a long(ish) steep corner to finish. Excellent protection
wjcdean - 09/Jul/14 with Adam Bird, Trevers

Not too tricky although there were some quite pumpy pull ups on the cable.
BStar - 09/Jul/14 with Trevers, Will Dean

Hauled on cables all the way
Trevers - 09/Jul/14 with BStar, wjcdean

A perfect VF, some great sections and the exposure was brilliant. One of the best I've been on!
IamAJMiller - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/13 with rch3l

vikx85 - 26/Jul/13

jhobbs - 02/Jul/13 with Richard Harvey

Harvdog - 02/Jul/13 with John Hobbs

Hidden - Jul/13

Ade7 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Sam C

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/13

Gary A S - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Solo - 27/Dec/12

Pompey - 28/Sep/12 with JP

JonnoP - 28/Sep/12 with Caroline Larkman

Hidden - 06/Sep/12

Monkey_Alan - 06/Sep/12 with Collett's Mountain Holidays

Part of a massive snake of people inching up the route!
mike_hough_uk - 06/Sep/12 with chri55ie

chri55ie - 06/Sep/12 with Mike Hough

zoeimogen - 10/Aug/12

JamesRich - 26/Jul/12 with Karen Rich, Howard Rich, Paul Rich

Hidden - 19/Jul/12

After heavy rain so no style points for ascent!
prog99 - 13/Jul/12 with Fiona

A bit slippery thanks to the morning downpour but well worth it for the delicious strudel at the Stevia Hutte.
Fiona Reid - 13/Jul/12 with Mike

Steep! our first of the week! a really good VF
Fiskavaig - Solo - 07/Jul/12 with Steve Bridg, Paul R

noteviljoe - 22/Jun/12

Neil Metcalfe101 - 05/Jun/12 with Andy Beal, Lesley Beal, Loraine Rowan, Andy Odger

Ellie79 - 21/Aug/11 with Andy Odger, Miles Doughty, Katie H

Hidden - 06/Aug/11

Fun route. Very exposed but the climbing is on good holds and the protection is modern and well done. Amazing views to be had. Unlike some VFs, this has no "muppet filter" at the start - it doesn't earn its grade until towards the end, with an excellent steep bridging pitch. Very busy when we did it.
sarahlizzy - 31/Jul/11 with Syv

Good well protected route. Finishes near an excellent hut with home baking and fresh milk.
prog99 - 13/Jul/11 with Fiona

Very nice, nothing too hard. The Stevia Hut does very nice cake!
Fiona Reid - 13/Jul/11 with Mike

Hidden - 13/Jul/11

Geoffers - 09/Jul/11 with Lauren

Headjamm - 09/Jul/11 with Geoffers

Griff87 - Jul/11

syv_k - Jul/11 with sarahlizzy

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11

Hidden - 18/Jun/11

Griff87 - Jun/11

rch3l - Solo - Mar/11

Hidden - 09/Sep/10

Dave Foster - Sep/10 with Laura, Elena, Ross, Sandra

jubolo - 14/Jul/10 with batts, craig

Hidden - 02/Jul/10

Hidden - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - 13/Jun/10

AxelF - Jun/10 with Jeff Ashton

Hidden - 01/Aug/09

Hidden - 01/Aug/09

beardy mike - 2007 with Many

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

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