Rockfax Description
Superb climbing. Follow a crack and groove left of an arete. There is a tricky move near the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 21.9.94. Named after a young American boy whose father started ROCKFAX many years ago. 21/Sep/1994

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Portland.

JackMac 25/Oct Lead rpt
with James
dansimkin 17/Oct Lead rpt
with Rebecca Knill
Montecore 08/Oct -
richiebongo 03/Oct Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
dansimkin 19/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep Lead
tom_lewis89 03/Sep Lead O/S
with Katie Arnold
Gloria 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Bekah Ryder, Tim Beeston
Hidden 29/Aug Lead dog
Steve27 21/Aug Lead
Ed Houghton 08/Aug Lead O/S


martin one 01/Aug Lead O/S
with Chris day
Hidden 01/Aug Lead
philhaigh 17/Jul Lead rpt
with Quiti Kites, Jon Casado, Natalie Haigh
marcduhig 11/Jul Lead O/S
with Andrew
Hidden 04/Jul -
Benzo 19/Jun 2nd dog
with Ric
RichyBOYY 18/Jun Lead O/S
with Ben M
philhaigh 07/Jun Lead rpt
with Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Jane Weir, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
simonsnake77 28/May 2nd dog

Struggled, panicked, got flash pumped and generally dragged myself up this climb one clip at a time using all the strength of will I had. Pretty much hated every second. I always seem to struggle on my first climb of a session and this was no exception, was proud of myself for battling through the fear and going on to climb the next three 6as to the right of this line. Will be back....

JUSTADUDE 25/May Lead rpt
professorcobra 24/May Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 24/May Lead O/S
drewish 23/May Lead O/S

Not sure why its Top50 but still good.

with Chris
Hidden 16/May Lead O/S
tash 16/May Lead O/S
with ali k
David Staples 12/May TR O/S
Hidden 12/May Lead O/S
hankyc 04/May Lead O/S

Really cool place, big waves crashing at our backs!! Eek

Hidden 16/Apr Lead dog
Nick_Merriman 14/Apr Lead
with Bill Spittall
Hidden 25/Mar TR
Hidden 22/Mar Lead O/S
AJ007 22/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar Lead dog
chris_woodsy ?/Mar Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Not a true onsight as i'd seen the photo in Rockfax but i'm taking it anyway! Awesome climbing, I found it the easiest of the 4 but i thats mainly as it suits my style...

philhaigh 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Fi Marlow, Mike Gubbins, Natalie Haigh
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jackwd 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Robertson, Stuart Webster, Scott
herrettscott 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Montecore 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Ray
Nick Clement 09/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
BIgYeti86 03/Aug/14 Lead
Martin Bagshaw 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
Dizz 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mick cook
Gem Minihan 17/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Phil Haigh
Nick Russell 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Sustained and varied, overall a pretty good route. Shame the first clip is hard, and it's a bit sandy in places.

with Emily
Emily 12/Jul/14 2nd dog

Good climbing but definitely not a warm-up for me. Fell off a lot, started to manage to string a few moves together somewhere near the top!

with Nick
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
robbo99 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

great route, worth the walk

drcorbasisgod 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pymn nice but dim 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Not as good as i'd hoped

ConstaBern 17/Jun/14 Lead
JUSTADUDE 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice 6a.

shane4747 17/Jun/14 TR dog
skippington 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 20/May/14 Lead dog
jopayne1988 18/May/14 Lead dog

First bolt seems rather high - perhaps some of the ledge had fallen away? First half of route nothing special - second half is lovely.

Tom Penrose 18/May/14 Lead dog

Bottom half really greasy, but top section shows why this is a top50 in the Dorset Rockfax!

Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
dbrooks 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with John
Matt Smith 23/Nov/13 Lead dog

Slipped right at the top mantling on bird crap.

John Tanner 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S
richardashe 17/Oct/13 Lead β
dobby 200 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Gyles, Jo
tiffanykate12 06/Oct/13 2nd
jopayne1988 06/Oct/13 -
Steve27 07/Sep/13 TR
tomB 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Juliette
BenL 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
bobstones 20/Aug/13 TR dog
Bern 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Andy, Kev
Ian MK 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Wayne Murphy
chancer 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
farley-hulse89 20/Jul/13 Lead dog
philhaigh 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mat Affourtit, Trev Ford, Rob Gates, Vicki Hau, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan, Matt Ridgway, Natalie Haigh
trev_f 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Dorset gang
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 25/May/13 2nd dog
Adam Booth 25/May/13 Lead O/S
JackMac 27/Oct/12 Lead

Hands were so cold I had to come down and warmup before finishing! A nice climb but nothing special IMO.

brew_guru 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Not that impressed

Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Helen Gibson 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with dan
Rupey 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with alan
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead
AlexD 23/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Ed
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead β
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
Anastasia 27/May/12 TR O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead
Marti999 01/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Fiona Marlow
plilley 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ian Rao
tom106 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with laura
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 17/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with rupe
Ducks Rock 10/Jul/11 TR


with Harry
Tim M 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Phil T
el_monty 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Harry
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 10/Apr/11 TR
with Sean
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
JWB 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S


ripper 26/Sep/10 Lead
with Chris Warby
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Didymus 08/Aug/10 Lead dog

Spanked by the warm up!

with Marcus
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt
feilx 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with jon biddle
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
ripper ??/2010 Lead

really interesting, varied route - start was a bit spicy though

with Chris Warby
LiLaMont 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan
dan gibson 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
AlexD 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 08/Aug/09 Lead

nice line.don't think these are 'the best midgrade climbs on portland' or whatever rockfax say though.

vertigo 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Dandan82 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Chris
Jus 11/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead rpt
steve taylor 09/May/09 -
with Steve Williams
davewing 11/Apr/09 TR
with Lee
clipskipper 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, even though I missed the massive RH hold!

with Dave Wing
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/08 Lead
trev_f 30/May/08 Lead O/S
with Alex M
Hidden 16/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/07 -
Scott N ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 14/Jul/06 Lead
with mart
bigie bob 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 07/May/06 Lead O/S
with Tony Seale
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Wilbur 30/Apr/06 Lead RP
with Morgan
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Bux ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
timharrison ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/05 Lead O/S
MikeC59 28/May/05 Lead
Bargate_Champ ??/2005 Lead O/S
aged_ape ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Rob B
jl 07/Apr/04 Lead RP
with Rachel
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 17/Aug/03 Lead
with Bruce
_m.cox_ 17/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Hidden 21/Mar/03 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 21/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with dean howard
furry 05/Oct/02 TR
with Phil B
John Southworth ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
phardman 30/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Mark Kemball 14/Oct/01 Lead O/S
with Nic Dill
Hidden 26/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1995 Lead

Approx date

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dsefton1403, AshleyLong, James Yearsley, Ed Houghton, Hidden, Hidden, georgel, chris_woodsy, joshchalke, Hidden, Daniel Wrightson, Warren Earle
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set