Devon > Berry Head (The Old Redoubt) >
 
Pikadon HVS 5a

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Goddess of Gloom >>
[The correct line of Pikadon (HVS 5a) at Berry Head , 3 kb]70m, 3 pitches. Checkout the topo which corrects the line of pitch 1 in the South Devon and Dartmoor guide. Little sound clean climbing exists after pitch one where it becomes bolder than HVS and may be a candidate for XS 5a. Pitch 1 - Strike out diagonally leftwards from the start of Goddess of Gloom to the overhanging bulge. Break out right along a rising hand ledge towards the corner. Climb diagonally left to a nut belay (just adequate) as for Melinda.
Peter Biven and Frank Cannings 03/Oct/1967

Photo: The correct line of Pikadon (HVS 5a) at Berry Head © Kafoozalem
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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Had an epic. I think the photo topo in Nick White's guide puts the start too far right -- certainly not 4C if you go over the 4ft roof. Nick White's topo then sends you out right to a belay on the shale band. I could not find a belay and had to press on to the belay of Goddess. We escaped up Moonraker in the rain and dark.
Kafoozalem - Lead dnf - 04/Oct/09 with Tony Hopkins

What a route! Started as per the guide and from then on it was stressvile.Twisted ropes, loose rocks,dirty greasy holds,gifts left by the nesting birds and a lot of it.Had to quit route and traverse through Goodess into Moonraker.Finished in the dark and drissle.It did feel good to be alive when we got to the top.
Popkids - 2nd dnf - 04/Oct/09 with Pete Saunders

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hard E10 of 1
E10 of 1
easy E11 of 1
hard HVS0 of 1
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hard 5a0 of 1
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