|500m, 19 pitches. |
A huge and varied outing with 18 equipped pitches on great rock and the ridge-scramble to finish. The route is approached by descending under the face and then making a 45m abseil to a large ledge where a clean sweep of slab (bolts!) is located - to the right of where a grassy ramp runs up left towards the East Arete. It is possible to escape right on to Aytolé at several places and abseil down this if required.
1) 5, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 5+, 5) 6b, 6) 6a, 7) 6a, 8) 5+, 9) 4, 10) 5+, 11) 5+, 12) 6a, 13) 6b, 14) 6a, 15) 5+, 16) 5, 17) 3+, 18) 4. Finish along the exposed arete (150m+, moves of 2 and 3 ) to reach the summit. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Allow 6.5 hours
Jean-Denis Achard é Gérard Pouliquen Jul/2001
Photo: Crux moves on crux pitch; Dent d'Orlu (Ariége) © LeeWood
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This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Really nice and demanding route with stunning views and loads of eagles flying around the mountain. The 6b pitch is really hard with a rucksack on! Resorted to French freeing on it.
Lead in blocks: Chris P1-5, me P6-9: Chris P10-11 (escape traverse into Aytole).
Escape down Aytole in 4 abseils.
francois - AltLd dnf - 10/Sep/11 with Catherine, Chris
Fantastic climbing on some lovely rock. A nice mix of of climbing on slabs, cracks and the occasional overhang. Was pleased with my attempt at the F6b+ overhang - not clean (did it on 3rd go), but did not aid it. Lead it blocks, me pitch 1-5, Francois P6-9, me 10-11 (escaped onto Aytole by traversing across from pitch 11 - descended in 4 abseils).
Wildlife was amazing - 7 eagles were circling around us eyeing up the marmots hopping around the rocks at the base of the route! Great"
BelayBunney - AltLd dnf - 10/Sep/11 with Catherine, Francois
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 10/Sep/11
Hidden - AltLd RP - 27/Jun/11
Consistent climbing at a high level. Mainly slabby but with occasional diedre and overhang which break monotony. All led O/S ex the awkward 6b problem on L5. NB. TD+
LeeWood - AltLd β - 27/Jun/11