|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Mostly very good conditions with squeaky neve and bits of ice (though only one or two screws placed). Alex led P1 and moved together for may be 20m as there was no in situ belay (hidden under the recent snow?). He made his own belay and I took over, going past a fixed belay about 15m higher - presumably this was the belay at the top of P2. I carried on and with a bit of moving together got to the next fixed belay (a little way above the ice screw in a crack runner mentioned below). Alex did the next pitch, which was meant to be the traverse left but this was very thinly iced, so He opted to finish up Le temps est assissin. This featured a thinly iced slabby traverse right! About V 6 and the crux in the day, the rest of the route was around III and IV with some easier ground. Moving up after the traverse, Alex got to a bolt belay overlooking the Chere. I did the last pitch from there, starting with a thinly iced slab which provided a few technical moves, moving into an easy goulotte higher up and then an easy snow slope traverse to the tat belay at the top of the steepe section of the Chere. Moved together on this pitch as well. So we did it in four but would be at least six pitches if fully pitched. Four hours up and 45 minutes to an down. Good route on a nice day but we were in the shade except for the top of the last pitch and I really struggled with cold hands seconding P1. Got hot aches at the belay and was ok after that. Last route of the trip, nothing major but a nice finish.
Finished up Le Temps est Assassin as the leftwards traverse was desperately thin. Rightwards traverse on LTeA was barely in condition, thin and technical. Probably about Scottish V 6 today.
Climbed first 4 or so pitches then the ice ran out and it all got a bit burley for us so headed down for pastures new.
Bloody hard, Scottish VI the leader reckoned with hip scumming torqueing lay backs the lot. One bit of insitu pro was an ice screw hammered into a crack which gives an idea of the sort of lateral thinking that gone on with this bugger.
Climbed a line closer to German Assasins, with some rather tasty mixed pitches.
Micheal Haywood, Danny Barden
Another try and got higher up but we both agreed that it was not in condition so bailed.
Backed of for some reason.
Too thin, backed off
With Andy Owen, combined with temps est assassin
Finshed up steeper corner above, VI 6 scottish