Rockfax Description
II, 205m, 4 - 5 hours. An excellent route which is rarely in perfect condition and is often tougher than the grade suggests.
1) I, 45m. Climb the snow slope easily to a belay on the left.
2) 4, 45m. Follow the superb gully to a block belay.
3) 2, 20m. The angle kicks back above the belay and relatively moderate snow/ice leads to a belay at the foot of a right-leaning ramp.
4) 5, 45m. Follow the ramp and then climb the steep, icy chimney above (crux).
5) 3, 30m. Make a long traverse left across easier ground to reach moderate mixed terrain.
From here, either abseil the route, or continue up the mixed ground, via the odd steep step, to reach the top of the Chéré Couloir. Finish up or down this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Ephemeral line that occasionally goes thick in winter. Starts 40m left of the Chere and runs parallel to it following thin runnels and corners.


ClimberDateStyle
Rob Pitt 01/Jul AltLd dnf

Thin & rotten ice. Stuff falling down it as the sun hit the top. Abbed off after 3rd pitch.

with Lou
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 31/Oct/15 -
Suzana 30/Oct/15 Lead dnf

OS, dry conditions on last pitch. We escaped right to Perroux for one more pitch and then abed down.

with Agnieszka Wilkon
Hidden 21/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/15 AltLd
Misha 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Mostly very good conditions with squeaky neve and bits of ice (though only one or two screws placed). Alex led P1 and moved together for may be 20m as there was no in situ belay (hidden under the recent snow?). He made his own belay and I took over, going past a fixed belay about 15m higher - presumably this was the belay at the top of P2. I carried on and with a bit of moving together got to the next fixed belay (a little way above the ice screw in a crack runner mentioned below). Alex did the next pitch, which was meant to be the traverse left but this was very thinly iced, so He opted to finish up Le temps est assissin. This featured a thinly iced slabby traverse right! About V 6 and the crux in the day, the rest of the route was around III and IV with some easier ground. Moving up after the traverse, Alex got to a bolt belay overlooking the Chere. I did the last pitch from there, starting with a thinly iced slab which provided a few technical moves, moving into an easy goulotte higher up and then an easy snow slope traverse to the tat belay at the top of the steepe section of the Chere. Moved together on this pitch as well. So we did it in four but would be at least six pitches if fully pitched. Four hours up and 45 minutes to an down. Good route on a nice day but we were in the shade except for the top of the last pitch and I really struggled with cold hands seconding P1. Got hot aches at the belay and was ok after that. Last route of the trip, nothing major but a nice finish.

with Alex
alexm198 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Finished up Le Temps est Assassin as the leftwards traverse was desperately thin. Rightwards traverse on LTeA was barely in condition, thin and technical. Probably about Scottish V 6 today.

paulmck 19/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Neil Johnston
DigitalSteak 27/Sep/14 AltLd dnf

Climbed first 4 or so pitches then the ice ran out and it all got a bit burley for us so headed down for pastures new.

augustus trout 04/Sep/14 2nd

Bloody hard, Scottish VI the leader reckoned with hip scumming torqueing lay backs the lot. One bit of insitu pro was an ice screw hammered into a crack which gives an idea of the sort of lateral thinking that gone on with this bugger.

Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead
Ken Applegate 08/Aug/14 AltLd

Climbed a line closer to German Assasins, with some rather tasty mixed pitches.

with Steve
stanleynkk ?/Jul/14 Lead
with Micheal Haywood, Danny Barden
zcsharp 20/Jun/14 2nd dnf

Another try and got higher up but we both agreed that it was not in condition so bailed.

with Al
zcsharp 17/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Backed of for some reason.

with Al
Hidden 06/May/14 Lead
fulton333 ?/May/14 Lead
with Johnny
Gumery ?/May/14 2nd
with Grant
wi11 09/Oct/13 AltLd dnf

Too thin, backed off

with Stephen
AdamCB ?/Jun/13 -

With Andy Owen, combined with temps est assassin

Dave Searle 01/Jul/11 Lead

Finshed up steeper corner above, VI 6 scottish

Hidden 07/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden 05/Apr/05 -
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