60m, 3 pitches.
NEWLY CLEANED AND RE-ROUTED 2014.
Inclined to be dirty with some rock which needs careful handling. Adequate protection can be arranged with a big rack of cams and nuts. A pre-placed belay rope would make for a more pleasant exit. Start 12m L of Pikadon's sea washed ledge at a rounded overhanging rib.
1. 17m 4c Climb the wall for 5m, then pull up L to swing into balance on the wall above. Climb direct to a thread (new 2014) and nut belay beneath overhangs.
2. 43m 5a Move up left to beneath the higher roof and bypass it via the wall to the R. Move back L above the roof to a crack system. Follow this, moving R to its continuation. Escape the small cave by bridging up onto the right wall and finish up the short groove above to grass ledges and a cam 3.5 belay. Scramble up grass gullies to the top.
Pat Littlejohn & Charles Wand-Tetley 04/Oct/1970