The Great Escape*** 6c
30m, 2 pitches. An atmospheric traverse. Unfortunately the boulder beach has dropped and the start is not possible at the present time. 1) 6c, 15m. Climb the pocketed wall above the roof, then traverse left along the lip to a hanging stance near the arete. 2) 6c, 15m. Continue traversing left around the arete, then trend upwards to a large square block. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mike Robertson 19/Mar/1994

Ticklists: 3 Star Portland.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Rob Kennard - 2007

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

As is now well known, the beach has since gone down. We didn't know this until we'd abbed down and I'd pulled our rope. The only way I could see to gain the route from the beach was up the overhanging crack/groove to the right then out left on crozzly breaks to the bolts. I was planning on using chockstones in the crack as we only had extenders but was talked out of it. It could've been anything between HVS and E4 (trusting rockfax guidebooks to be thoroughly researched is a silly thing to do). After trying to rope up and swim out (!) somebody kindly hauled secured our rope for us to ascend.
Paz - Lead dnf - 04/Sep/05 with RJ

kp64zl - 2nd - Jul/97 with David Pickford

buzby78 - Lead O/S - 26/May/96

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