A nice route with a fairly sound finish. Start at a steep wall below a big roof in the middle of the seaward face of Valkyrie Buttress.1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the steep wall - towards the left side of the buttress - and pass the roof on its left. Bold climbing follows, up and slightly right, to a good belay ledge.2) 4c, 18m. From the middle of the ledge, climb up leftwards to an overhung ledge and mantelshelf onto it. Continue straight up a good crack to a reasonable finish and belay on the fence posts. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
start below a big roof in the middle of the seaward facing side of Valkyrie Buttress. A nice route with a fairly sound finish.
1 - 5a climb up the step wall, towards the left side of the Buttress. Pass the roof on it's left corner. bold climbing follows up and slightly right to a good ledge. 2 pegs and Nut Belay on ledge.
2 - 4c from the center of the ledge climb up and left, past the left peg. Make an awkward Mantle to gain a ledge with small overlap above. Continue straight up good crack with loose spike to a reasonable finish and belay of the fence posts.
R C White, B Wood 21/May/1967
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Russell Lovett||??/2015||2nd O/S||
Climbed early 1980,s
Tim Dunsby, Nigel Coe, Pete Oxley,
|Cheese Monkey||26/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
Felt more like 4c,5a. First pitch was great, didnt feel at all bold above the roof. Second pitch had some dodgy rock and gear, plus a delicate finish!
|Ian Miller||26/Sep/14||2nd O/S|
VERY loose at the top!
I lead pitch 2, probably went off route trying to weave a way up the most stable rock. A lot of the rock in this area is loose or atleast vibrates when hit / is wobbly. The top out is disgusting for all routes and I would advice a preplaced rope to aid the top out!
Snapped a hold off on first pitch, loose and dangerous at the moment especially the top pit off Valkyrie which we traversed into to top out. Some big blocks at the top waiting to come down, be delicate or you may come down with them or avoid this route at the moment
|Graham Westbrook||28/Sep/12||AltLd O/S|
|Ed Babs||11/Aug/12||AltLd O/S||
Section above the roof is listed as Bold, but there wasn't that much gear below the roof either. First pitch better than second
Led P1, 2nd P2. Glorious day - T-shirts in January!
Led 2nd pitch.
lead 1st pitch, Alan second pitch