Valkyrie Buttress Direct** HVS 5a
[Monkey_Alan climbing first pitch belayed by Tom Thorne, 3 kb]2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A nice route with a fairly sound finish. Start at a steep wall below a big roof in the middle of the seaward face of Valkyrie Buttress.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the steep wall - towards the left side of the buttress - and pass the roof on its left. Bold climbing follows, up and slightly right, to a good belay ledge.
2) 4c, 18m. From the middle of the ledge, climb up leftwards to an overhung ledge and mantelshelf onto it. Continue straight up a good crack to a reasonable finish and belay on the fence posts. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
start below a big roof in the middle of the seaward facing side of Valkyrie Buttress. A nice route with a fairly sound finish.
1 - 5a climb up the step wall, towards the left side of the Buttress. Pass the roof on it's left corner. bold climbing follows up and slightly right to a good ledge. 2 pegs and Nut Belay on ledge.
2 - 4c from the center of the ledge climb up and left, past the left peg. Make an awkward Mantle to gain a ledge with small overlap above. Continue straight up good crack with loose spike to a reasonable finish and belay of the fence posts.

R C White, B Wood 21/May/1967

Photo: Monkey_Alan climbing first pitch belayed by Tom Thorne © risby
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This climb is in 18 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Felt more like 4c,5a. First pitch was great, didnt feel at all bold above the roof. Second pitch had some dodgy rock and gear, plus a delicate finish!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/14 with Ian M

Ian Miller - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/14 with Ben Darby

VERY loose at the top!
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Curly Stevo

I lead pitch 2, probably went off route trying to weave a way up the most stable rock. A lot of the rock in this area is loose or atleast vibrates when hit / is wobbly. The top out is disgusting for all routes and I would advice a preplaced rope to aid the top out!
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 30/Aug/14 with clipskipper

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/14

Snapped a hold off on first pitch, loose and dangerous at the moment especially the top pit off Valkyrie which we traversed into to top out. Some big blocks at the top waiting to come down, be delicate or you may come down with them or avoid this route at the moment
climbtim - 2nd - 24/Jun/14 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Lee Mercer

Section above the roof is listed as Bold, but there wasn't that much gear below the roof either. First pitch better than second
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Ed Babington

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with James Richardson

risby - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Alan Blanchflower, Tom Thorne

Led P1, 2nd P2. Glorious day - T-shirts in January!
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 30/Jan/11 with Tom Thorne, Ris Wright

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Led 2nd pitch.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Frodo Stickel

lead 1st pitch, Alan second pitch
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Alan B

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 29/Jun/86 with Frank Farrell

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Total votes cast 20
hard E10 of 7
E10 of 7
easy E10 of 7
hard HVS0 of 7
HVS7 of 7
easy HVS0 of 7
hard VS0 of 7
VS0 of 7
easy VS0 of 7
hard 5b0 of 7
5b0 of 7
easy 5b0 of 7
hard 5a0 of 7
5a6 of 7
easy 5a1 of 7
hard 4c0 of 7
4c0 of 7
easy 4c0 of 7
3 Stars0 of 6
2 Stars4 of 6
1 Star2 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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