|Valkyrie Buttress Direct||HVS 5a|
|2 pitches. A nice route with a fairly sound finish. Start at a steep wall below a big roof in the middle of the seaward face of Valkyrie Buttress.|
1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the steep wall - towards the left side of the buttress - and pass the roof on its left. Bold climbing follows, up and slightly right, to a good belay ledge.
2) 4c, 18m. From the middle of the ledge, climb up leftwards to an overhung ledge and mantelshelf onto it. Continue straight up a good crack to a reasonable finish and belay on the fence posts. © ROCKFAX
start below a big roof in the middle of the seaward facing side of Valkyrie Buttress. A nice route with a fairly sound finish. 1 - 5a climb up the step wall, towards the left side of the Buttress. Pass the roof on it's left corner. bold climbing follows up and slightly right to a good ledge. 2 pegs and Nut Belay on ledge. 2 - 4c from the center of the ledge climb up and left, past the left peg. Make an awkward Mantle to gain a ledge with small overlap above. Continue straight up good crack with loose spike to a reasonable finish and belay of the fence posts.
R C White, B Wood 21/May/1967
Photo: Monkey_Alan climbing first pitch belayed by Tom Thorne © risby