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Valkyrie Buttress Direct* HVS 5a

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[Monkey_Alan climbing first pitch belayed by Tom Thorne, 3 kb]2 pitches. A nice route with a fairly sound finish. Start at a steep wall below a big roof in the middle of the seaward face of Valkyrie Buttress. 1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the steep wall - towards the left side of the buttress - and pass the roof on its left. Bold climbing follows, up and slightly right, to a good belay ledge. 2) 4c, 18m. From the middle of the ledge, climb up leftwards to an overhung ledge and mantelshelf onto it. Continue straight up a good crack to a reasonable finish and belay on the fence posts. © ROCKFAX
start below a big roof in the middle of the seaward facing side of Valkyrie Buttress. A nice route with a fairly sound finish. 1 - 5a climb up the step wall, towards the left side of the Buttress. Pass the roof on it's left corner. bold climbing follows up and slightly right to a good ledge. 2 pegs and Nut Belay on ledge. 2 - 4c from the center of the ledge climb up and left, past the left peg. Make an awkward Mantle to gain a ledge with small overlap above. Continue straight up good crack with loose spike to a reasonable finish and belay of the fence posts.
R C White, B Wood 21/May/1967

Photo: Monkey_Alan climbing first pitch belayed by Tom Thorne © risby
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12

P2
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Lee Mercer

Section above the roof is listed as Bold, but there wasn't that much gear below the roof either. First pitch better than second
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Ed Babington

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with James Richardson

risby - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Alan Blanchflower, Tom Thorne

Led P1, 2nd P2. Glorious day - T-shirts in January!
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 30/Jan/11 with Tom Thorne, Ris Wright

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Led 2nd pitch.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Frodo Stickel

lead 1st pitch, Alan second pitch
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Alan B

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 29/Jun/86 with Frank Farrell

Voting
Total votes cast 20
hard E10 of 7
E10 of 7
easy E10 of 7
hard HVS0 of 7
HVS7 of 7
easy HVS0 of 7
hard VS0 of 7
VS0 of 7
easy VS0 of 7
hard 5b0 of 7
5b0 of 7
easy 5b0 of 7
hard 5a0 of 7
5a6 of 7
easy 5a1 of 7
hard 4c0 of 7
4c0 of 7
easy 4c0 of 7
3 Stars0 of 6
2 Stars4 of 6
1 Star2 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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