2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A nice route with a fairly sound finish. Start at a steep wall below a big roof in the middle of the seaward face of Valkyrie Buttress.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the steep wall - towards the left side of the buttress - and pass the roof on its left. Bold climbing follows, up and slightly right, to a good belay ledge.
2) 4c, 18m. From the middle of the ledge, climb up leftwards to an overhung ledge and mantelshelf onto it. Continue straight up a good crack to a reasonable finish and belay on the fence posts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
start below a big roof in the middle of the seaward facing side of Valkyrie Buttress. A nice route with a fairly sound finish.
1 - 5a climb up the step wall, towards the left side of the Buttress. Pass the roof on it's left corner. bold climbing follows up and slightly right to a good ledge. 2 pegs and Nut Belay on ledge.
2 - 4c from the center of the ledge climb up and left, past the left peg. Make an awkward Mantle to gain a ledge with small overlap above. Continue straight up good crack with loose spike to a reasonable finish and belay of the fence posts.

R C White, B Wood 21/May/1967

Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S

Climbed early 1980,s

with Tim Dunsby, Nigel Coe, Pete Oxley,
Cheese Monkey 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Felt more like 4c,5a. First pitch was great, didnt feel at all bold above the roof. Second pitch had some dodgy rock and gear, plus a delicate finish!

with Ian M
Ian Miller 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S
clipskipper 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

VERY loose at the top!

CurlyStevo 30/Aug/14 AltLd

I lead pitch 2, probably went off route trying to weave a way up the most stable rock. A lot of the rock in this area is loose or atleast vibrates when hit / is wobbly. The top out is disgusting for all routes and I would advice a preplaced rope to aid the top out!

with clipskipper
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead rpt
climbtim 24/Jun/14 2nd

Snapped a hold off on first pitch, loose and dangerous at the moment especially the top pit off Valkyrie which we traversed into to top out. Some big blocks at the top waiting to come down, be delicate or you may come down with them or avoid this route at the moment

Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


clipskipper 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Section above the roof is listed as Bold, but there wasn't that much gear below the roof either. First pitch better than second

with Ed Babington
Marti999 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
risby 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 30/Jan/11 AltLd rpt

Led P1, 2nd P2. Glorious day - T-shirts in January!

Hidden 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

uncontrollable 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

lead 1st pitch, Alan second pitch

with Alan B
Nigel Coe 29/Jun/86 AltLd
with Frank Farrell
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Votes cast 7
High 5b
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