15 pitches. 15 pitches weaving up some steep territory of the North Face. Start from the left hand side of the Flying Buttress and head left towards the Chestman pinnacle.

The Chouinard-Herbert was first climbed in Aug. of 1962 by Yvon Chouinard and TM Herbert. Many consider the crux of the route to be the exposed approach, which has several pitches of roped (for most) climbing and tests route finding skills. All of that just to get to the start of the actual route.

The route has much moderate free climbing (5.10- or less) and the harder free sections can be aided at C1F. The aid crux is probably the 2nd roof on P11, but goes at C1 with Aliens.

Chouinard / Herbert 1962

Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd β
AdrianP 03/Oct/09 AltLd

6h 40min, french free, second jumarring... Allow 3 hours from Camp 4 to the base of the route. Getting to the base of the route is a bitch. Leave your bags before the 4th class approach up right. Approach as for Steck, but head up left from under the Flying buttress. You'll probably want to rope up if you take the gully we did... I would take 15-20 draws for all the fixed gear, yes really that many...

with Olli
keefe 10/Aug/85 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
High 5.11d
Mid 5.11d
Low 5.11d
High 5.11c
Mid 5.11c
Low 5.11c
High 5.11b
Mid 5.11b
Low 5.11b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2