Rockfax Description
The best pitch here up the blunt arete on its right-hand side. Tough at the top and requiring a long reach. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 31.8.97 31/Aug/1997

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

WilliamD 25/Oct Lead dnf

Fell off at the last move before anchors and inverted myself. Not a nice last move.

wyzfen 27/Sep TR dog

Easy lead to last clip, but needed top-rope for last move.

with Dana
danusiatycia 27/Sep TR
leglesslizard 06/Sep Lead RP
tomwright1509 28/Jul Lead β
SDM 18/Jul Lead dnf

Didn't work out/wouldn't commit to the final move

with Michael
Hidden 18/Jul TR dog
Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul Lead β
xiangoh ?/Jul Lead β
hervenuttall ?/Jul Lead O/S
with Doug
Hidden 06/Jun 2nd dnf
Rupey 04/May Lead RP
with alan
Hidden 04/May Lead β
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12/Apr Lead RP

Clip stick to the top and the final move is instantly worked out, bit thin for the feet but ok, maybe 6b?

with Dan, Pat, Rob Gates, Steph
Sam4242 06/Apr Lead dog
Dibdawg 05/Apr Lead dog

Nails finish and a choice of direction.

jamesb101 31/Jan Lead O/S
with Rob Saxton
RadekNowak 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 30/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Shamina Kapadia
Nick Russell 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Didn't find the last move too bad. Nor particularly reachy. Maybe I did something weird.

drcorbasisgod 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mattgrange 25/May/14 Lead dnf

Top moves reachy and quite blind,rather unnerving. Sweaty greasy conditions did not help!

Alex Winter 09/May/14 Lead O/S

Took me a while to figure out the top.

with Ben's stag
Cheese Monkey 09/May/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 09/May/14 TR dnf

Couldn't do the first loooong move of the crux headwall.

with Alex
kingborris ??/2014 -
BenL 24/Aug/13 Lead β
with Angus Webb
adamjeffs 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Uberpussy 10/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Great route, took a whipper after a few aborted attempts at top section, will be back to get this one clean.

Jonathan Emett 04/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Paul
philhaigh 18/Jul/13 Lead dog

The jug near the top seemed to lead me into a blind alley - then going left/direct was a bit reachy (on awful left foot).

with Shamina Kapadia
phardy 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Last move is scary and run out... took a couple of big falls but found nothing at the top to grab onto. Amazing (type 2) fun.

Stanners 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Absolute bollocks for your feet at the top, pretty much forced to campus the last move.

with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Rob Stanfield
JamesRich 23/Jun/13 TR dog
with Alex Rhodes, Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Jus 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 27/May/13 Lead β
Jobbo 04/May/13 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Top was way too run out with blind moves - not for me.

dprctr 09/Mar/13 Lead dog

Would have got this if the rain hadnt made the top crux crimp wet!

with Fiona McFarlane
chrisclimber ??/2013 -
Lyndsay Superclimber 08/Dec/12 Lead dnf

Onsighted it up until the last move. Then took a whipper trying to figure it out. Managed it on top rope later so I'll be back!

with Mark S
mark schramm 08/Dec/12 Lead dog

1 rest.

with Lyndsay
bradfry 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

easy 'til last sequence. You hope after the three crappy moves that you'll find a jug to get the last clip from - you won't.

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead β
jon_gill1 22/Sep/12 Lead dog

climbed to within a foot of the lower off but due to injury down climbed to final bolt and escaped left onto neighbouring route to lower off.

tomB 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jody
UnkArl 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Cracking route! Really pleased to get the onsight of this, after just doing Wedding Daze (6b). Got quite pumped on the steep first section, I went up the corner and Matt went straight up the face which maybe looked easier. There's a couple of good rests before you launch up the (completely different) top section which is pretty spicy!

with Matt
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead β

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climbing.

Ross.Cooper 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route :)

with Tom Sturgeon
adam 24 13/May/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 05/May/12 Lead rpt
Gambit 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Barney
Abi Chard 02/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Fell from last move - rope caught round leg and flipped upside down.

Hidden ?/Mar/12 TR
dale1968 11/Nov/11 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 11/Nov/11 Lead RP
will black 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
lewiz 08/Oct/11 Lead dog

Big fall run out at the top

jennym32 27/Aug/11 2nd dog

Much too hard for me to do clean - got mostly boosted over the overhang by Mark belaying!

with Mark Bown
Laurence Everitt 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 25/Jun/11 Lead dnf

last move felt hard again. boo.

with claudio, simon, ben
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead dnf
Steve27 13/May/11 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 24/Apr/11 Lead rpt

last move felt easy after a winter at the wall.

Gareth 23/Apr/11 Lead dog

Fell at last move, pleased and gutted as nearest i've got to 6c onsite. Good route.

with Mark
wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Nat
natalietanzer 17/Mar/11 Lead dog
with will
Kopinski 05/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Caspian Johnson 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 18/Sep/10 Lead dnf

couldn't work out the very last move.

with Lyndsay
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/Aug/10 TR O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf
keithpeck 16/May/10 Lead O/S

Being presented with that move at the end is harder to deal with than actually doing it.

SamuelHarris 16/May/10 TR dnf

Failed at the final move after moving out onto the arete.

ruaidh 15/May/10 Lead dnf

Really nice 6a+/6b climbing up to the last move, then - bam! - 6c. Couldn't make the last RH edge. I'll be back for you, sunshine.

with oli
GarethHall 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Ed Babs 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
dan gibson 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
A Downing 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Damian, Len, Gaz & Dan
HamishD 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with matt savage
breed 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/08 Lead O/S
vertigo 03/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead RP
PKR 10/Apr/08 Lead RP

Great Climb once you get the sequence.

Monk 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Felt reasonably easy but I'm only 5'7".

with Mandy
Richard Horn 18/Mar/08 Lead RP
Dandan82 ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Rich
chiverstom 11/Nov/07 Lead dog
with Ivo
spacey 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jo macey
JPGR 10/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Andy
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
cmsg 18/Jun/06 Lead dnf
with Vincent Lauffer
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/06 Lead dog
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
homing-penguin 25/Aug/04 Lead dog


goi.ashmore 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Hidden 26/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Kevster ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mr Tumness, Joe Black, Sebastien Gastaud
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High 6c
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High 6b+
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Votes cast 31
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set