UKC

Restricted Access

A roadside trad climbing venue with some quite adventurous routes, but its convenient roadside location makes a very useful venue for mid-Wales climbers. The crag is divided into three distinct buttresses - Eastern Face, Central Buttress and the Bastion.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The Eastern Face only is restricted due to nesting choughs, peregrines and cormorants. The crag is also located in a Special Protection Area for its avian assemblage. Climbers are also asked to avoid climbing here near to dusk as it's an important roosting site for choughs.

The routes on the Eastern Face are heavily vegetated and contain birds for most of the year and is probably best avoided altogether! Restrction here is from March 1st until July 31st inclusive.

Central Buttress - No restriction for 2018 

The main face - The Bastion is unaffected by the seasonal restriction.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 20/03/2018  

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8m. Start just right of the short right-hand gully. Ascend diagonally rightwards to finish at the highest point on the right-hand end of the crag.

Steve Muncaster FRA 21/Oct/2009.

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Pinky, Pitch 2. The dead tree.
Pinky

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns))

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